Looking for suggestions from you experts

Blue Man · 24 June 2015, 21:55

I posted this in the main area but I realized that they probably don't have Tuff coat outside the US.

I have a 1996 Nautica 18' Deluxe rib that I've been restoring (former Navy rib). I have it re-powered and everything is working great. I love it! The only persistent issue is the poor condition of the hypalon tubes and the rub rail. The tubes leak some air after a day and don't look very good either. It looks like some kind of plastic was painted on the tubes for small wear patches at some point in the past. There are lots of small hypalon patches as well and the tubes have been casted from the inside with some improvement.

I can't replace the tubes (out of my price range) so I've thought about applying tuff coat paint and/or wear patches to get it looking better and maybe help with the many pinhole leaks.

I also should probably replace the rub rail as it looks terrible and the top 1 centimeter is pulling away. (It works fine though and isn't coming off any further after a year or so).

So...Wear patches? Tuff coat paint? Something else? Replace rub rail? What should I do and what order should I do it in? Thanks in advance.

Mollers · 24 June 2015, 22:00

In know where there's a bench that would look good on that one.

Blue Man · 25 June 2015, 18:58

Ha ha! I'm actually pretty pleased with the interior layout for what I do with it. Thanks though!

jyasaki · 26 June 2015, 16:16

For the rub rails, Kiwiboyd (on this forum) has said he has a decent selection. Hypalon, too, as I recall.

As to what to do, well, those tubes appear to have had some abuse. They're never going to look pretty. If I were you, I'd replace the strakes, and remove and repatch any of the patches that are in the least bit loose. Paint may be in order, depending on the condition of the outer layer of the fabric (if the hypalon layer is sound, you can skip it, as it will not really do much good.)

Order would be patches (as that's the most important), rail, then paint (as the rail probably won't stay on stuck to the paint.)

My opinion only; I'd bow to anyone with a differing opinion (and a good reason for the difference.)

jky

ShinyShoe · 26 June 2015, 18:04

Jky - I have no experience of paint but when you say painting sound fabric does not do much that differs from the thread here last week 'why don't more people paint tubes' ... I suspect those tubes are nearing end of life - would paint add a bit of protection even if fabric is sound?

RyanPratt · 26 June 2015, 20:19

i would sugest making sure you stabilize your tubes before you paint. replace old patches with new ones and make sure it holds air. if you have any questionable areas cover them in new material. once you are sure the tube is stable you can paint them with a variety of products. Some are more of a dye and will just change color others will add a thin protective barrier to the tube.

I get a lot of my supplies from:
http://www.nrs.com/category/2985/raf...arts-materials

Bigtalljv · 26 June 2015, 23:19

I got all my hypalon fabric and glue from NRS as well.

Jason

jyasaki · 27 June 2015, 04:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShinyShoe

Jky - I have no experience of paint but when you say painting sound fabric does not do much that differs from the thread here last week 'why don't more people paint tubes' ... I suspect those tubes are nearing end of life - would paint add a bit of protection even if fabric is sound?

The hypalon material is 3 layers: an inner layer of neoprene to provide airtightness; a layer of fabric to provide dimensional strength; and a layer of hypalon to provide UV and chemical resistance. If the outer hypalon layer degrades, it often begins checking (cracking like an alligator-skin pattern), which allows water between the 2 rubber layer. Then the fabric starts to go and everything comes apart, which is generally considered bad.

If the hypalon layer is sound, I doubt that the paint is going to do a whole lot other than make it look a homogenous color. I just don't think the paint is tough enough (at least the ones I've seen), though I admit limited experience with it. Someone with more experience with painted tubes may have better input.

jky

zip · 27 June 2015, 12:04

Great thread. Thanks for the resource Ryan.

Blue Man · 27 June 2015, 14:07

Thank everyone for the feedback! I really appreciate your help. I will work on the patches first - replace old patches, add larger wear patches in an offset color, then replace the rub rail, then paint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanPratt

...you can paint them with a variety of products. Some are more of a dye and will just change color others will add a thin protective barrier to the tube.

Which specific paint do you recommend Ryan (or anyone with experience) for tubes like mine that could use a protective layer? I had originally thought about Tuff Coat, but it sounds like there may be other paints that are more suitable.

