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Old 27 September 2012, 00:30   #1
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Willard 730 - Bilge Water

Hmmm....I always end up with some water in the bilge after taking the boat out. I seems to be about the same amount whether the boat is in the water 3 hours or 3 days. My initial thoughts: outdrive (bellows?), drain plug, or raw water intake (either at the sea cock or the pump end). I replaced my raw water pump a couple of weeks ago so that eliminated one option!

Last week, before heading out, I vacuumed out any remaining water that didn't drain through the plug and gave the bilge a good cleaning. Upon launch, I left the bilge hatch open, left the boat on the trailer, climbed aboard, and watched for any water trickling in...

Well, it was not from the suspected sea cock, outdrive, or drain plug! There was a trickle of water from two half moon shaped drain holes on either side of the transom box that seemed to be flowing at the same rate. These holes drain the void on the outer 1/3 of each side of the hull.

Question: Do the bolt holes (for attaching the tubes) go all the way through to this void and could this be the source of the water??? (when putting on the tubes, I WAS able to put a screwdriver all the way into the hole)

If so, I would probably pull out each bolt and dab some bathroom silicone on it and put it right back in...heck, I'd probably only have to the back half of the hull.

If it's not the case....I think I have bigger issues!

[not by bilge, I just stole the picture from a for sale thread]
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Old 27 September 2012, 18:29   #2
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Where do the drain holes drain to? Into the motor bracket? If so, I'd switch your focus to seeing why water is getting in there.

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Old 27 September 2012, 18:38   #3
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I'll check my hull tonight when I get home (since it in pieces) but I think you might be right. The tube bolt holes don't have a back and they lead to the void between the bilge walls and the outer hull. I've never run mine so I don't know if that's normal. did you look to see if any bolts are missing?

jason
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Old 27 September 2012, 18:46   #4
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Where do the drain holes drain to? Into the motor bracket? If so, I'd switch your focus to seeing why water is getting in there.

jky
Hull is divided into ~1/3's with two longitudinal stringers. The middle section is the main bilge - engine, fuel tank up front, batteries, drive shaft, misc items. The two outside sections are basically closed off except for some small drain holes. I was told that they are empty voids (someone actually cut in there to gain access to put a backing plate for a deck mounted accessory).

The drain holes I am pointing at in the picture drain from the outside areas to the center area. Only the two that are closest the transom had a trickle of water coming out because only the last 5-6 ft of boat are in water while on the trailer just prior to launch. I/O wasn't leaking and neither were the two through hulls
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Old 27 September 2012, 18:48   #5
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I'll check my hull tonight when I get home (since it in pieces) but I think you might be right. The tube bolt holes don't have a back and they lead to the void between the bilge walls and the outer hull. I've never run mine so I don't know if that's normal. did you look to see if any bolts are missing?

jason
Thanks. I haven't had time to pull a bolt and stick a hose up to it but that's my next test!!! (I just had to ask on here because I thought someone might know or have had the same issue)
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Old 27 September 2012, 20:00   #6
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and dab some bathroom silicone on it
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Old 27 September 2012, 20:29   #7
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I wouldn't think that 5200 or Sikaflex would be the right choice. I want to be able to remove them!!! I just need to a make the screwholes a bit more watertight. What's your suggestion????
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Old 27 September 2012, 20:40   #8
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yeah, all my bolts had anti-seize on them. I think corrosion is more of a concern than a bit of water. How much water do you get? gallons or tablespoons?

I would check to make sure you haven't lost a mounting bolt. It's seems that even loose it's not a real big area for water to flow through. also check the backside inserts. The inserts screw into the hull themselves. I had one or two frozen bolts that ended up taking the insert out of the hull.

For a guy that's never actually run his boat it's weird I'm offering advise. But I am currently very familiar with all 140 or so of those bolts

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Old 27 September 2012, 20:55   #9
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yeah, all my bolts had anti-seize on them. I think corrosion is more of a concern than a bit of water. How much water do you get? gallons or tablespoons?

I would check to make sure you haven't lost a mounting bolt. It's seems that even loose it's not a real big area for water to flow through. also check the backside inserts. The inserts screw into the hull themselves. I had one or two frozen bolts that ended up taking the insert out of the hull.

For a guy that's never actually run his boat it's weird I'm offering advise. But I am currently very familiar with all 140 or so of those bolts

jason
Thanks. I too am intimately familiar with my bolts too as I changed my tubes last December! I didn't have a problem getting any of mine undone and the inserts are all sold.

