outch! DT65

[jvb]

almost all good now.

got it installed now including the tilt unit.

drove already and all works.

only thing i cant get to work is the electric choke. the seller ensures it was working at his.

is there a written help somewhere on how to check the wiring?

also looking at my history i want to make
sure the revs are displayed properly/warning sound works.

also here a wiring advice would be very helpful.
best
jan

[9D280]

Choke:

If you get a length of wire, disconnect the choke solenoid form the loom, then use the wire to connect direct to the +12 from the battery. It should "click". then repeat and follow back through the loom to the switch. Other option is to squirt some contact cleaner into the multi-pin plug, and. or clean them. Did it work on your old engine? (I assume you haven't changed the control box)

[jvb]

Originally Posted by 9D280

Choke:

If you get a length of wire, disconnect the choke solenoid form the loom, then use the wire to connect direct to the +12 from the battery. It should "click". then repeat and follow back through the loom to the switch. Other option is to squirt some contact cleaner into the multi-pin plug, and. or clean them. Did it work on your old engine? (I assume you haven't changed the control box)

thanks mate,
i will try this now.
engine side worked due to seller, remote side worked on my end too. so its probably the wiring. i try the short cutting - hope i don't burn any fuses...

[TomKat]

Not sure if its a common problem but on my DT55 the choke wire was separate from the loom - presumably due to a break in the multicore cable. As above, very easy to test it by bypassing everything and jumping it direct.

[njensen]

best pitch for my DT65 and SR4.7 was 14" (stainless).
16" inch was ok for normal cruising without too much load.

[jvb]

thanks guys!
choke works now.
whe oil was just a bit hard after all. the sprungs to lift it up again seem also quite weak.
but it works ok now.

got some problems in adjusting the wires for the gas and gears.
reverse comes in nicely. a bit hard maybe. but forward is troublesome.

[jvb]

Originally Posted by jvb

thanks guys!
choke works now.
whe oil was just a bit hard after all. the sprungs to lift it up again seem also quite weak.
but it works ok now.

got some problems in adjusting the wires for the gas and gears.
reverse comes in nicely. a bit hard maybe. but forward is troublesome.

it needs quite some movement in the remote to finally snap in forward gear. this then obviously has a lot of throttle already
and the boat tends to jump forward.
if i move the lever slowl it snares and snares.

i tried adjusting the remote wires as short as possible. but i dont want to go shorter then a tight wire in neutral/neutral (remote/engine).

is this a remote problem or a clutch problem?

[Downhilldai]

Sounds like the clutch dog is worn out.

[jvb]

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Sounds like the clutch dog is worn out.

is this a tricky part to change/repair?
where is it located?

please don't tell me far inside the safe...

[Downhilldai]

Easy enough - you need to pull out the propeller shaft, dismantle the components, fit a new clutch dog to the shaft, rebuild and re-fit. No shimming needed, unless the forward gear is also worn, where the clutch dog engages.

[jvb]

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Easy enough - you need to pull out the propeller shaft, dismantle the components, fit a new clutch dog to the shaft, rebuild and re-fit. No shimming needed, unless the forward gear is also worn, where the clutch dog engages.

great, i hate shimming...
so if i get part 18 and 19 exchanged it should go fine again..?

[Downhilldai]

Well, it's likely to be that, but you need to check the engagement in the forward gear, as that may also be worn.
I'd also change the O ring, no. 26.

Before stripping it, drain the oil out & check for debris in the oil, also do a pressure test to check for leaking seals.

Tip: when pulling out the propshaft, don't be tempted to turn the bearing carrier and tap the lugs for the 2 bolts that hold it onto the gear casing as they will (not may) snap off.