Adding/replacing wires in wiring harness

[mhoff]

Have a Sirocco 500, center console aluminum RIB. Very nicely setup.

The wires to the Rule 500 auto bilge pump seem to be dead. All other wiring is working afaik.

The wiring that runs from the center console to the stern of the boat is tied tightly together with zipties and runs inside a large-ish corrugated plastic tube - 10cm wide or so. This plastic tube goes under the floor, through the openings in the various bulkheads. The floor has only 2 openings, one under the console, and one hatch at far back - pretty small.

Long story short, it's going to be a horrible job to run new cables or to re-run these burned out / bad cables. I see no "lead" strings or cables.

Any ideas? Recommendations?

[paintman]

Solder new wire to the old wire & pull through - if it will slide?
Be an idea to put a bit of heatshrink tube over the join to help it slide.

[jonp]

Tie some cord to the old wires and wrap with electrical tape to make a smooth point both front and back end, then pull the old wire through carefully after cutting at one end. You will need to snip all the cable ties. If the wire jambs pull back a bit and keep pulling at it (better with two peoples sometimes). Put lots of grease or vasoline etc over the the bulky join where you have taped together and make sure you join the cord and old wire well as you don't want it pulling apart.

There are solder joins in heat sink tube which are pretty good. I then use heat shrink take and self amalgamating tape over the top of it all.

Firstly though, have you tested the fuses and the wire with an electrical tester. Also I find the auto bilge pumps often have a shorter life than bilge pumps you simply turn on when you need them.

Use tinned marine wiring as this has two benefits, first it is less prone to corrosion and secondly it has les chance of electrical interference to other wires such as transducer cables that may be running alongside it.

[spartacus]

If in doubt, swap it out!

God advice so far. A cheap multimeter with continuity signal is invaluable. Only use tinned cable. When you eventually pull the wiring out, chances are the insulating shroud is fine, but it will be oxidised/corroded along its length.

[Pimpmyrib]

A guy that did some work for me used a flexible rod like electricians use for cavity walls. Pushed it through then attached the cable and pulled it back through, 5 mins, I was suitably impressed.

[User name]

You can do it with fish wire. It's basically a plastic or metal flexible rod that you push through and attach the wires to. Then just drag it back out, pulling the new wiring through with it.

If it's zip tied right the way through the ducting then pulling out just the dead wire isn't going to be a option.

[jonp]

Shouldn't have to use anything apart fro the existing wire already in to attach the new wire to and pull through. Yes the electrical wire pullers and socks can be used etc if using a new wire through and you don't already have something existing to pull with.

[jeffstevens763@g]

Conduit threader