Suzuki DF20A DIY yearly service.

[Da_q-ban_one]

Thank you for your responses. It is so hard to find a good outboard around here in this good condition being sold used that I ended up getting it.

There's a bit of minor corrosion on some of the hardware (mainly a couple of nuts and bolts), but it's all superficial. I think I will just remove and run a wire brush to restore. The res of the motor seems to be in great shape and runs good. I suppose we'll see how it performs under load.

If I were to tackle the timing belt myself, what tools would I need to remove the old one? I will try ordering a new belt.

It is a DF20A serial 02002F-412689

How do I know what year it is and such other info for ordering parts?

Also, here do you guys order your parts from?

[Fenlander]

Get yourself a Suzuki workshop manual either paper version or on a CD then look through the timing belt procedure and it will show you the special tools which you will be able adapt from cheaper automotive ones.

[Fenlander]

I've just found I still have my repair manual as a pdf so if you PM me your email address I'll send it on over.

[Da_q-ban_one]

That is very generous of you!! I just PM'd you my address. Thanks a million!!

Question: what else should I be replacing (or is recommended) while tackling the timing belt? I'm getting ready to order the parts from boats.net (and looking to take advantage of the free shipping promotion they currently have).
Cheers!! ����*♂️��

[Fenlander]

Damn... tried to email the manual pdf but says file too large for server. Don't know a way round that. Here is a link to the operation manual which gives quite a bit of info but you may have got one with the outboard...

https://www.suzuki.hu/app/webroot/fi...70-055(EN).pdf

Regarding the parts needed in addition to the timing belt I'd try and get a service kit like I showed in post #1.

But as far as I recall to do a major service at most you'll need...

Engine oil, filter, filter & drain plug seals.
Gear oil and two seals.
Spark plugs.
Fuel filter.
Internal & external anodes plus internal anode housing o-ring.
Water pump impellor, housing liner & gaskets.
Valve cover metal gasket.
Prop nut split pin.

Of course some of these things may not be needed but I found it easier to get them all so they were to hand during the service then what wasn't required is in stock for next time.

I would also strongly advise you get the diagnostics lead and software as you will be able to see the engine's history on the log page... if it's had any overheats or low oil alarms etc... as well as a record of the time it's spent running in each speed range.

[Oldman2]

U can use something like Dropbox or upload it to your Google drive and share via a set link.

[Fenlander]

Ahh OK thanks.... I don't use Google services but will check out Dropbox shortly.

Edit: Now done that and hopefully Rudy will have a link to access it.

[Da_q-ban_one]

Thank you sooooooo much Fenlander, you sir are my hero!!! I'm am going to follow your advice and order all the items you recommended (including the SUZUKI Outboard Boat Diagnostic Kit). I ended up getting the USB SDS 8.4 version (just in case).

As far as the 'valve cover metal gasket', is it item #14 (cylinder head cover gasket) out of the diagram (link below)...? And if so, what is the purpose for replacing this (if I may so boldly inquire), meaning, am I just proactively changing the gasket, or because I need to service another component, which requires removal of said cover? Sorry for the seemingly obvious question, I am not too familiar with these lil motors.

I will be posting some pictures of the outboard showing the slightly rusted bolt heads and compression pins I found (surface rust I hope), once I've had a chance to open and take apart its covers for a closer look.

I actually bought it this past Saturday, just before I saw your response(s) to my initial post about what looked to be rust in the pictures. I suppose I was just so happy to find a "gently used" suzuki locally - again, very hard to find newish outboards, in good shape, being sold locally. In retrospect, I wish I had waited to hear back from you guys, and waited a bit more before actually proceeding with the purchase.

Anyhow, after purchasing, and upon searching online for the parts I would be potentially buying; I am a bit saddened to share that I learned what the seller said (and I thought I was buying) was actually not a 2016 model, but in reality a 2014 model (made in Aug. 2013). My mistake I suppose, I should've paid closer attention to it, but then again, I didn't know what to look for.

No turning back now. It did run beautifully, but the fact that he said he would always flush it with the garden hose port, and not submerged in a barrel, or with 'ear muffs' now is very concerning to me (as it is not recommended, right?).
The reality is, it looks to have everything original on it, and based on what he shared, and his overall lack of knowledge (of anodes, gear oil drain/fill plug locations, among other minor details), coupled with the fact that it spent its entire life in a salt water environment, has me terrified!!

