A new 730 Willard in the making!

RyanPratt · 30 December 2012, 13:47

We are getting ready to build out another Willard 730. This will be the best one yet! We have some realy cool build components in the pipeline. Stay tuned!

ncp · 30 December 2012, 15:05

Looking forward to it!

RyanPratt · 30 December 2012, 15:24

We are looking at building this what do you guys think? Its made of aluminum and has a sliding front windshield.

Squid Boat · 30 December 2012, 15:44

"We have some realy cool build components in the pipeline. Stay tuned!"
Quote: RyanPratt.

Aye, but do you have a shiny new build plate?

Cheers, Squid.

RyanPratt · 30 December 2012, 17:03

No...

Squid Boat · 30 December 2012, 17:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanPratt

No...

PM me you address if you want, I will mail it to you for a belated X-Mas present.

Cheers.

RyanPratt · 30 December 2012, 18:42

Smaller windshield width only and gas can rack with grab rail.

RyanPratt · 31 December 2012, 17:15

Our first thoughts are to have aluminum cargo tracks recessed in forward floor along with clear pie eyes to view fuel levels and connections. and have two sections of deck with flush seadex or similar.

RyanPratt · 31 December 2012, 19:26

This shows our first concept for the floor, console and center console. Still need to give some thought to the top.......

1. T-Top
2. Reverse Radar Arch
3. ?

ncp · 31 December 2012, 19:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by RyanPratt

This shows our first concept for the floor, console and center console. Still need to give some thought to the top.......

1. T-Top
2. Reverse Radar Arch
3. ?

Reverse arch on the console like the new Coast Guard OTH's? They look cool and minimalistic (though very functional), but I would think that in FL you'd want some sun protection!

RyanPratt · 31 December 2012, 21:45

Could really use some ideas for what type of top this should have and any inspiration pictures as well

prairie tuber · 01 January 2013, 18:28

Very cool. I was wondering about the purpose of the swing up jockey seats until I saw the location of the cargo hatch. Now it makes sense.

With regard to the floor mounted recessed cargo rails, I usually see them used on their sides (eg. interior sidewalls of cargo trucks, etc.) Do you foresee any issues with trying to keep the rails from clogging up with mud or other debris?

RyanPratt · 01 January 2013, 18:39

The cargo rails have plastic caps that cover them when they are not being used so no dirt fills them.

capntroy · 02 January 2013, 03:33

Ryan - I like the drawings, a lot of thought is going into the layout.

Is there any way to move the console further aft to help reduce operator fatigue, even on a small RIB like the 730, every foot farther back that you can stand is helpful.

I used the track system like you are proposing many years ago on a boat, the problem was that all of the connector fittings that engage the track and act as d-rings eventually have their workings corrode and have to be thrown away, that's why the tried and true flush-folding d-ring works out so well on the deck of a boat.

I have actually gone to a 1/2" threaded insert on my boats now. They're pretty well flush with the deck and I can thread several different types of fittings and hold-downs into them when needed.

Here's one with a 1/2" nylon protector threaded in....keeps the water and debris out of the holes;

RyanPratt · 02 January 2013, 12:21

Thanks for your feedback. I have assumed i will need to sacrifice the fittings every 12 months. Do you have a suplier for your fittings and receivers? We really need to have a tool free option for our decks. You have any more details you can share with your ooptions?

RyanPratt · 02 January 2013, 21:06

This is a scaled side view of the boat with all build components minus top.

Bigtalljv · 02 January 2013, 21:57

Sorry, all I see is green (with envy)

I was excited that i cut the front off my console to free up some deck space but now that seems so lame ....

Jason

capntroy · 03 January 2013, 06:23

Ryan - I thought that I'd also occasionally replace the fittings or keep spares, none of which seemed to pan out when I needed to tie something down while underway and all I could find were rusted fittings :-)

Anyway, we make our own tie-down fittings now; basically a piece of 1" stainless all-thread, parted off in 3" lengths, drilled & tapped for 1/2x20 with a 3/16" thick x 3" dia. stainless flange welded on the top.

Drill a 1" hole in the deck, bedding compound under the flange, drop the all-thread through and come up from the bottom with a backing plate and 1" nylock.

Here's a few pics of the tie-down fittings, the latest version doesn't have the counter-sunk holes on the flange, they proved to be overkill...

For most tie-down jobs, I thread a forged eyebolt into the fitting, hand tight, no tools needed, no moving parts to corrode;

I do have some specialized fittings that I can thread in for special jobs related to my industry.

Now, some of the items that I need to secure on deck weigh 6,000 or 7,000 pounds, so the 1/2" works good for me, the items that you'll be securing are significantly smaller, so you might be able to fabricate a similar system using 1/4" fittings and eyebolts.

Bigtalljv · 06 January 2013, 02:28

I have a fabricator buddy who makes truck beds. He makes tie downs that are a captured vertical rectangular loop that you can pull up to hook on to and drops flush when not in use. There is space enough for dirt and such to drop through so it would need to be able drain below. All the farm boys he sells to like them a lot. He cuts it all on his CNC plasma cutter so I bet they could be done in stainless. Just another idea.

Jason

RyanPratt · 09 January 2013, 13:34

Jason, any chance you can score some pics? Thanks for the ideas guys keep them coming.