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05 May 2010, 16:40
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#1
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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Yam 40hp 2 stroke electrics advice
Can any members with electrical knowledge advise me?
I have a 1999 Yam 40 hp 2 stroke - its manual start and manual tilt.
It has a rectified electrical output.
My questions are...
Is the output DC?
To run Nav lights, a VHF and a plotter on the Rib I would need a
Battery, BUT could I connect the rectified outputs from the motor directly to the terminals of the battery?
Would the battery be charged while the motor was running?
Could the battery be overcharged?
What sort of battery should I be using? A conventional auto battery or
a jet ski type?
I am an electronics novice, so looking for some helpful advice
thanks
! !
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05 May 2010, 17:26
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#2
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
Can any members with electrical knowledge advise me?
I have a 1999 Yam 40 hp 2 stroke - its manual start and manual tilt.
It has a rectified electrical output.
My questions are...
Is the output DC?
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Yes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
To run Nav lights, a VHF and a plotter on the Rib I would need a
Battery, BUT could I connect the rectified outputs from the motor directly to the terminals of the battery?
Would the battery be charged while the motor was running?
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Yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
Could the battery be overcharged?
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Unlikely,but it'd be impossible if it was regulated too. Is it?
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
What sort of battery should I be using? A conventional auto battery or
a jet ski type?
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Any cheap automotive one will do the job. Worth checking out the physical size of it though-it'll need to be in a battery box and you don't want it rattling round.
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05 May 2010, 17:39
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#3
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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thanks Nos
I am building this system from scratch, so its a bare console right now, no battery, nothing.
I envisaged a Bus Bar... a fuse panel... a battery...
no regulator other than that in the supply from the motor.
I just wondered if it was possible to overcharge the battery, expecially if its a sealed type.
What sort of regulator on the battery would I need ? and where in the circuit would it go?
thanks again
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05 May 2010, 17:50
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#4
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,068
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
thanks Nos
I am building this system from scratch, so its a bare console right now, no battery, nothing.
I envisaged a Bus Bar... a fuse panel... a battery...
no regulator other than that in the supply from the motor.
I just wondered if it was possible to overcharge the battery, expecially if its a sealed type.
What sort of regulator on the battery would I need ? and where in the circuit would it go?
thanks again
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I meant, is the output from the engine regulated as well as rectified? I'd be surprised on a '99 engine if it wasn't unless someone has done a DIY job on it.
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05 May 2010, 18:11
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#5
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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yes Nos the supply from the motor is regulated and rectified.
So this means it puts out a steady voltage, and would stop charging the battery when its fully charged?
Sorry - am a putz at electrical issues!
Any other tips for wiring this all up?
Any advice gratefully received
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05 May 2010, 18:12
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#6
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Member
Country: UK - Wales
Town: Here
Boat name: doggypaddle
Make: Avon 5.4 Searider
Length: 5m +
Engine: yamaha 80
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,107
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If its unregulated(unlikley) its not going to be a very big alternator current wise, in which case batteries are pretty good regulators,
my old 10hp 4 stroke honda had an unregulated 5 or so amp alternator,
that charged constantly at 5 amps, battery voltage never went over 14.5
which is fine.
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05 May 2010, 18:16
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#7
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,068
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MustRib
yes Nos the supply from the motor is regulated and rectified.
So this means it puts out a steady voltage, and would stop charging the battery when its fully charged?
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Yep!
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05 May 2010, 18:24
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#8
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Member
Country: UK - England
Town: Newcastle
Boat name: Merlin
Make: RB4 Gemini 550
Length: 4m +
Engine: Tohatsu 90C
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,080
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thanks all....
should be enough of a project to keep me out of mischief !
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05 May 2010, 18:33
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#9
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RIBnet admin team
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,068
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One tip:-
Use a decent waterproof battery switch and a battery box. I think Malthouse sells BEP battery switches.
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09 May 2010, 20:52
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#10
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Member
Country: USA
Town: Anchorage
Make: Avon SR4
Length: 4m +
Engine: Yamaha 40
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 29
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I have a 1995 Yamaha 40 two stroke. I connected the battery leads directly to a car battery and run all my electronics off of the power wire at the throttle control. Haven't had a problem yet.
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