oils and props

[Rupert Bear]

My manual specifies ATF and Sae 90 for trim and gearbox respectively. Are these likely to be normal ATF and Sae 90 (ie car stuff) The manual doesn't specify specific grades other than this, not even a recommendation to use Yamaha xyz (and its their manual)
I am also considering buying a SS prop. After talking to Steel Dev today the advice was that if my alloy was matched to the boat I buy the same pitch in SS. I thought that the SS ones had to be slightly larger pitched? Or have I picked that up somewhere wrong?

[Alan]

Originally Posted by Rupert Bear

I am also considering buying a SS prop. After talking to Steel Dev today the advice was that if my alloy was matched to the boat I buy the same pitch in SS. I thought that the SS ones had to be slightly larger pitched? Or have I picked that up somewhere wrong?

A stainless prop will "flex" less than an alloy one so in effect by keeping the same pitch you actual go up a little bit in pitch if that makes sense! S/S props also possibly allow you to run the engine higher out of the water than ali which might mean you can go up a pitch. BUT, since steel dev. know much more about props than most I would follow their advice if I were yoU!

[DJL]

Marine oils tend to boast they have been designed for the marine environment and have special additives to combat corrosion etc. How true that is I don’t know, however the marine variants don’t seem to be much more expensive than a ‘decent’ automotive oil so I always get the marine stuff. Otherwise, yes you can use anything you like as long as it meets the specified standards.

[jwalker]

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid so that one is easy. I've always used Hypoid SAE 90, sourced from the motor factors, without problem. About £10 for 5lts.

[Pete7]

If you are changing gearbox oil then you will need some sort of filling thingy or have to use the tubes that the outboard engine manufacturers sell because an outboard gearbox must be filled from the bottom with the top plug removed so the air can escape. This ensures that there are no air pockets as the oil is forced up as you squeeze the tube. I think you are going to need 3 tubes and its a messy job because you will have to take an empty tube out and have the next ready to go straight in to the hole or the oil runs out. Prep everything, drip tray and lots of rags.

It is a DIY job and only takes a couple of minutes. Clean the plugs when you take them out because they have magnets to remove swarf.

Good luck

Pete

[Pete7]

Why change the hydraulic trim oil ? thats a really 'orrible job. Don't take the plug out whilst the trim is under pressure, hydraulic oil will go everywhere.

Pete