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Old 15 November 2003, 14:31   #1
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outboard winterization

hi guys&galls,
Could any one please tell me the correct way to winterize my mariner 40 hp outboard, i understand that you can spray some kind of long lasting lube into the cly via the spark plug holes?, are there any lubes that you can recommend or can you use ww40 etc. the engine is permanantly attatched to my sea rider whitch is stored in my garage, so is not subject to the weather extremes
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Old 15 November 2003, 20:30   #2
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Hello,

You need to buy some stuff called Storage Seal, YOu can get it from you local Mariner/ Mercury Dealer. What you do is run the engine with the fuel line disconected and with the carb butterfly exposed. As the engine starts to get low on fuel (look at the filter to see it go down) Spray the storage seal into the carb until it stalls.
Then take the plugs out a spray a little into each cylinder.


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Old 16 November 2003, 08:21   #3
tue
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I agree with diesel with the stuff to use but don't wait till its runnung low on fuel. As soon as you disconnect the fuel line start sraying the stuff through the carbs. Make sure you have the engine running at fast idle 1500-2000rpm. The result should be the engine begin to bog down and eventually die, producing loads of thick fog like smoke (hence the knickname fogging oil). You shouldn't need to put any extra through plug holes if you get enough in through carbs.

Note. If you have multiple carbs you will need to alternate spraying between them.
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Old 16 November 2003, 20:44   #4
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Well maybe, but the main reason for letting the fuel get low is to empty the fuel system of fuel, so that the carb is not full of fuel while its sat over the winter.
2 Stroke mixed fuel will go off over a period and it leaves a sticky brown sludge in the carb which can bloke the jets up.
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Old 17 November 2003, 01:48   #5
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fog stuff?

Not to be contrary, but I wonder if Fog Juice is a money-maker for someone more than a help to an engine. 2-cycles are by nature a tad oily inside already. I ran both a 15 and a 115 hp 2-stroke Evinrude for about 14 years each and never once fogged either one. I don't now fog my 25 hp Yamaha, either. All I ever do is put a bit of alcohol-based gas treatment into the tank and run it a bit. I NEVER run a 2-cycle till it is dieing of starvation, because the oil goes away with the gas; why run one dry of oil? My engines sit outside all winter (most of 8 months) and get as cold as 55 below. I have never had Problem One starting with "old" gas in the spring, either. I fill the tanks full before winter so they don't get condensation in them and pop in new plugs nearly every spring. Maybe I've just been lucky??? Maybe it is our low humidity??? Just a comment. john
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Old 17 November 2003, 08:44   #6
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why run one dry of oil?

The idea is to empty the carbs of fuel which if left over the winter turn initially into a chewing gum substance which then hardens to a varnish and requires a strip of the carbs and reed valves to cure.

2 Stroke Mercs and Mariners mix the oil with the fuel however Yams and I think Suz have separate oil injection which goes directly into the the air intakes and crank cases so won't sufer from the engine stalling through lack of fuel.

Perhaps the best way to drain carbs though is to undo the brass screws at the bottom of each carb and allow the fuel to run out completely.


Or buy a nice big diesel

Pete
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Old 17 November 2003, 09:22   #7
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Hi All

I intend to use my merc four stroke at least once a month during winter , what if any protection of the engine is required,?
other than not leaving the battery on board ,
any views welcome ,
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Old 17 November 2003, 14:29   #8
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Me too.....

Being from the "North" where men are men and not from the South where boys are called "Phil" and winterize their RIBS in September.....sorry Aligator just a bit of an in joke....but seriously...I'll also be using my rib throughout the winter just as I did last year when the thermometer just 20ft away from my engine read -6 degrees Celsius on more than one ocassion. Throughout last winter I was in some ways overly cautious. Firstly, I ran my engine through with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze after each run. This alone consumed about 20 litres which at £5.99 for a 5 ltr bottle ran to the grand sum of £20.00. Next, I purchased a water tank blanket (£15), you know the thing, big and red like a sleeping bag, which, I wrapped the engine in after each trip. Yes it looked daft but I slept well each night !!! Some people go on about condensation in the fuel tanks (mines a 120ltr inboard) but this never seemed to effect me ! Good luck, have fun and see you on the water where it'll be quiet due to all those Southerners sat in watching Eastenders. Ohhh, "Battery"....I fitted a high quality marine grade isolator but never removed the battery itself, it fired her up first time nearly every time..
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Old 17 November 2003, 14:46   #9
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Four Stokes are alot easier, No need to use storage seal, Get some Fuel stabilzer put it the fuel tank (as per instruction) and run it for about ten minutes in fresh water.

Then if its long term storage.....
Take the plugs out and put a little oil in each cylinder, turn the flywheel over manually a few times to get the oil on the cylinders, then put the plugs back in.
Put a bit of anti corrosion stuff on the powerhead ( Corrosion Guard).
Change the Gear oil.
If the engine is coming off the boat make sure its kept upright to stop any water from going up the leg into the powerhead.
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Old 17 November 2003, 19:51   #10
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seaskimmer
Take it to PA Lynch in Morpeth, he will service it (that costs) and winterise it (that bit doesn't) and you will sleep soundly knowing it has been well tended to.
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Old 17 November 2003, 20:05   #11
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many thanks ME ME & Diesel
I leave the engine trimmed down as i was under the impression that the water drains out after flushing the fact that you use antifreeze to flush through MeMe now gives me doubts as to wether this is so!
and yes I like being a soft southern ba... the souther the warmer the better as far as im concerned but i do own and once wore a big coat .(with mittens)

Alistair
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Old 17 November 2003, 21:33   #12
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Just get your drysuit on and get out there you bunch of southern softies! Then you don't need to winterise!

Find a friendly sailing club with a winter series and offer to do safety duty.

Oh and Wales won by three tries to one by the way - when did England last cross the line.....
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Old 19 November 2003, 14:15   #13
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well gang thanks for the advice, went to the local chandelry(power house marine!), and came a way £32 lighter after buying a veritable collection of engine care products ie:
gear oil, fogging spray,spark plugs, marine grease,engine lube,petrol treatment,gaskets.
if the thing doe,s not start first time in the spring then i want my money back?



regards
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Old 19 November 2003, 14:17   #14
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Don't forget...

wheel clamp, engine lock and if you're as mad as me, take a wheel off and put the axle on bricks as having spent all that dosh on making sure it'll start next season, you want it to still be there !!!!
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Old 04 February 2006, 20:27   #15
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DE winterize MY YAM 6HP

Hi,
I am new too boating and engines,
I bought a 16ft Arron complete with a yamaha 6hp 2004 model,
the engine is fully winterized can anyone tell me what i need to do too de-winterized the engine and and what is involved.
thank you.
Mike.
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Old 05 February 2006, 13:02   #16
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Winterize

Glad you brought some fuel treatment it saves running carbs dry, and will keep fuel stable if already mixed.

Paul
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Old 05 February 2006, 16:26   #17
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hi i have a yam 10hp 2 stroke in august i mixed a full tank 5 gals petrol and 2 stroke i havent used it yet the engines in the garage will this be ok to use stedj
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Old 05 February 2006, 17:58   #18
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fuel

Simple answer NO
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Old 05 February 2006, 18:16   #19
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Stick it in the lawn mower, then if you break down half way down the garden you won't have to call the RNLI.
Not really worth risking it in something that is your only means of propulsion.
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Old 05 February 2006, 18:21   #20
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the lawn mower is a 4 st
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