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Old 07 February 2021, 09:04   #1
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Country: UK - England
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Motor for Excel Vanguard XHD435

I have just brought an Excel Vanguard XHD435. This is my first boat, so I'm not sure what motor to put on it. It is rated up to a maximum of 30HP. I was offered a 20HP Suzuki with it but I'm not sure if that is the right outboard for me.

I will be getting remote steering.

I would like to be able to cruise at 20 knots, with 2-3 people on board and a substantial amount of gear.

I would be willing to spend more on a motor that will be more efficient, though I would like to get a used motor that is less than 10 years old.

I would ideally like electric start and power trim.

Has anyone got any recommendations?

Does brand matter? I have heard from a few sources that Honda and Yamaha are the most reliable.
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Old 07 February 2021, 09:43   #2
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A 20hp is a decent size for a 3.8m, often air floor, used on a tiller. I'd say for your big heavy SIB and stated load with remotes if you have the budget then 25hp min and prefer a 30hp. Going up to these sizes from a 20hp will get you an extra cylinder and a smoother motor in some sizes... I think Suzuki are 3cyl at 25hp and above... Yamaha 3cyl from 30hp upwards.

Re makes as I always say get the makers webpages open in different windows and compare features that are important to you... also considering a local dealer to you being useful. Even on a remote rigged SIB lighter weight is an advantage so that may be a factor.... for example the Yamaha 30hp is 40kg more than the 25hp... yet in the Honda range the 25hp and 30hp weigh the same at 10kg more than the Yamaha 25hp and are both 3cyl.

Lots of detail to consider.


We all have our favourites but the main brands all perform well these days.
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Old 07 February 2021, 10:38   #3
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The tiller steer 20hp Suzuki pushes our Volaire 380 along quite nicely. I’d want the 30hp on the ally floored 435. Especially if you’re adding extra weight with steering & electric start etc.
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Old 07 February 2021, 19:33   #4
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I am going to get a 30. If I don't get it I think I will regret it!

My post is here.
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Old 07 February 2021, 20:23   #5
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I run a 25 Suzuki on mine and happy with it if I were to change outboards I would go with a no interference engine to take away the worry of the cam belt breaking. Mine is tiller for ease of maintenance
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Old 07 February 2021, 21:50   #6
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Hi Jeff,
Serious question, who makes a "no interference engine"? and in what HP? Cam belt breaking damage has always been a concern ever since it happened in a car I was once the proud owner.
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Old 07 February 2021, 22:19   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
The tiller steer 20hp Suzuki pushes our Volaire 380.
Hi Dave, has your Volaire shrunk
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Old 08 February 2021, 08:47   #8
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Hi Dave, has your Volaire shrunk


Yeah, we got it wet[emoji6]
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Old 08 February 2021, 08:58   #9
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I rana 25hp two stroke on the 3.83. It was ideal for it and any smaller would have struggled with more then just me +1 onboard.

As others have said, watch the weights, but the largest one at the lightest weight is what I'd be going for.
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Old 08 February 2021, 09:33   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve509926 View Post
Hi Jeff,
Serious question, who makes a "no interference engine"? and in what HP? Cam belt breaking damage has always been a concern ever since it happened in a car I was once the proud owner.
the valves are clear of the pistons when the cam belt breaks i believe the mercs are non interference.
for info my 25 with 10 x 10 prop with all my camping gear plus me big bloke 18 knots poor weather rain and slight chop
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Old 08 February 2021, 10:19   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g View Post
the valves are clear of the pistons when the cam belt breaks i believe the mercs are non interference.
Thanks for that Jeff. I've got a Merc but knew nothing about that. Wouldn't you think they'd make a feature out of such a benifit.
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Old 08 February 2021, 10:31   #12
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Originally Posted by Steve509926 View Post
Thanks for that Jeff. I've got a Merc but knew nothing about that. Wouldn't you think they'd make a feature out of such a benifit.
you would, for the life of me i don't know where i read it i wonder if the tohatsu are too as they make low HP engines for merc
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Old 08 February 2021, 12:42   #13
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Timing belts were something I had loads to do with in near 20yrs with a motor engineers business Jeff.

In the smaller motors say 40hp and below the issue of belt failure seems to be almost insignificant compared with some car models that have an appetite for belts.

On these small OBs the belt usually runs round no more than the crank and cam pulleys with sometimes but not always a tensioner... and it's just driving the camshaft. Also the belt run is a nice easy oval.

Compare that with many cars where the belt drives one or two camshafts, a diesel pump and a water pump. There can be up to two/three guide pulleys as well as the tensioner. So the belt can be running round/against up to eight wheels/pulleys on both front and back of the belt... sometimes with changes of direction sharper than 90deg.

Car belts can fail due to the aux drive belt breaking up or other road debris being caught in them which isn't an issue with OBs.

Also the duty cycle of a car engine is often up and down the revs frequently causing constant reversing of load on the belt whereas broadly speaking many outboards run at a more constant/smooth rev profile.

So I reckon the OB belt has a far easier time.

Not arguing it would never be an issue Jeff but reassuring hopefully it's very unlikely.

Having said that if all other features are similar then checking out a make with a non-interference engine while not preventing a breakdown at sea will minimise the time/cost for repairs once back to land.

Otherwise always change the belt at or before the specified hours run and age which is often the 4yr point. Yet used 4-strokes are sold at say 10yrs old with no record the belt has ever been swapped... it would be my first job.

In the car world there was a lot of inaccurate info re interference vs non-interference engines and I only ever took notice of official trade data guides so with an OB I'd be tempted to email the makers/importers to get an answer.
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Old 08 February 2021, 13:09   #14
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never to old to learn something new
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Old 08 February 2021, 13:17   #15
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you have far more experience than me David and I'm sure your right i have my belt checked every service still good as new i will change it after this season if it starts.
my worries are based on a ford engine totally buggered and i would have bought non interference if id known at the time still it is what it is certainly not buying a new one this will see me out i hope.
cheers for the info
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Old 08 February 2021, 14:25   #16
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>>>worries are based on a ford engine totally buggered and i would have bought non interference if id known at the time

There were some right shockers for belt breaking often due to poor tensioner design or seizing water pumps which would fail throwing the belt. I've been a good few years out of the business but it was quite hard to get the car you wanted with a non-interference engine back then.
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Old 08 February 2021, 14:39   #17
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i wanted to be as simple as i could without going two smoke a bit of me whishes' id gone down that route now.
car wise i don't even bother apart from the washer water the computer tells me the rest.
now i have an aux engine I'm more confidant since i had the water in fuel problem no AA at sea
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Old 08 February 2021, 15:45   #18
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Quote:
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my worries are based on a ford engine totally buggered
Wasn't a 2ltr pinto engine by any chance!
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Old 08 February 2021, 17:26   #19
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Wasn't a 2ltr pinto engine by any chance!
2ltr trani I think they were pinto Steve
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Old 09 February 2021, 08:49   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pikey Dave View Post
Yeah, we got it wet[emoji6]
Hope my Excel Inflatable does not shrink as well!
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