Problems Removing Lower Leg

Andy JC · 24 March 2008, 21:05

Thought I'd replace the impeller on a 25hp Evinrude ('89) I've recently bought but I'm having trouble getting the leg the drop.

I've removed the 6 upward facing bolts, the nut on the stud attached to the lower leg as well as the gear linkage but it seems reluctant to budge. The manual I've got doesn't show that there's anything else required so I'm not sure whether I've missed something out or if it's just being a stubborn son of a bitch

My guess is that it might be holding on due to corrosion around the stud as it's this side that seems to be causing the problem, the back (prop) end has come away ok. I've tried WD40 on the stud and a rubber mallet but the anti-cavitation plate started to bend

Does anybody have any tips on removing the leg without causing damage to it??

I've posted a couple of pics, the first one I've circled the stud where I think the corrosion has formed
The second I've marked a phillips head screw next to the oil drain plug which I'm unsure of it's purpose, I took it out and it doesn't want to go back in... any suggestions?

Bertus · 24 March 2008, 21:40

Hello Andy,

Had the same problem with a evin 90 yr 92. Yes there is corrosion, we also had corrosion between the axle and crankshaft but also the white aluminum oxide in the tale. Let wd40 soak for a few days and use 2 (in english i think) swivels and a hammer. where there is some space use a wide swivel to separate but with caution. and with a nice tap of the hammer and wigle and wagle . then there is minor damage to the surfaces what is acceptable and can be repaid or remodeled

Andy JC · 24 March 2008, 23:09

Thanks for the advice Bertus, I just wondered if there were any 'tricks of the trade' for this problem. I assume outboard engineers must come up against this problem quite regularly.

Wonder what an Evinrude dealer would have done if I'd taken it in for a service, wouldn't have thought they'd wait for a few days for the WD40 to work

Just found out what the other screw is, it's the shift lever pivot pin I believe. Any tips for getting it back in? Can I just move the gear linkage up and down?

Poly · 25 March 2008, 08:47

Andy - you probably don't want WD40 for this job. Try searching the forum for something like "siezed" and you should find lots of threads with various suggestions for better "release agents" (including ordinary diesel) as well as how a little heat might help "crack" the problem.

Nos4r2 · 25 March 2008, 13:32

Check your PM box andy.

Locozodiac · 25 March 2008, 15:49

Just found out what the other screw is, it's the shift lever pivot pin I believe. Any tips for getting it back in? Can I just move the gear linkage up and down? [/QUOTE]

If moving the linkage up/down doesn't work, you have messed it up, probably will have to disarm the whole prop transmision to make the screw fit to whatever it was bolted to. This is a important screw owners should never remove.

Start collecting cash for the dealer tu put back into factory position...

Brake fluid is nice to loose rusted seized parts.

Happy Boatiing.

9D280 · 27 March 2008, 13:37

I've had the same story on a '72 vintage Johnsorude. I also have the slightly bent cav plate to show for it...... It does now turn a lot better to port than starboard though!

We used heat and waggling after a week of WD40 didn't look at it. If it makes you feel any better, We also managed to shear the head off one of the other bolts holding it together because it was so corroded.

Locozodiac · 27 March 2008, 23:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andyboy

The second I've marked a phillips head screw next to the oil drain plug which I'm unsure of it's purpose, I took it out and it doesn't want to go back in... any suggestions?

Talked to my mechanic about your removed screw problem, tellls me that you have to drain completely all leg/tail oil, the screw removed is a screw/pin type. Illuminate the hole with a lantern and try to align/center the shift lever pivot mechanism hole with a pin tool, phillips screwdriver, etc, maybe playing up & down with the gear lever a bit will help. Once centerd, screw in until the pin aligns with the shift lever hole. Tight screw.
Good luck!

Happy Boating

Andy JC · 27 March 2008, 23:15

Finally managed to drop the leg after a sh*t load of brute force, lots of WD40, some major screwdriver/hammer action and a little bit of diesel (as suggested on here)

Also managed to get the whole thing back together today after some crucial telephone support (cheers Nos

) - seriously though thanks for your help Matt, I think it's doubtful it would have been in the water today had I been left to my own devices... I owe you a pint(or 5!)

Was happy with the way the motor went today, pumping pleanty of water and a decent amount of power. Only slight problem is that where I had to butcher the seal between the leg and the mid section it's now blowing more bubbles(exhaust) than it should - any suggestions on sealing it??

Andy JC · 27 March 2008, 23:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locozodiac

maybe playing up & down with the gear lever a bit will help. Once centerd, screw in until the pin aligns with the shift lever hole. Tight screw.

Thats exactly how I did it, thanks for the advice anyways

Andy JC · 31 March 2008, 18:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Andyboy

Only slight problem is that where I had to butcher the seal between the leg and the mid section it's now blowing more bubbles(exhaust) than it should - any suggestions on sealing it??

Any suggestions??

Limey Linda · 31 March 2008, 18:56

I would drop the leg, say 1/4 inch and sqeeze a thin bead of non hardening auomotive gasket goo in and retighten Loktite makes a suitable product called liquid gasket I think.

Nos4r2 · 31 March 2008, 21:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

I would drop the leg, say 1/4 inch and sqeeze a thin bead of non hardening auomotive gasket goo in and retighten Loktite makes a suitable product called liquid gasket I think.

Yeah. One of the few apps I'd use Blue Hylomar for.

Limey Linda · 31 March 2008, 21:57

Andyboy
Just an afterthought. When you drop the leg a bit make sure there is no upward/downward surface bruising that will prevent it seating properly. If so then run a fine file over to dress them down. All surfaces need to be flat to get a good seal. Hylomar is a good product. I suspect that Nos is experienced with fitting motorbike engine covers.

Andy JC · 31 March 2008, 22:13

Will follow advice offered, thanks guys.

Nos4r2 · 31 March 2008, 22:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by Limey Linda

I suspect that Nos is experienced with fitting motorbike engine covers.

Yep, and I won't use blue hylomar for it...awful stuff. Bits get in the oil. I use red for that-or Stag Well-Seal on bad cases.

Limey Linda · 31 March 2008, 23:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Yep, and I won't use blue hylomar for it...awful stuff. Bits get in the oil. I use red for that-or Stag Well-Seal on bad cases.

I know what you mean about bits. Always used a sheet of thin brown paper. tapped out a gasket and used grease.

9D280 · 01 April 2008, 15:49

....or if you're feeling rich, Halfords do (did?) "proper" gasket paper.

doggypaddle · 01 April 2008, 19:15

cornflakes box has held the oil in the landrover gearbox for years now

m chappelow · 08 April 2008, 10:41

if things get really stuck with corrosion i soak it in diesel for a few days ,problem with penetrating oil is it evaporates after a while.