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Old 24 January 2015, 16:57   #1
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Why does my Rib lean to Port

Hi all, I had a Ribeye A600 with a Yamaha 100hp that i loved and never had issues with. I slept up to a Ribeye S650 (Used 2008) with a Yamaha 150hp. it keeps leaning to Port badly at all speeds but starts to level off if you trip the outboard. you can feel it is still there at full speed 42kts with the trip to its max but not as bad. can anyone advice why. The engine is already off set from factory. I have been told that i should lift the outboard higher to make sure the cavitation plate is in line with the bottom of the boat (the bottom of the V). some one else has told me to adjust the angle of the Anode... Any advice would be greatly apriciated as this is really starting to stress me out.
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Old 24 January 2015, 17:26   #2
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Is the engine offset?

Cheers
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Old 24 January 2015, 18:02   #3
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With the standard set up it will not be offset!
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Old 24 January 2015, 18:16   #4
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I guess that is your problem then.

Will be curious to hear how others have fixed, I have same problem and I assume I'll be breaking out a drill move the motor.

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Old 24 January 2015, 18:33   #5
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Offset may help, however if the anti ventilation plate is below the bottom of the transom then I would certainly try lifting the motor until it is level or even an inch or two above. If the ventilation plate is buried under water when you are planing then this could well.be the problem.

ideally you want the ventilation plate skimming on top of the wake and just getting splashed.
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Old 25 January 2015, 02:19   #6
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Lift the engine up one hole, so the anti Cav plate is an inch above the bottom of the boat. Ensure you are propped to max allowable rpm.
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Old 25 January 2015, 03:52   #7
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Ramos, I also have the ribeye 650s with a yammie 150 and think it is a great boat but it doesn't lean to port at any speed. I assume you have checked the simple things like weight distribution in the boat? If you have then I would give ribeye a call and ask for Tim on the shopfloor (quality assurance) as he knows his stuff and should be able to help you reference engine setup, if you are still struggling send me a pm I will take photos of my engine setup the next time I visit the boat in a couple of weeks time.
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Old 25 January 2015, 06:24   #8
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Old 25 January 2015, 08:33   #9
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I went through this with my boat, which I installed myself. It was the first time that I had fitted out a boat. I had the same problem with a list to port. For a time I improved it significantly by adjustment of the trim tab (yes I know this is contrary to theory), but it was not consistent and I knew that I still be an issue. My engine is offset by 1.5 inches.
I have two batteries, a light weight starter battery, and a much heavier house battery. I had installed these to the port side of the console. So I removed the old battery holder and fitted the batteries with the heavier house battery as far to starboard as possible, and the starter battery close up beside it. With both the batteries offset, and the engine offset, the torque reaction of the engine has been overcome, and I have since had no problems.
The point is that even with a decent engine offset, the installation in your particular boat could still be an issue. Look for weight that is offset to port. Check and be suspicious of everything; if you bought the boat second hand you probably have no idea what has been done to it in the past
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Old 25 January 2015, 11:58   #10
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before lifting and moving engines i would
look at the sacrificail anode under the cavatation plate
it could be just needing turn round slightly it is to balance
the rotation of prop ???
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Old 25 January 2015, 14:37   #11
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He did say it was already offset
Quote:
The engine is already off set from factory
silly question...which way have they offset it and how much ??

Our Humber's o/b appears central when you look at the transom cut out, but when you look at the whole transom the cut out itself is offset.
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Old 25 January 2015, 15:15   #12
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Post some pics of the of the outboard position on the boat, that will everyone help to identify your problem.

I had a similar problem with my last rib, I needed to shift the outboard up a hole or two and also I had to sort weight distribution in the boat. Extreme but I shifted my console by a couple of inches as well.

If your setup is all factory standard I would have thought if it was all s=down to weight distribution.
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Old 26 January 2015, 18:17   #13
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I am the fat bloke.. Only I'm on the right!
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Old 26 January 2015, 18:23   #14
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That's all great information thank you all.. I will be at the rib on Thursday to do some working out. First thing will be to fit my refurb prop. The raise the engine as the cavitation plate is lower than the bottom of the boat. I will raise it to the last setting just above the bottom of the boat. I will give it a try like that. Then if needed I will make snap adjustments to the anode. I will also look in to the batterie as I have 2 and 1 is to port and the other is centered. Loads to look at but sounds like it's fixable.. I will keep you all posted.. Oh, I still have the Ribeye A600 if anyone is interested in buying it 17,500 with Yamaha 100hp 2007 with trailer 280 hrs ish. Thx again
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Old 09 February 2015, 15:05   #15
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Hi All

I wanted to thank you all for your input but have some news that will make your eyes water..

I lifted the engine, changed the none return valves to make sure water wasn't sneaking in, reconditioned my prop, all of which didn't make any difference.

So i thought i would take a break and work out why the bilge pump wasn't working. SO while i was under the consul looking at fuses i spotted that the second battery is smaller than the case it was in and had shifted to port by 4 + inches. i pushed it to starboard and wedged a plastic water bottle to stop it moving and guess what!!!!!!!!!! yes if fixed the lean!! Just that small shift in the batter made such a difference.

So no my problem is i have the bilge pump working on manual but wont work on auto.. any ideas..

PS. don't take the micky out of me about the leaning to port and the battery. i feel a bit like a twit.
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Old 09 February 2015, 15:26   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wavelength View Post
He did say it was already offset

silly question...which way have they offset it and how much ??

Our Humber's o/b appears central when you look at the transom cut out, but when you look at the whole transom the cut out itself is offset.
That is important to know on beforehand. Because than it's not possible to place a counter clockwise engine on the boat...
I also have a Humber but the transom cut is in the center, and i have a counter clock wise engine, whithout off-set
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Old 09 February 2015, 17:37   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramos View Post
So no my problem is i have the bilge pump working on manual but wont work on auto.. any ideas..
The float is probably toast. Start checking the wiring with a volt ohm meter or a test light. Depending on the type of float you have will determine the tests from there. A regular float can just be lifted to test. Solid state requires a "connection" like water normally does between the contact surfaces.

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Originally Posted by Ramos View Post
PS. don't take the micky out of me about the leaning to port and the battery. i feel a bit like a twit.
Heck no I am PROUD of you

Simple solutions can sometimes be the hardest to find. I was a professional auto tech for much of my career, and can tell you stories...you did good!
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Old 10 February 2015, 02:45   #18
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That sounds odd, surely a 4 inch shift in a battery location cant make such a difference on a boat that size, something aint right ? Maybe its a combination of things, any water trapped in hull ?
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