I don't think the previous owner necessarily abused it in any way. In fact it seems to have been used very little and well kept for its age. But the lack of maintenance, and its usage and storage (although indoors) in a salt-heavy environment scares me to death of what other "surprises" I mind find.

I suppose time and some more digging in will tell.

Thank you once again Fenlander!!

Sorry for the rant haha.. cheers!!

ps. a link would probably be useful (:

https://www.boats.net/catalog/suzuki.../cylinder-head

[Da_q-ban_one]

Also, for those interested, here is the actual software and link I purchased on ebay.
It is called a Professional SUZUKI Outboard Boat Diagnostic Kit Cable Interface USB SDS 8.4 and although pricey, it comes with the software in a USB format, which for those that currently use a PC/laptop without an optical drive to read the CD, might be useful:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Professiona...-/324236339565

[Fenlander]

Just to pick up on two aspects...

Most important is are you sure now you know this is a 2013 build motor that it’s an efi type like mine was or is it a carb type?

Re the valve cover metal gasket that will come off to check the valve gaps and it’s an odd single use seal being thin metal with a raised ridge along the sealing faces area which compresses when fitted.

[Da_q-ban_one]

Yes, I am now certain it is a 2014 model based on the badge with stamped SN on the transom bracket. I then found a stamp on the powerhead containing the Mfg date (Aug 2013).

And yes, I purchased the correct raised lip metal gasket. I don't know what/how to check for the valve clearances, but I'm sure following your write up and shop manual, I'll be able to successfully check my valve clearances.

Once again, thank you kindly my good sir!!

[Fenlander]

So is it a fuel injection model for certain?

[Da_q-ban_one]

Yes, it is an EFI model.

[Fenlander]

Ahh that's good. I wasn't sure of the change over date but seem to remember someone having one over here that was 2012 and had a carb.

[Ferryman]

For most engines under 10 years old, the flush port is fine. Mine for example is a Verado and Mercury advise that the engine is flushed using the port rather than muffs. On some older engines, I believe they should be warm so that the thermostat is open?
As others have said, it should look brand new under the cover.
I know you have freshwater options to play in boats but in the UK, we pretty much only have the sea or a couple of lochs in Scotlandland. Your engine was definitely designed for saltwater!!

[Da_q-ban_one]

So does that mean that if there is any amount of rust under the cowl, it is a sign of neglect?
From my understanding, previous owner had it stored in a beach house in northern Mexico, so it would only get used when they were visiting or on vacation, and sat undisturbed for the last few years, as his dinghy came unglued. From the photos and videos he showed me, the beachouse was only a few hundred meters/yards from the ocean; and I know this from experience, that kind of salty environment will get at EVERYTHING, no matter how carefully one attempts to wash/hose things down with fresh water.
However, given that it was more of a leisurely pastime to use it while playing on the beach, there's a high possibility of an instance or two in which it got put away after a quick hose down, but little or no care was put into washing things down inside the cowling and spraying a protective water displacing coat of lubricant or other protectant. That is what I suspect, because it truly looks really good otherwise, both aesthetically as well as mechanically (from what little I've been able to tell).
As soon as I am able to hook up to diagnostics and get further into the lower unit and impeller, I'll be able to tell more. But so far it looks good, except for a few nuts, bolts and washers that have a bit of rust. I'll show some pics this week, on my days off.
Thanks for the input ��*♂️

[Ferryman]

It’s probably fine, a bit of the US equivalent of WD40 or similar under the cowl maybe.
They do usually stay like new though, even if the boat’s kept afloat. I’d check the seal around the cover when you service it anyway.
I doubt rust is a big issue in Phoenix!

[Da_q-ban_one]

No thankfully not a worry at all but I do plan on taking it down fishing in Mexico at some point.

Were you referring to the main engine/cowling (plastic) cover or the valve/cylinder head cover?

If the plastic cowling seal was ripped/damaged I haven't noticed it, but I will inspect it closer.

[Fenlander]

Now you've bought it I'd not worry too much because as you say hopefully this is just due to it being in a near to the sea environment. You'll soon get an idea of the internal passageways condition when you pull the internal anode housing out.... and the diagnostics will reveal any engine issues.

Like you mention after saltwater use as well as flushing an outboard with motor running I give the outside a soapy wash and *very* gently run water over the under cowl area avoiding soaking electrics. I then run until its dried off and us a WD40 type spray over all the under cowl areas. This seems to keep them in really nice condition.

[goldeneye243]

Does anybody know what the function of the spring like thing on the outboard is for??

Sorry if off topic!