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Old 04 July 2004, 11:17   #1
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Rusty bolts!!

Was going to do a little mod to the steering, but when I took a little closer look found that some crittical nuts/studs where well rusted, I say crittical because if I break one off I'll have to stip a large proportion of the engine to gain access to the steering arm, either to replace or repair it.

Question: Anyone got some good tips for cracking nuts/bolts without snapping them.

PS they are in an awkward position, so pouring coke on isn't an option.

Andy
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Old 04 July 2004, 11:51   #2
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A well fitting spanner preferaably the right size and a generous helping of heat will sort that one out. Anything on a boat looks worse than it actualy is.Alan P
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Old 04 July 2004, 14:05   #3
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A tight fitting ring spanner or socket would be best. Open ended spanners are more likely to slip and round the nut off. Heat and a sharp hit on the arm of the spanner should help.
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Old 04 July 2004, 15:30   #4
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The only way quik fit could get my exhaust off last time was with a blowtorch, and your bolt looks similar, so same advice as above!

Ricky (slightly pissed after the post wimbledon party!)
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Old 04 July 2004, 16:09   #5
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Not a whole lot of hexagon left I'm afraid and am pretty sure that any spanner used will just make things worse, to make it even more difficult I can't even get a mole grip or small pipe wrench on because of the restricted space. Keep the Idea's comming though!
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Old 04 July 2004, 16:26   #6
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Don't know if you can reach in this case, but when faced with rounded off nuts or bolt heads, one of my favorite tricks is to carefully weld a much larger nut over the old one, or weld a new bolt to the head of the old one. Expect lots of spitting back on rusty items.

This serves two purposes, firstly the application of heat may release the nut/bolt, and secondly you end up with fresh surfaces with more leverage.

Works even better if you can flash cool the hot nut with water as the shock sometimes frees it off.

Obviously this is not possible where heat will damage surrounding areas, and of course no where near the fuel line please.

Its worked for me many times, but I'm lucky to have my own welding gear.

Good luck

Nasher.
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Old 04 July 2004, 17:05   #7
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Er, may I suggest an angle grinder. Grind away two sides of the nut and the bits left will just tap off. You could also grind away the ends of the studs because you only need a nut length of thread when you replace them.
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Old 05 July 2004, 00:26   #8
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Snap On make a tool called a torque socket (clever little gadget, it is like an external stud extractor). It fits on the end of a standard socket set so access should be no problem - but they are expensive - do you have any good friends who are mechanics?
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Old 05 July 2004, 01:45   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitten
Snap On make a tool called a torque socket (clever little gadget, it is like an external stud extractor). It fits on the end of a standard socket set so access should be no problem - but they are expensive - do you have any good friends who are mechanics?
Following on from what Kittens suggested... i bought a socket attachment in Halfords called a "Gattor grip" its a large socket that fits a normal socket drive but instead of the hex shaped inside it has small pins that retract up when fitted over the damaged nut head, this means it fits exactly to the shape of the nut head or in your case badly corroded nut head......and this thing does actually work, i removed corroded bolts from an engine heat shield of a car with this and to my amazement the gattor gripped them perfectly and didn't snapp the heads of the bolts.
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Old 05 July 2004, 02:04   #10
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May I (respectfully) suggest that you don't use naked flame or grinding sparks around your boat/engine unless absolutely necessary ? The photo seems to show a nut, so try a tool for the job called, funnily enough, a nut splitter. Low tech, but very effective and will not damage the stud/bolt thread. You can buy them from any good tool factors (and Halfords I think- from their SykesPickevant range). Good to keep in the tool box.

Good luck, Jono
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Old 05 July 2004, 03:40   #11
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Make sure the socket you use (my reccomendation) is a hex socket rather than the usual bi-hex (12 point) as they are more likely to slip on a rusted, reduced size nut....So, a good quality, six sided socket, after plenty of easing oil such as WD40, or plus gas, soaked over a day or two.
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Old 05 July 2004, 04:39   #12
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Andy
Clean off the exposed threads first. No point in trying to scrape all thet rust off as you undo the nut.
Plus Gas applied for several days before will make it much easier to move.
A nut splitter is the best route but it looks if the bolts may be too close to get one on.
My chosen method, if this were my problem, would be a sharp 1/2" cold chisel and a 12oz hammer. Either split along the bolt, or from the side to cut a notch and tap the nut round to unscrew it.
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Old 05 July 2004, 05:19   #13
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Yet another method, you can split the nut with a dremel and a tiny cutting disc.

But IMHO, cleaning the crud off and using a socket as detailed by mr fuller would be a good, non destructive, starting point.
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Old 05 July 2004, 14:40   #14
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Hello,
something I have tried in the past is to put a series of drill holes down the side of the nut, 2 to 3mm. Be careful not to damage the stud threads too much. Then hopefully that will relax the nut enough to get it off, if not then get a medium screwdriver and hammer and tap the remaining metal in between the holes.
nick.
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Old 05 July 2004, 16:02   #15
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Wow what a great response, thanks everybody. I was thinking about this problem at work today, trying to think of a cheat!

What I'm trying to achieve is to exploit my outboards turning capabilities by moving the linkage nut towards the pivot point, 50mm should do it. I am also looking on equalling the steering from left to right (turns harder to starboard at mo). I thought at the weekend that I'd like to remove the bracket complete and replace with something new, but I couldn't face the consequences if it all went wrong, so what I suggest is this:



I am going to manufacture a piece of stainless with a female profile cut out to fit exactly on the end of the steering arm (this will stop the arm moving sideways), I will bolt this in place. The linkage arm from the remotes will then bolt exactly where I want without resorting to a possible engine strip. I will then if I'm not completely satisfied with the installation attempt the bolt removal during the winter months.


Thanks all,

Andy
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