Thanks again,

John

Nightfisher · 28 June 2015, 16:28

After filling with air and soap-spotting/marking all leaks. Go to the sealer that works from the inside. And get the expensive type, following directions to the tee! Good Luck

jyasaki · 29 June 2015, 23:32

Only problem I see with Nightfishers suggestion is that it's an 18' RIB. Most internal sealants I've seen involve rolling the boat around to cover the tube interior. Ain't gonna happen with an 18' RIB (unless you have a bunch of brawny friends willing to help, I suppose...)

jky

Nightfisher · 30 June 2015, 23:58

Paid seventy-five dollars (appx 30 pounds) for a winch. Looking at the pic of your boat, as I would as if mine, let's start by sealing from the inside-out.

rokar · 29 July 2015, 03:21

Blue Man, if you take a look at one of my albums, you'll see that I pulled the tubes off of my HBI and refurbished them with Tuff Coat.

Some of the red spots on the tubes are the threadbare 2nd ply material that jyasaki mentioned in his post. The Tuff Coat product is a product that you apply in two parts that "vulcanize" together. The 1st base coat does a great job of filling in the threadbare areas and any pinholes that you might have. This base coat stays tacky until the top coat is applied.

I started the project in the spring of 2011 and launched that fall. I will say this about the product, the gray has held up very well but the orange is a different story. The orange has developed spider lines in the top wear areas whereas the gray, which get the most abuse, still looks great.
So, I would definitely recommend the gray.

Along with everybody else, I would suggest replacing all the patches and rubber before putting on the base coat because it does an excellent job of sealing all of the seams.

Hope that helps.
rokar

Blue Man · 29 July 2015, 04:38

Thanks for the advice everyone. Next step is to seal from the inside out. Rokar, how do I find that album you mentioned? I'm not able to search the album area. I'm interested to see those photos though.

rokar · 29 July 2015, 14:11

If I'm not mistaken, click on rokar, click on public view, click on statistics and then click on albums.
Rokar

Blue Man · 29 July 2015, 19:16

Thanks. That worked. Wow those tubes were in bad shape. Nice work.

RIB4SALE.COM · 06 November 2015, 05:50

Stumbled across this thread; was wondering how the boat turned out. Glad to see someone is taking the time to finish my project.

Nautica's fabric just doesn't have the longevity as some of it's competitors. I fixed a dozen leaks on that boat before I sold it to you. It was wicking air on all the wear spots and had the typical rear cone problems. The cone issues come from improper inflation. It's 80 degrees outside and if you dump the boat in 60 degree water and don't top it off it's a bad deal. If the tubes are soft they flop around in the wash and fall apart.

I used liquid rubber on the wear spots and had it holding air pretty good.

Curious to see how it looks now; any pics?

Blue Man · 16 November 2015, 16:40

Patrick, the boat turned out great but you did not have it even close to holding air as you claimed when I bought it from you. I have spent a lot of time and $ on those tubes and they still don't hold air.

I love the boat but it has cost me well over $10,000 to get it to where it is...(and only $1,400 of that went into the engine).

Also, I wish you hadn't used liquid rubber as it is very difficult to remove as part of the process of patching everything properly.

RIB4SALE.COM · 16 November 2015, 22:45

Sorry to hear the boat still doesn't hold air properly.

I tried to describe my boats as accurately as possible. I fixed several leaks and thought it was dialed in. Tubes in this condition are very difficult to repair. You patch one leak and another one pops up. They were worn and I clearly stated they needed more work and I recommended a complete application of tuff coat. That is why it was a giveaway price. The seat, console and galvanized trailer were worth about what you paid for it.

Liquid rubber is designed for application on exposed fabric. Hypalon glue will not stick to the fabric. If you wanted extra protection, you can apply an oversized patch to achieve the hypalon on hypalon contact.

I stand behind all my boats, they basically come with a full warranty to avoid situations like this. I wish you have called me, I would have helped you out. I sold a dinghy last week; the guy was just too big for it. I took it back and sold it to somebody else. I would have done that for you, but you would have had to actually contacted me.

I would have never chimed in on this thread had I thought I pulled a fast one.

Private message would have been cool.