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Old 26 March 2007, 07:27   #1
kev
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Braked Trailers

I am looking to buy a new braked trailer for my 5.4 m Searider, I found that snipe and a few other types have flushing hubs ,does anyone have any experience of these ? I was keen on a hallmark roller coaster 1.3 but they dont do flushing hubs .
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Old 26 March 2007, 07:34   #2
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Kev, do you need a braked trailer, lot of hassle saved if you don't. Have you seen this:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...earider+weight

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Old 26 March 2007, 08:01   #3
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Hi Pete Ive had it on weighbridge and weighs 920 kg with twin 40 s and approx 50 ltr of fuel , its currently sitting on an old snipe R16 with brakes ,although no shoes or cables.
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Old 26 March 2007, 08:11   #4
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Feck thats heavy. The flushing stuff is just B&Q garden hose connectors so another option would be a new axle and a bit of DIY. Alternatively the axles De Graff fit have a hole in the drum so they just drill a matching hole in the wheel to line up.

http://www.degraafftrailers.co.uk/

Whilst your pondering the options have a think about bearings, sealed or tapered. A search on "Alko" might make your mind up for you.

Pete
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Old 26 March 2007, 10:58   #5
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Trailers, lower is better!

Just a thought! Look for a trailer that has the boat sitting as low as possible. This makes launching and recovery easier, that is, you don't need water so deep. Our De Graaf sits high and launching on a shallow slip is a nightmare.

Agree about the DIY solution to hub washing. The kits are jolly expensive for some bits of pipe and connectors. Drill the backplate and fit a hose connector. Don't drill anything that rotates, it will upset the wheel balance.
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Old 26 March 2007, 11:18   #6
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The brake flushing kit on my trailer consists of:

1) 1 barbed female hose connector
2) 1 L-bracket, bolted to the trailer frame (hose connector goes through, and the hose holds it in place)
3) about 10 or 12 feet of 1/2" plastic tubing
4) 1 T-connector for the tubing
5) 2 sprayer thingies of some type stuck through the backplate of the brake drums. I'd think just about anything would work; probably doesn't even have to have to have a spray pattern, as the stream will be defelected around by the drum.
6) assorted zip ties to hold everything together, and mount it to the frame.

I'd bet a resourceful person could rebuild the system for less than $20 and a visit to a home center.


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Old 26 March 2007, 15:38   #7
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Kev,
Not sure all Snipe trailers have a flushing kits. I have a brand new R17-1000 braked trailer which doesn't appear to have a flushing kit installed - not sure if it is an optional extra?
Let me know if you find one!
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Old 26 March 2007, 15:58   #8
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try this

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveboy 71 View Post
Kev,
Not sure all Snipe trailers have a flushing kits. I have a brand new R17-1000 braked trailer which doesn't appear to have a flushing kit installed - not sure if it is an optional extra?
Let me know if you find one!
Try these, I ordered one last month but have not fitted it to my trailer yet.

http://www.hubflush.com/

regards

Mark
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Old 26 March 2007, 17:25   #9
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65 for a bit of HEP and a few fittings??? Get down the plumbers' merchants instead.
Take a photo of the flush-kit with you and show it to the bloke behind the counter
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Old 29 March 2007, 11:53   #10
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I can't quite figure out from the picture what the actual spray fittings are. They look like standard Tap Connectors from the Hep2O catalogue. Does anyone know?
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Old 29 March 2007, 19:44   #11
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To be honest, I've never looked at mine. Came with the trailer.

I'll take a peek this weekend, if I remember.

As I said, though; you're basically hosing down the inside of the drums (if they are drum brakes), so anything that delivers a good amount of water will splash around and rinse everything anyway. I would think a barbed-to threaded adaptor bolted in place then squeezed down with a pair of vise grips would do the job quite nicely. I suspect you could even get away without squeezing it down.

Disk brakes may be a bit more challenging.

jky
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Old 02 April 2007, 04:15   #12
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Just bought one of these kits, now I have the fun part of stripping the drums off the brakes to look forward to

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Old 02 April 2007, 14:00   #13
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my searider travels really well on this, RB55 dixon bate, 27 rollers, 2 speed winch, 2 spare wheels one off at the mo,with brackets, and bearing savers,i think they have a 3 year cover, hub flashing kit,its a very easy to self launch and recover, have a good contact if you want one,
i also coated the inside of the braking unit with Quicksilver corrosion Guard, basically everything except the liners,and it gets flushed after every dunking, very pleased with it as i do a lot of mileage with it!
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Old 27 November 2007, 09:08   #14
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Hub Flush Kit

As the guy who pioneered the idea of the trailer hub flush system and designed and developed the Hub Flush Kit. www.hubflush.com I would like to make a few things clear.

None of the trailer manufactures used to offer these kits until we approached them with our Hub Flush kit to re-sell. Most have taken the kit and just copied the idea.

As "Downhilldai" points out, you to can go down to the local pluming store and copy the idea, just like all the trailer companies have done.

The problem with doing so is this. The most important and expensive part of the Hub Flush kit is the nozzle jet which we have designed and developed over many months of testing and redesign. This component which is hand made can not be bought elsewhere.

If you just attach plumbing parts to the back of the hubs which pour water into the hub out of a simple opening, as most of the copied kits do, it just makes it's way to the base of the hub and pours out the bottom. Thorough testing has proved this does little good what-so-ever.

When you consider the money you will save on replacement brake parts and trailer servicing, the proper Hub Flush kit is well worth it.
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Old 27 November 2007, 10:09   #15
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That's fair comment!
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Old 27 November 2007, 14:14   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hub Flush View Post
The most important and expensive part of the Hub Flush kit is the nozzle jet which we have designed and developed over many months of testing and redesign. This component which is hand made can not be bought elsewhere.
It must depend on water pressure/flow as to how good your nozzle is

So you need to make it spray up around the top half of the drum with a fitting (you can buy small wash jets etc very cheaply) and wash the salt out to the bottom you could even fit two to get a better pattern

These guys supply good nozzles

http://www.hypro-eu.com/EU_Limited/a...ums=EU_Limited
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Old 27 November 2007, 20:11   #17
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On the braked/unbraked front is it not the towing vehicles max unbraked towing weight in the cars tech spec that defines what you can tow??
I think that you need a land cruiser, Disco, Defender or the like to tow 750kg legally without brakes.
My Octavia TDI weighs 1465kgs but the manual states a max unbraked tow of only 500kgs (the 50% rule gives around 730kg).
I recenty looked at a Jeep patriot and that had a max unbraked tow weight in the manual of only 450kgs despite the 50% rule suggesting that it can easly tow the 750kg maximum for an unbraked trailer.
If you did get in trouble with the old bill they will go on the max unbraked towing weight stated in the cars manual to determine if you are legal.

On the flushing front de graaff quoted me 65 for bearing savers, stainless cables and hub flushing kit on a 1000kg(gross) trailer. They also only fit taper roller bearings, I personally wouldn't buy a trailer with the sealed type.
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