How did you do it ?, we have a similar lock on our sailing club rescue boat that has to come off, as the motor has moved on the transom after a road tow to take it for a service.
We have what we think is the key, it turns but the lock part stays put !, like you we have soaked it in oil for a couple of weeks.
I may just take the grinder to it, as rib handling has gone to pot and it needs sorting asap, by resetting the motor on the transom.
Not worried about cutting the lock off if thats the only way as the OB leg is chained down to the ground for insurance purposes when the rib is stored on land in the club compound.
I managed to slowly force the end cap off. I couldn't turn the key and pull it off at the same time. I had to use tool to get it off. I will try and add a photo as when I was trying to remove it, I was never actually sure how it worked. It was on the boat since I brought it.
If that doesn't work I would drill the lock barrel.
Thanks, what is inside once you have the lock part out ?, allen head ?.
If I had to resort to the mini grinder: would this cause any difficulty further down the line in removal ?.
I want to try and do it to save the club calling the OB mechanic out, as he charges £120, if I can cut it off and reset the motor its free and they just have to find the money for a new lock.
Mine was the normal bolt head, matching the others The cylinder lock just prevents you being able to undo the bolt. It literally is just an encasing over the bolt. The socket for it should fit down the inside of the cylinder.
I would try drilling the lock first. From experience of doing other locks it seems to work.
If you grind it just don't do it too close to the transom. You could hit the bolt and ruin it.
Here in the states I use PB Blaster instead of wd40 for stuck or seized metal parts so much better than wd40. Not sure if available at B&Q, home base or autoparts stotes but appears available on amazon uk.
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