Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 27 April 2013, 12:25   #1
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
Mobile Mechanic

My trailer is in need of some work and Trailer Guy (Ben) is going to take a look at it for me.
However my steering is locked up solid, i've Soaked it in wd40 et al, and "nudged" it with impact adjustment tool, but to no avail (removed the draw arm and the locking nut on the cable first).

I don't want to knacker the cable again.... and suspect the steering tube on the engine (Yam 90 2/) to be at fault, possibly too corroded internally (3rd time in 3 years its seize 2 new cables).

Does anyone know of a mobile mechanic in the Southampton area?
__________________

__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:43   #2
Member
 
falcon0310's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: surrey
Boat name: el nino
Make: tornado humber
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboards
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 958
just get new steering 118 on ebay easy to do
__________________

__________________
we all mad
falcon0310 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:52   #3
RIBnet supporter
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,803
Have you tried a bit of heat?
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:53   #4
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
buying a new cable wont fix the issue i cant get the (less than 12 month old) cable out, and the fact that 2 have seized in the last 2 years says there is more of an underlying issue.
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:54   #5
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jizm View Post
Have you tried a bit of heat?
no, heat, glass fiber, and grease/oil scares me
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:58   #6
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,073
I have always found that removing the link arm from the end of the "piston", and then putting a really big screwdriver through the whole and using that as a lever to rotate the 'piston' freed it up. Afterwards remove, clean, re-grease everything, promise you will clean and regrease when winterising, forget to do it and repeat next season...
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:58   #7
RIBnet supporter
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich View Post
no, heat, glass fiber, and grease/oil scares me
Got a pic of the offending item?
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 12:59   #8
Member
 
falcon0310's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: surrey
Boat name: el nino
Make: tornado humber
Length: 7m +
Engine: outboards
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 958
so do you need new tube then ? have see some pics
__________________
we all mad
falcon0310 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 13:02   #9
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
Quote:
Originally Posted by Poly View Post
I have always found that removing the link arm from the end of the "piston", and then putting a really big screwdriver through the whole and using that as a lever to rotate the 'piston' freed it up. Afterwards remove, clean, re-grease everything, promise you will clean and regrease when winterising, forget to do it and repeat next season...
Tried that too, rotates OK, just wont budge in or out. arm has copper grease on it from last year.
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 13:03   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Poole
Boat name: El Mono
Make: Ribtec 9M
Length: 9m +
Engine: Yanmar 315/Bravo III
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 573
The steering rod on the engine on my TomKat locked up a few years ago, after being left unused for a while. Think I ended up using heat and a large hammer to get it out.

I now make sure even if the boat doesn't go anyway I move the steering and gear/throttle systems every month or so in the garage, and where possible strip apart and grease very so often.
__________________
paulbrown22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 13:04   #11
RIBnet supporter
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,803
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich View Post
Tried that too, rotates OK, just wont budge in or out. arm has copper grease on it from last year.
Sounds like it may be something else holding it. Sure the helm turns ok?
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 13:17   #12
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Make: Redbay Boats
Length: 9m +
Engine: 370hp
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 13,846
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich View Post
arm has copper grease on it from last year.
That might just be the problem. I thought copper grease was a no-no for most marine applications?
__________________
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 14:11   #13
RIBnet admin team
 
Nos4r2's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: The wilds of Wiltshire
Boat name: Dominator
Make: SR5.4
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 85
MMSI: 235055163
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 12,840
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by willk View Post
That might just be the problem. I thought copper grease was a no-no for most marine applications?
It is. It accelerates electrolytic corrosion.
__________________
Need spares,consoles,consumables,hire,training or even a new boat?

Please click HERE and HERE and support our Trade Members.

Join up as a Trade member or Supporter HERE
Nos4r2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 14:18   #14
RIBnet Supporter
 
willk's Avatar
 
Country: Ireland
Make: Redbay Boats
Length: 9m +
Engine: 370hp
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 13,846
RIBase
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nos4r2 View Post
accelerates electrolytic corrosion.
Yeah, I knew that....

...I just couldn't spell it
__________________
willk is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27 April 2013, 14:34   #15
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
YAm Man your mailbox is full.

Ill post photos shortly, and as its the 3rd time this has happened, i think the tube has seen better days.
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2013, 05:49   #16
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
Try Mark Towersey he can be contacted through Blackdog marine, or he used to be a couple of years ago.
__________________
uncle al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 28 April 2013, 07:03   #17
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
thanks for the suggestions, Yam Man is going to pop round and take a peek.
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05 May 2013, 10:17   #18
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Make: Ballistic
Length: 7m +
Engine: Yam 225
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,003
Well Yam man came round as promised and offered some wisdom and what would be needed to replace the tube.

1st step was to see if I could get the cable out or i'd need to cut it.
So with thinking that either it would come out, or I would need to replace it, i got out the old faith tools, of heat and Mallet.

Within 45 mins I had the cable 80% out, cant get it further without removing the A frame. I had a look inside, and it was a mess with lots of corrosion. Thinking i had nothing to loose as i was looking at a new tube anyway i took a drill slightly undersized and ran it in and out on very low speed along with some wd40. loads of crud came out, and low and behold the cable went back in easily. I then greased the cable and reinserted and now I have working steering.
I think i am missing a (nylon?) cover nut for the end of the tube opposite to where it comes in, and will probably need a new tube in a season or so but at least I can get out on the water now.

Thanks again to Yam Man for the pointers.
__________________
Starovich is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 May 2013, 02:56   #19
Member
 
Nick Hearne's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Bucks
Boat name: Blue & Ding Dong
Make: Ribeye,SR4 & Bombard
Length: 6m +
Engine: 115,50 & 15Hp Yams
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,246
Having had a cable snap on me a mile or so out of Salcombe last year I would look in to replacing it as it may have been weakened! I ended replacing mine with hydronic as it meant I did not have to remove the engine as there was not enough room to get the new cable in (had to cut the old one out!)
__________________
Member of the Ribeye supporters club!!!
Member of Bombard 380 Aerotec club
Member of SR4 club
Nick Hearne is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06 May 2013, 02:59   #20
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Plymouth
Length: 6m +
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,693
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starovich View Post
Well Yam man came round as promised and offered some wisdom and what would be needed to replace the tube.

1st step was to see if I could get the cable out or i'd need to cut it.
So with thinking that either it would come out, or I would need to replace it, i got out the old faith tools, of heat and Mallet.

Within 45 mins I had the cable 80% out, cant get it further without removing the A frame. I had a look inside, and it was a mess with lots of corrosion. Thinking i had nothing to loose as i was looking at a new tube anyway i took a drill slightly undersized and ran it in and out on very low speed along with some wd40. loads of crud came out, and low and behold the cable went back in easily. I then greased the cable and reinserted and now I have working steering.
I think i am missing a (nylon?) cover nut for the end of the tube opposite to where it comes in, and will probably need a new tube in a season or so but at least I can get out on the water now.

Thanks again to Yam Man for the pointers.
Just run a 16mm extended drill bit through the steering tube, that'll clear out any build up of rust that's gathered in there.

Peter @ Boatsandoutboards4sale ~ www.BoatsandOutboards4Sale.co.uk ~ 07930 421007
__________________

__________________
Boats&Outboards is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 19:57.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.