It might be a gallon or so. It's not much be it happens in the first two minute of the day and then the water doesn't ever rise. And, the way Willard placed the bilge pump about 1/3 of the way forward of the transom, the water doesn't even come close reaching the pump.
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Old 27 September 2012, 21:42   #10
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well you have exhausted my experience. I'll look for water next year when my boat sees it again but you'll probably figure it out by then

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Old 28 September 2012, 14:34   #11
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This may be a null experience given you visually see water coming in from those braces, but, on my 733 the bilge connects all the way to the bow. I noticed I always had significant amounts of water in my bilge even though I drain it on the boat ramp after every use( bad practice, I know, but I filter the water thru an oil diaper first). The last time I used her I drained her on the ramp until the bilge appeared dry. Then I drove her up the steepest hill I could find with the bung open. 2 miles up to the top of this steep ass hill going only 20 mph and I stop, run to the back and check the flow. She was still pissing at nearly full stream!! I waited a good five more minutes until she was done. Haven't used her since, but I am confident that was the main issue for water in my bilge.
Hope that may help with your scenario
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Old 28 September 2012, 18:43   #12
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I wouldn't think that 5200 or Sikaflex would be the right choice. I want to be able to remove them!!! I just need to a make the screwholes a bit more watertight. What's your suggestion????
I'd say a polysulfide caulk (marine caulk: Lifecaulk or similar.)

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Old 29 October 2012, 05:27   #13
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Do the bolt holes really go all the way through? I'd like to know that. Seems unlikely. But interesting if they do.

I have my 730 on a boat bag, so there is no possibility for water to enter those bolts when at the dock. But I do notice a similar amount of water ingress.

Another possibility is simply condensation in the outer hull areas. When you drive her after being at the slip, it's possible this water is sliding aft and draining into the main bilge. My sailboat has sealed compartments and it's amazing how much water can accumulate from simple condensation in a closed space.

I did have her a bit bow heavy on the boat bag and noticed that the forward hatch is not sealed (Needs the hatch seal), the rain water ran forward and through the forward hatch rather than out the scuppers aft and I had a heavy bilge full of water after only a few heavy rain days.
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Old 11 December 2012, 23:24   #14
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It should be fairly easy to use a shop vac to blow into the bilge hole and use a bucket of sudsy water dousing all the fittings to find the leak.

If those bolts go all the wAy through to the bilge then something is very wrong.
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Old 13 December 2012, 05:39   #15
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Ok it looks like the inserts do go all the way through the laminate into the tube riser. They are bedded into epoxy. I suppose they could leak anyway. Pressure test should identify.
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Old 13 December 2012, 06:05   #16
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Ok it looks like the inserts do go all the way through the laminate into the tube riser. They are bedded into epoxy. I suppose they could leak anyway. Pressure test should identify.
A pressure test will be a little tough being that it's an inboard and there are numerous above deck locations that aren't airtight. I'll put up some pictures next time I'm at the boat...maybe even a youtube video!

Thanks. Keep the ideas coming!
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Old 14 December 2012, 04:34   #17
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One thing I noticed with my hull on the trailer is that the boat does not sit bow high enough to drain all the water. I have to stick a block of wood on a car jack to get it high enough to drain all the water out. Any chance you just got some water hiding up front that finally drains back on the steep launch ramp?

Jason
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Old 15 December 2012, 06:12   #18
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One thing I noticed with my hull on the trailer is that the boat does not sit bow high enough to drain all the water. I have to stick a block of wood on a car jack to get it high enough to drain all the water out. Any chance you just got some water hiding up front that finally drains back on the steep launch ramp?

Jason
Avius suggested that also. I need to find a steep hill by my house and check it out. I think that my Freeman hatch is relativity waterproof but not 100%, also the two stainless sleeves up near that hatch (for storing the blue light/PA arch) drain to the bilge, and that the the seams where you stand at the helm all might let a little water in either with rain or from rinsing the boat after it's previous outing.

Jason, how's the bracket coming? Same direction with aluminum or thinking about fabricating fiberglass?
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Old 16 December 2012, 04:57   #19
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Jason, how's the bracket coming? Same direction with aluminum or thinking about fabricating fiberglass?
Still thinking aluminum, its what I have access and knowledge to build. Not sure if I mentioned here but got a quote for the aluminum that was over $3k !! Of course zodiac spec'd the unobtanium of aluminum. Thinking of just going 5052 but that's a decision I have to make. I will update my thread, I've made some progress.

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Old 17 December 2012, 21:49   #20
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If you pressurize the limber hole from the center to the outboard section you should be able to get enough pressure to make lots of soap bubbles everywhere it leaks. Transom seams or whatever. Unless there are other holes as big as the limber hole.
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