New Dive RIB Engine

[Chris]

Great choice !

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by HelmGuy

Thanks for all your input guys. The dive club's commitee decided on a new 150hp Evinrude 2-stroke in the end so looking forward to getting it installed and seeing what it can do.

We have our current 2-stroke up for sell on ebay: Yamaha 140 V4 Outboard Engine Complete 1989 | eBay

Look after the fuel system, make sure you have 3/8 id hose & a good water separating filter (Racor) Make sure that the battery is a good'un & that the battery teminals are tight with good solid connections. DO NOT use wing nuts on the battery terminals, use stainless Nylocs or Aerotites. Many EMM failures are caused by loose/poor battery connections. Similarly if you have double batteries or a 2 way changeover switch, make sure the switch is a good quality one & don't operate it with the engine running. Shop around for the XD100, it can be found much cheaper than the scare stories will have you believe especially if you buy 6 cans at a time. Set to the XD100 setting, the engine will use next to 'eff all. Certainly a lot cheaper than paying for 100 hour servicing on a 4s. My boat was originally built for diving (I don't do much these days) & we have spent HOURS at idle. My missus used to skipper for me & was paranoid about switching off the engines, I was diving mixed gas & would be in the water for 2-4 hours at a time & she'd just sit there ticking away. The engines use 0.7l/hr at tickover & are so quiet you have to look at the tacho to see if they're running. Don't forget to buy another hat, the first time you bury the throttle (that is from new out of the box, no running in or 10 hour service) you'll lose the hat over the side & have a humungous grin.
Enjoy

[Jeff]

The Club will notice a REAL difference I am sure - power and fuel economy !!
Shame those Etecs are white though

Just to dispel any myths about oiling up Opti's - this is my current run hours profile. Opti 175 on a 6m Rib. Used mostly for 'diving'
Fitted 24 Jan 2009 so 4 years. I have never had any issues with plug fouling

Engine: MERCURY 175 DFI (2.5L) 1B417702 AND UP PCM07
Run History: Saturday, February 09, 2013 12:30 PM

Total Run Time 585.7 Hrs

Run Time Hrs RPM Range
320.8 0-749
77.6 750-1499
30.8 1500-2999
90.1 3000-3999
45.7 4000-4499
15.7 4500-4999
3.6 5000-5499
1.5 5500-6249
0.0 6250+


Enjoy the new toy

Jeff

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by Jeff

Shame those Etecs are white though

They come in dark blue as well. I wanted blue ones for BP but the white were in stock, I kinda like 'em now.

[willk]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

Many EMM failures are caused by loose/poor battery connections. Similarly if you have double batteries or a 2 way changeover switch, make sure the switch is a good quality one & don't operate it with the engine running.

That's very interesting PD. Did you hear that from an engineer or see it online? It would certainly explain what happened to mine - I had some bad experiences with poorly crimped battery cables...

IN one way, it's good to know as after the loss of two EMMs, I kinda soured on the whole Etec deal. That was the only problem I'd had with them.

[willk]

Originally Posted by Jeff

Shame those Etecs are white though

Give them a good spray of WD40 before use. Same to clean them. If you wax them beforehand, they clean off easily, even the soot stains

[Jeff]

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave

They come in dark blue as well. I wanted blue ones for BP but the white were in stock, I kinda like 'em now.

Have to admit - they did look good on yoiur beast when I saw you in Whitby some years ago

Still a bit Yankified though

[Pikey Dave]

Originally Posted by willk

That's very interesting PD. Did you hear that from an engineer or see it online? It would certainly explain what happened to mine - I had some bad experiences with poorly crimped battery cables...

IN one way, it's good to know as after the loss of two EMMs, I kinda soured on the whole Etec deal. That was the only problem I'd had with them.

The battery charging is handled by the EMM, the raw output from the alternator is fed into the EMM which rectifies & regulates it & feeds it back out to the batteries. If you connect/disconnect the batteries with the engine running, it can cause a surge in the regulator circuit that fries the charging section of the emm redering the whole lump useless. Personally I think it's a flaw putting a 10 bob regulator inside a sealed £1000 quid EMM. This is the reason behind the aversion to wingnuts on etec batteries. You can start & run an Etec without a battery, but if you connect & disconnect a battery once it's running, you risk nuking the brains. The first thing they asked when I rang up about mine was "do you have a 2 way battery switch fitted" which I don't. I still haven't been able to bottom my failure out yet, which is worrying. The EMM worked fine, just didn't charge the battery. Fortunately having 2 engines I could charge both batteries from the one good engine.