How much for a Re-wire?

Zippy · 20 January 2005, 19:57

Im trying to get some new electrics sorted for Zippy. i did have good intentions of doing it myself as i can see the benefit of knowing what does what if anything were to go wrong.

Problem is, i have just looked under the console for the first time with any serious view to wiring and its a mass bundle of black wires and i dont know where to start.

Theres no positive or negative Bus, wires are not labeled or colour coded and its scared the bejesus out of me.

Anyone out there got an idea what i could expect to pay someone to do this for me?? im wanting to install a 4 way switch panel for nav lights and bilge pump, wire in a fixed radio and gps plotter.

thanks in advance,

Zippy

Rogue Wave · 21 January 2005, 10:09

put a phot up of the console and the internal wiring?

GED · 21 January 2005, 11:41

its simple ....red to red.....black to black.....blue to bits!

Zippy · 21 January 2005, 17:15

Im going to have a real good look this weekend. if i can figure out whats happening under the console in my head i hope things will be clearer.

Look at it logically and all that. will get some pics tomorrow too

Biggles · 21 January 2005, 19:07

Thats the problem with boat wiring it all seems very haphazard.

I would be tempted to rip the whole lot out and rewire it. At least then you will know where everything goes and what it does.

I too wanted to rewire my RIB over the winter. I did the engine and all the way from the engine to the console. When I seriously looked under the console it was such a mess, that I decided to tidy it up as best as possible and leave it for next year.

Their are so many different colours and bit of wire underneath that I decided what it really needs is ripping out and replacing.

It took six hours to do the engine etc, So I guess a full day doing under the console. As it all works I have left it for now. Also because of the tight confines of my console I am tempted to lift the console out to do the re wiring.

My Dad once said to me if it works don't touch it. In this case I decided to go along with that.

I would imagine the hardest bit to do if you had to do it would be the loom from the throttle control to the engine. But this is a loom and as such doesn't require any rewiring. Its all the bits of wire to the VHF/Depthgauge/Nav Lights/ GPS that are the problem.

Best of luck.

Nick R.

Hightower · 21 January 2005, 21:28

If I were you Howard I'd sit down in front of your console with a cupper and a mulimeter, have a good rumage around and seperate the outboard loom from everything else. You can't do anything with the outboard wires exept to check the bullitt connections for corrosian one at a time and note any fuses you come across.

All the other wires are "none crittical" meaning strip them out and start again! Obviously don't chop instument wires, but my guessing is that there's a load of leftovers that you don't need.

I ended up with a bin full of wire after I finished.

Any probs PM, Mail or phone me.

Andy

Zippy · 21 January 2005, 21:33

i was planning to sit down and have a look tomorrow but looks like in off to port solent in the morning to get some bits and bobs and maybe a sneeky kite fly too.

Maybe tomorrow afternoon if the rain holds off. i will be taking pics so i might have some chance of putting it back togeather again.

Nasher · 21 January 2005, 21:49

Zippy

Have to agree with most here, builders do just throw the wiring in the boat now.

As Hightower says identify the engine loom and then rip the rest out and start again, its very satisfying to get right and you'll understand it a lot more.

Most of what you will be doing is supplying 12V power to various items via switches and of course fuses. Approach it methodically and it will fall into place. Keep it tidy as well, it will look good and be easier to fault find should it not work, or should it go wrong in a force 6, 2 miles off shore.

I did mine last year but now I'm building a complete new dash and making some other changes so am going to do it again.

Nasher.

Hightower · 21 January 2005, 21:57

I can get you some short lenghts on electrical trunking that you can glass to the inside of your console either side. Engine loom one side and everything else the other. Worked for me and I can even use the console for storing things in.

You'll need to rewire everything exept the engine so that if you have electrical gremins at Sea you know where everything is.

Oh yes.....Move that Isolator switch

Biggles · 21 January 2005, 22:00

As I said outside of the Engine Wiring loom its all simple logical wiring stuff for lights etc. You can do it yourself quite easily.

I have no Engineering or Mechanical or Technical background and actually enjoy wiring up accesories.

Wiring Engines though are an unknown area for me and would be done with some trepidation. Thats not as tho' I wouldn't do them tho'

Regards Nick r.

Zippy · 22 January 2005, 08:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hightower

I can get you some short lenghts on electrical trunking that you can glass to the inside of your console either side. Engine loom one side and everything else the other. Worked for me and I can even use the console for storing things in.

You'll need to rewire everything exept the engine so that if you have electrical gremins at Sea you know where everything is.

Oh yes.....Move that Isolator switch

Thanks Andy, that would be great!

Its fine when im driving the boat. unortunatly Roger has fatter legs and keeps knocking the switch!! think he learnt his lesson tho!

Zippy · 23 January 2005, 15:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

put a phot up of the console and the internal wiring?

Here goes!

Graham H · 23 January 2005, 20:12

I bet if you cut off the cable ties it wont be as bad as you think
Graham

DJL · 23 January 2005, 20:40

Are both cables from the battery black? That could be confusing.

Engine loom looks in pretty good condition - I would separate it from everything else and tie it up out the way. Spraying quicksilver corrosion guard (or similar) on the connectors stops them corroding (funnily enough).

For the rest a water proof box bolted to the console would be a good place to have fused bus bars, NMEA connections etc....

....wish I could get inside my console that easily

Rob Whitham · 31 January 2005, 19:40

Hi
I used to do a lot of boat wiring. There are two things that can really help the reliabilty of electrical wiring in a salty atmosphere:

1)
Reduce the mechanical strain on it by using conduit. Flexible tubing systems such as copex are excellent for this and can be secured with p brackets. Alternatively on exposed runs, large diameter, hep plumbing will ensure evrything is secure and watertight. The secret with conduit is not to overfill it and always leave a draw cord in each section (orange crab line is good) to add extra stuff later, when you can draw a new wire through( with a new spare draw cord).

The copex can be led to a waterproof junction box where there are a lot of wires meeting at the same junction point - so that you can pull it easier. All the above stuff is available fairly cheaply at electrical wholesalers. Also you can buy very sticky number and letter stickers for each end of each cable - this saves tons of time next time you have to deal with anything.

2)
Also, in my experience, old wires react in the marine environment even inside the pvc cable. First it goes brown and brittle and eventualy brown and green when it can then turn to a powdery substance. The brittleness can extend up the pvc coating upto about 8 inches. This can then snap when under strain eg 30 knots in a head sea. Coax also rusts up inside the casing and can effect signal performance in VHF and Radar. The best way to avoid this is to liberally splodge clear silicone on connections and terminals and back an inch or so up the cable.

My retired father still does one or two exceptionally well made panels a year, mainly for yachts and would be happy to talk to anyone wanting one which is beyond the regular DIYer.

Hope the above is useful. Regards Rob

CJL · 31 January 2005, 21:12

couldn't agree more.

Its best to get it laid out so that you can diagnose as quickly and as easily as possible.

I've got a fuse box in mine with leds either side of the fuse. That way you can see if the supply is ok and if the fuse is also ok.

Quick and easy to see whats going on.

I don't agree with the philosophy of if it aint broke don't fix it tho. Could be you or your kids floating on a dead boat in the channel cause of minute tiny bad connection. Not worth it in my opinion.

Chris