Electrical components for re-wire - Page 2

SDGANDER · 14 February 2005, 11:13

Well Good Luck if you manage to order without registering as a business customer as it IS in contravention of their Terms and Conditions of Sale.

RS is a business-to-business supplier. The RS website is intended for use by business customers and not for consumers or private individuals.

Source Here

SDG

chrisallse · 14 February 2005, 17:06

You Missed a bit out.

RS is a business-to-business supplier. The RS website is intended for use by business customers and not for consumers or private individuals. Notwithstanding the foregoing, nothing in these terms and conditions of sale shall affect the statutory rights of a Customer who deals as a consumer.

They will serve anyone as long as you pay them, i get a phone call regularly asking if i want an account but they are perfectly happy to trade without.

Rogue Wave · 14 February 2005, 19:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Garfish

connsidder yorselv spoyled

OH gArfie you are a Silly old sausage!

SDGANDER · 14 February 2005, 20:34

Yeah I deliberately missed that out cos I didn't really understand it or it's relevance...

But I do know I had to make a round trip of 20 odd miles from my (old) local branch back home to get proof of trading for my part time job before they'd let me purchase anything.... guess it's easier online to bluff!

SDG

jwalker · 14 February 2005, 21:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDGANDER

Well Good Luck if you manage to order without registering as a business customer as it IS in contravention of their Terms and Conditions of

Well, for many years I've had an account with RS but they don't call themselves that. At that time the RS staff told me that they do wish to keep RS free from public access but they had set up a company to handle private orders in the same way as RS and the catalogue is the standard RS one. Electromail plus is the name. Maybe they've opened RS up to us punters now but Electromail still exists and I still use it.

However, I go along with Rogue about the tight tie-wrapping af all services together, RS not always being the best source of marine components and the ability to separate the harness for access in the future. I've lost count of the number of times my harnes was loosened to add unforseen equipment wiring. Re-usable cable ties are a godsend. The double sided velcro has its place but I find it difficult to feed behind cable bunches if the access is not too good. It is though very useful stuff around the boat. Wrap in around yer waterproofs, fix the trailer cable out of the way, bind yer VHF arial to the A frame to limit its movement etc, etc.

Rogue Wave · 14 February 2005, 21:59

WJ are you an old enough git to remember when they was called Radio Spares.

re the Velcro Tie wrap you can actually get harness ties made from Velcro which emulate a tie rap. I'll send you some if you PM your address.

jwalker · 14 February 2005, 22:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

WJ are you an old enough git to remember when they was called Radio Spares.

re the Velcro Tie wrap you can actually get harness ties made from Velcro which emulate a tie rap. I'll send you some if you PM your address.

1) Yep.

2) Will do, ta.

Rogue Wave · 14 February 2005, 22:28

Ok I'll send you the Velcro wraps and the business end of a Dirks Deliverer and cos you were clever enough to agree about RS components you can also have a packet of coloured tie wraps!

jwalker · 14 February 2005, 22:31

Cool. Ta.

chrisallse · 15 February 2005, 03:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rogue Wave

WJ are you an old enough git to remember when they was called Radio Spares.

I even remember good old Jim Buck their Rep....how old is that

jwalker · 15 February 2005, 10:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by chrisallse

I even remember good old Jim Buck their Rep....how old is that

Chris, you're obviously much older than me and rogue...

chrisallse · 15 February 2005, 15:57

I'm not that old!

Actually he was a lovely man, knew his trade inside out and was a credit to 'radio spares' he had a bag, a bit like a doctors, and this would have samples of the latest products in it, always looked forward to his visit. They were (and still are) a fantastic company. I remember when they had a firm of consultants in to improve efficiency and they spent a month with them and concluded that there was nothing they could improve on.

Rogue Wave · 15 February 2005, 16:45

They don't make reps like they used to!

arn.george · 16 February 2005, 18:40

Anyone any comments on the proposed wiring

ashbypower · 16 February 2005, 18:52

Hi, I prefer all circuits separatly fused and switched. That's how we've just done Blue C.
If you wish to share power to the GPS and FF its better to have VHF independant:
It takes a lot more current than the other two therefore they would be "Over Fused" and can interfere with both GPS & FF a seperate supply would help in eliminating this.

All IMHO.

However you do it good luck

Brian

DJL · 16 February 2005, 19:00

I would agree with Brian.

Fuse the GPS, FF and Radio separately. If you need to save space on the fuse panel then use one fuse for all three lights.

arn.george · 16 February 2005, 19:25

Thanks for comments - will fuse GPS and FF together and VHF separately - which will probably prevent some interfernce. Could fuse lights together but wanted to keep anchor light separate from port and starport lights.

Swifty · 16 February 2005, 19:55

You need to check how you have wired the battery selector, (I assume it is a selector) but it looks the wrong way round. You need the engine on the same connection as the auxillary circuits.

I have drawn the wiring diagramme for my boat Okada. I decided to use 1 switch for the nav/steaming lights but could use a DPDT switch if I later change my mind to have steaming or steaming+nav. Note no switch for the radio to keep it simple in panic mode. I wired the gps/dsc to the same supply as the radio.

Hope it gives you some ideas.
Tim.

chrisallse · 17 February 2005, 05:45

Swifty is correct, if you connect both the engine live and the aux live to the same terminal of the switch and use the switch as an isolator, that should work fine. If you are going to fit a second battery then you would need to wire it the same as Swifty has. Tip' make sure you have all the battery connections correct before you conect up..or you may have a fire on your hands. I prefer a fuse in the power cable to the console (100 amp)just in case the supply cables are shorted. you also need to ensure that the supply from the battery to the fuse panel is large enough to handle the collective current of all the Aux's. As you have some spare switches why not switch the equipment supply?

Have fun

arn.george · 17 February 2005, 06:49

As you have some spare switches why not switch the equipment supply?

Thought about switching gps, ff and radio but then they have there own switches anyway. One switch was going to be used as horn switch (press switch rather than on off) and one spare.

Agree that 100amp fuse inline at battery would be sensible.

Thanks for everyone's help - hope to make a start at w/e.