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Old 16 June 2021, 14:10   #1
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Thermostat bolt broke

Had a bit of a nightmare checking my thermostat (it works fine should have left it)

Bolt broke off then when extracting the bolt it broke the ear off the casingÖ

Iíve tried drilling and tapping chemical metal, note onto a piece of threaded bar. Anyone got any ideas?
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Old 16 June 2021, 14:38   #2
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www.amazon.co.uk/Durafix-Aluminium-Welding-Easyweld
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Old 16 June 2021, 14:44   #3
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These look really interesting must look into them!
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Old 16 June 2021, 14:51   #4
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Added a link where to buy. Do let us know how you get on.
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Old 16 June 2021, 14:54   #5
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Thanks. I’ll try to see if the bolt with a screw through it and metal epoxy works tomorrow. If not this will be the next steep. I wonder if I’m better trying to fix the bolt in or drilling and tapping
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Old 16 June 2021, 16:55   #6
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Thanks. Iíll try to see if the bolt with a screw through it and metal epoxy works tomorrow. If not this will be the next steep. I wonder if Iím better trying to fix the bolt in or drilling and tapping
Weld it up with those rods, drill and tap. Worth it in the long run, why bodge it again?
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Old 16 June 2021, 17:01   #7
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Thanks. Iíll try to see if the bolt with a screw through it and metal epoxy works tomorrow. If not this will be the next steep. I wonder if Iím better trying to fix the bolt in or drilling and tapping
I would try gluing a stud in and then secure the cover with a nut
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Old 16 June 2021, 17:08   #8
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Tried a nut can’t get it in due to the inset of the hole.

I’m debating placing a large pipe clamp/ work screw on it too to hold it together. If it’s leaking abit is it such a big issue for a few weeks? It’s been away for 7 weeks for another issue so just want to get out on it
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Old 17 June 2021, 02:50   #9
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That's cast alloy. Only real answer is tig weld built up to allow re-tapping.


I had same issue and local welder built it up ok.


One warning, remove ignitor/ignition. I know because I assumed mine was magneto, it wasn't and it's now fubar.
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Old 17 June 2021, 13:03   #10
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Having used them I can say that those rods do have their uses but you need to get the thing they're going onto up to the right temperature.
If it isn't they will just break up & not adhere as you can see at 1.20 in the links.
The problem you've got with an engine is that you're trying to heat up a giant heatsink & you aren't going to achieve that with a diy blowtorch.

I've had a number of threaded holes & broken bosses on old British bike engines successfully repaired by welding them up - mig or tig - then drilling & tapping.
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Old 17 June 2021, 13:30   #11
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If you wanted to retry gluing a stud with JB Weld or similar then you could try drilling the stud & putting a couple of short pins in to help lock it with the glue to stop it turning.
Cutting a slot at the glue end with a 1mm disc would probably work just as well

The metal you are trying to glue it to needs to be squeaky clean!

If you can't get a nut on the stud due to clearance issues just use a load of washers before putting the nut one.
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Old 17 June 2021, 15:52   #12
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The problem you've got with an engine is that you're trying to heat up a giant heatsink & you aren't going to achieve that with a diy blowtorch.
Yes I think it would require oxy-acetylene for sure. Maybe oxy-propane.
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Old 19 June 2021, 11:24   #13
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So I got the problem somewhat solved. The epoxied treaded bar didn’t work. Epoxy cracked. Managed to use a grinder to make enough of a gap and an edge. Got a nut in place then tightened down. Works well and it doesn’t even leak a drop. Doesn’t look pretty. But it’s solid! Thanks for the advice. I talked to a few engineering places. They all wanted the engine broke down and stated it would be a sketchy job and might not hold a tap well!
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