VHF not turning on - just clicking

Poly · 12 July 2021, 22:03

Last weekend I had the boat out a lot. The VHF was working fine for the first day and a half and then suddenly failed part way through Sunday. I assumed it was a dodgy connection as it had certainly been shaken around a lot. I had my handheld and was in sheltered water so wasn't too fussed. There were no obvious loose wires. On investigating back at home there was quite a bit of corrosion on the electrical "distribution panel" so I've replaced that. Still no VHF. I've got battery voltage at the waterproof connector immediately before the radio. I do actually have a very quiet clicking noise when power is on - but the screen doesn't come on and i don't hear anything on the channel it was set to last. I'm figuring its crappy connector/wiring somewhere. The cable from the distribution panel to the VHF was pretty badly corroded so I've cut that back and spliced in fresh wire, but with no success. Am I right in thinking this is a symptom of having enough volts but not enough current? ie. a dodgy wire or connection?

I am away this weekend again and not going to be so sheltered so would really like a fixed VHF that I can trust. I'm currently thinking the quickest/safest option is just to rewire the whole boat, rather than spend another night fault finding. However is it possible/likely the VHF has just died? I don't want to rewire the boat and then discover I need to run around on Friday to get a new VHF. SH have fitted a waterproof connector on the power line which makes it a PITA to just run a cable directly to the battery to test it. Unbelievably they've gone to that trouble and expense but didn't bother to use tinned cable ;-)

ShinyShoe · 12 July 2021, 23:05

Why not just take a long decent cross section wire from the battery to the SH wire? Purely for fault finding?

Assuming the battery is sound?

Ammeter in series show any current flow? What if you press PTT

jonp · 13 July 2021, 00:57

when they start playing up you are often better off just replacing them, just replaced two this week in my daughters and my own boat. I give the old ones away to anyone who's willing to try and fix them!!!!....my boats cop a fair bit of hard work.

Poly · 13 July 2021, 09:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShinyShoe

Why not just take a long decent cross section wire from the battery to the SH wire? Purely for fault finding?

Because SH put a waterproof connector on the power lead, and I'd prefer not to cut that off to test stuff as it lives in the spray...

Quote:

Assuming the battery is sound?

battery is fine, starting the engine no problem, and I stuck the charger on it when I was investigating

Quote:

Ammeter in series show any current flow? What if you press PTT

well its making a noise so there must be some flow - I've no idea what would be normal. Nothing noticeable pressing PTT or twiddling squelch - but IIRC it doesn't turn on instantly anyway it has a power key on the front - the clicking comes before I've tried pressing that.

Quote:

when they start playing up you are often better off just replacing them, just replaced two this week in my daughters and my own boat. I give the old ones away to anyone who's willing to try and fix them!!!!....my boats cop a fair bit of hard work.

If I was sure that the issue was the radio - that's exactly what I would do, but I guess my question is, has anyone else experienced similar symptoms and discovered its a wiring/corrosion/power supply fault rather than the radio. My concern is I spent £200 on a new radio and will get exactly the same because some bit of cable in a hard to see place has gone crusty... ...alternatively frantically rewiring everything this evening to discover that the wiring was all OK but the radio is goosed would be just as frustrating.

treerat · 13 July 2021, 10:00

I prefer to start easy and work backwards. Try a different radio, borrowed, begged, new and return if fine!

Then look elsewhere, high chance its the unit if all other electrics are fine.

jwalker · 13 July 2021, 10:36

You're not being your usual rational self!

You need to remove the radio and wire it directly to a good battery then switch on, if it works goodoh, if it doesn't, buy a new one.

Job done.

Poly · 13 July 2021, 10:40

Quote:

Originally Posted by jwalker

You're not being your usual rational self!

You need to remove the radio and wire it directly to a good battery then switch on, if it works goodoh, if it doesn't, buy a new one.

Job done.

mmm... sounds like I need a new SH power cable - or bite the bullet and cut their fancy waterproof connector off.

willk · 13 July 2021, 10:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

Because SH put a waterproof connector on the power lead, and I'd prefer not to cut that off to test stuff as it lives in the spray..

IMO that set is goosed - but I feel your Caledonian Concern!

Can you get a meter reading from the battery side of the SH power connector?
If so then you can jumper over a supply to the set side connector and meter amps in RX and TX. I reckon the set should power up with very little amps and that even with rotten copper you would still get a light or something! The speedy onset on this issue makes me lean to the set.

Bern Hanreck · 13 July 2021, 12:24

Is it possible the power side is ok and the aerial is playing up ?

Fender · 13 July 2021, 13:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bern Hanreck

Is it possible the power side is ok and the aerial is playing up ?

Have you read Poly's first post - 'the screens not coming on' - clearly not a aerial issue

willk · 13 July 2021, 14:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

mmm... sounds like I need a new SH power cable - or bite the bullet and cut their fancy waterproof connector off.

Phew! Almost there P. Now that you've accepted the Inevitable, how about you cut the power cable first to prove the case, and if that works enjoy your trip and order a new power cable for another day. Or the new VHF that I suspect you need.

Poly · 13 July 2021, 16:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by willk

Phew! Almost there P. Now that you've accepted the Inevitable, how about you cut the power cable first to prove the case, and if that works enjoy your trip and order a new power cable for another day. Or the new VHF that I suspect you need.

OK - surgery commencing shortly...

Poly · 13 July 2021, 16:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

OK - surgery commencing shortly...

Quick update...

The radio is fine.
I have less skin on my knuckles than before.
So now the fault finding commences... ...although I feel it might be easier to rip it all out and start again. It was originally wired 15 years ago and has had lots of bodges/mods since then.

Pikey Dave · 13 July 2021, 17:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

Quick update...

The radio is fine.

I have less skin on my knuckles than before.

So now the fault finding commences... ...although I feel it might be easier to rip it all out and start again. It was originally wired 15 years ago and has had lots of bodges/mods since then.

I’d be taking a good look at the “waterproof” connector

willk · 13 July 2021, 20:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I’d be taking a good look at the “waterproof” connector

^ yer

Poly · 13 July 2021, 22:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

I’d be taking a good look at the “waterproof” connector

I'm halfway through rewiring. I've run out of swear words so stopped for the night. As far as I can see almost every marine specific bit of kit - nav lights, circuit breaker/fuse thing (probably the source of my issues with the vhf), is made without using tinned cable or waterproof connectors etc. I've done a few bodges over the years with the wiring - but they are mostly still working fine - its the proper "marine" bits that are rotting!.

I was getting low voltage alerts on the GPS when trimming up/down and assumed that was just the motor sucking all the juice for itself... but the internal voltage being reported on the GPS is about 0.6V less than at the battery so will be interesting to see what happens to that when I replace that cable next. It looks like I'm back in business though... ...thanks for your help folks.

I've replaced the circuit breaker with a traditional fuse in a waterproof holder, I'm pretty sure the thinking is this is not ideal? It will do for now - but am I imagining that "we" prefer trip switches now?

oracle · 14 July 2021, 09:24

Most common cause of low voltage to the instruments on Viper is build up of corrosion on the blades of the fuses in my "Blue Sea" fuse box.

Pikey Dave · 14 July 2021, 11:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poly

….- but am I imagining that "we" prefer trip switches now?

Nope, BlueSea fuse box for me, KISS.
The only concession to modernity is the use of LED indicator fuses that light up when blown. Makes for an easier life in a dark console.
I share your despair at the lack of tinned cable in “professional” installations though. That’s why I now do all my own rigging.