Suggestions on turning tiller into Remote. (steering)

[Mr-d]

Hi,
I am now a soon to be proud owner of a half beaten up old Mercury control box! (still waiting for parts to arrive for outboard....)
So, i was thinking of making a jockey..... nice little project to do for fun!
Any suggestions on what type of steering to get? Hydraulic? Cable?
As its only a 20 horse, it does not need a big/heavy system..But however i would like to be able to let go of the wheel, and still go in a straight line!

Any brand suggestions? or even dealers? where can i get a good steering system? How much am i looking at?

Im planning on combining the Remote with the tiller so i can still use it... but yet use the remote when i want to! (i believe this is possible)

Just imagine the value i could add to my boat by making it with a console!!

Thanks,
Daniel.

[Pete7]

Daniel, start searching the on line chandlers as they do a kit for about £99 with everything in it. However you need to work out what length of steering cable you need first.

The console (and boy am i asking for it mentioning consoles ) would make a good winter project, do a search on here.

Pete

[The Jackeens]

Originally Posted by Pete7

boy am i asking for it mentioning consoles
Pete

that's one great console alright.

Actually it's a party RIB what with the fridge an all

Us

[Rogue Wave]

hydraulic steering would be a waste of time on a 20 I think.

[Nasher]

I think if you want to use the tiller as well, then Hydraulics are definatly out. trying to move the ram won't turn the wheel/displace fluid, where as with a cable system you've got a chance.

Anyway, as Stuart said its not really required on a 20HP.

I'd do as mentioned already, get a cable kit from an online chandler for the steering, and break out the fibreglass over the winter.
I've made some pretty good boxes etc using moulds made from Corrugated cardboard.
If you find some big boxes that have two or three ply corrugated and have glossy printed coated paper laminated (Litholam for the initiated) to it then you can gaffer tape up the shape you want and spray it with cooking oil as a release agent. Helps to put in some bulkheads to strenghten it.

Good luck

Nasher.

[Mr-d]

20 HP or 220 HP, it will still look great! (not to mention the value added to the boat...)

Anyway, Do you think if i would develop my own console/jockey arrangement, that i could be sued for breeching copyright laws? Patents etc?

If i come up with a nice jockey mould, and could perhaps make one every now and then i could make a few to sell off, might actually work (if i can get them solid enough...)

Another question, how/where do i find a tachometer that would be universal, all i know is that the Hz is how often the flywheel goes round, and it could work off that! (just a ordinary 12V cable)
Ideas?

Thanks,
Daniel.

[Tim M]

I don't think you'd really have any trouble with patents with something like that.

As for the tacho, is there such a things a universal one?

[Mr-d]

They should be "Normal" Each time the fly wheel spins round, it changes the polarity round (AC) and that means that was one revolution...

All i need is a 0-6000RPM 12V Tach with 100rpm increcements (according to my manual)

Anyone have any idea where i can find one? Google is giving me a hard time!

Thanks,
Daniel.

[Mr-d]

Pete, or anyone who knows a bit about jockeys... i've just been thinking my "plan" through of making a mould... there is just one thing im cought on so far...

I am planning to make a single seater console/jockey.... with 2 partitions storage... IF i make the partitions accesible from the top (by lifting off the cushion) what happens if i accidently get water in there?! the logic response would be "DUH, make some holes to let it drain!" however... that will mean any water on the deck could get in... fitting a pump is a bit extreme....
what is the solution to this? (dont take your boat out on the water?)
i know you can get watertight locker doors, but they are quite pricy... and that would kind off make this experiment pointless...

Also, for reinforcement, wood coated all round by fiberglass, or perhaps steel? or maybe even aluminium... ideas?

[Bill S]

Mr-d,

Do an advanced search, search title for "Useful Tacho"

Mine works great and cost £30 in total.

Bill

[Erin]

I wouldn't worry too much about water getting in. I've got hatches on the sides of my seats which aren't waterproof, but it only takes a sponge to mop out any water that does get in. Only seems to happen when the rain is coming from a certain angle. Hmmm west coast of scotland.... quite a lot of rain.... perhaps a top spec hatch would be worthwhile .

As far as reinforcement goes, I don't think you need to beef the console up with anything. However, it is worth including a few offcuts of ply in strategic places so that you can screw things in place on the inside with self tappers.

And as far as steering goes, you want a 'no feedback' (NFB) steering wheel. It shouldn't turn unless you are actually turning it. Not sure how this works if you want to keep your tiller operational though. I don't think hydraulic is needed unless you can get one really cheap, they're about £300 new

[ADS]

I know everyone is going to disagree with me here but I am going to mention it anyway...
Mr D
If you are planning to resort back to tiller occasionally I wouldnt recommend using cable/teleflex type steering because it is effectively un-detachable. Secondly, I would'nt recommend hydraulic steering for your boat because it is too expensive and you wouldnt notice the benefits with 20HP.
What I would do is rig up 'washing line' steering with wire and pulleys then it would be easy to detatch and wouldnt cost a fortune. I wouldnt use it with over 25HP beacause of the torque from the engine but it would be OK for you - I have used it sucessfully on a dory with a 15HP.

Basically you have two pulleys attatched to your transom in the corners (on the inside of the boat) then you thread the wire through these and attatch it to either side of the engine (some have a front handle). On a RIB/ SIB it is best to have a thwart or a seat branching all the way accross the boat in the middle and to have two further pulleys attatched under the seat. On top of this seat you have a steering wheel with a shaft on some sort of holder and the both ends of the wire are attatched to the shaft (wire must be tight). When you turn the wheel the wire winds round the shaft therfore turning the engine.

How many people are still awake!

[Mr-d]

sounds like a DIY idea
It sounds alright in theory, but im not to keen on making holes in my transom, and i want it to look remotely professional rather than DIY...
i suppose i could feed both ropes through one tube... i think im going to try this! all i need is a steering wheel...

Thanks for the low cost solution approach!, Much appreciated!

[ADS]

Mr D, it is a bit of a DIY approach but I know several people who use it, one has a dory with a 15HP Mariner and the other has a speedboat with a 35HP! I have driven the speedboat and its fine obviously you can feel the power in the engine coming out of a corner but providing you dont do anything stupid its easily controllable.
With reference to drilling holes in the transom does your boat have D rings on the back? If so you could just attatch another D ring on the inside using the same bolts and holes.

Good luck

Alex

[Mr-d]

Yep, they are not D rings, but they are ring rings.. (must have been done by someone before i had it..) however, i dont think they are on the right spot..

As for the steering now, i have a "Drag" control on the steering, If i tighten it up, its a pain in the !*U# to turn it when going slow, but nice to turn at speed (it does not pull) if i make it looser, its great to go slow.. but at high speed it tries to rip the tiller out of your hand, and every tiny adjustment you make by accident is felt.... Maybe you should Patent the idea