Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
 
Old 14 August 2011, 20:42   #1
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Mercury 50hp throttle control sticking

Hello all, my control is really sticky, I have wd40 the cables and has improved forward but reverse is really sticky. Has anyone dismantled the controls in the picture attached?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110814_214047.jpg
Views:	442
Size:	43.5 KB
ID:	61679   Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110814_214114.jpg
Views:	325
Size:	41.1 KB
ID:	61680  
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 14:17   #2
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Im going to replace the cables but ive been told it could be the washer in the throttle/control
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 14:19   #3
Member
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
I take it you have already checked the friction thumbturn on the front?
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 14:25   #4
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Yeah didnt make any difference, I think rib was left on mooring to take on water feb/march and hasnt been run since, my hunch because of the green water marks on the inside of transom and it was left afloat all year by previous owners (sailing club). Looks like water level passed bottom of controls hence wanting to strip apart
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 14:33   #5
Member
 
Jizm's Avatar
 
Country: UK - England
Town: Southampton
Boat name: Hissing Sid
Make: Ross Smith Cobra
Length: 6m +
Engine: 200HP Optimax
MMSI: 235038046
Join Date: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,804
Yes, just take it off the console and remove the access plate on the back. This should give enough access to free everything up without stripping it right down.
Jizm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 15:39   #6
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
you could try, and look under the powerhead at the gear change linkage there should be a spanner size 10mm nut joining two levers together i have known them to vibrate and tighten undo the nut about ONE turn is it easier to operate? if not use a platinunm mercury control cable they are a bit more expensive but worth it let me know how you get on.How old is the obm?
regards
alan
__________________
uncle al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 18:00   #7
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Thanks jizm, will give it a try I didnt know about that pannel. Hi Alan tried that nut no change, Not sure on age.
As you can imagine as previous being a club rescue boat some sailors dont know how to use the controls or the big red button you press to put in gear! The red button now doesn't really work
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 15 August 2011, 18:30   #8
Member
 
Country: UK - England
Town: bicester
Length: no boat
Engine: outboard only
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 913
if you disconnect the cables at the powerhead end does the controls work freely?if they do it suggests to me it could be a gearhousing problem, the spring behind the plunger in the propeller shaft (probaly), does the obm go into/outof gear manually easily?disconnect the cables from the control box as well, if the control box moves easily replace cables and keep the cable runs as straight as possible.
good luck
alan
__________________
uncle al is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17 August 2011, 13:40   #9
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Thanks for the reply uncle al, going to disconnect all tomorrow and have a look
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2011, 12:23   #10
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Probably a bit late now, but I had a similar problem with my Yam box. Two things to watch out for (hopefully you won't have found out already!) is that the screws holding the box together are likely to break or shear the threads inside befere undoing, and my guess would be a lot of dried grease in there.

Assuming you got it apart OK, bath everything in your favoutrite degreasant, re- lube & problem likely solved. For what it's worth most boxes use the same mechanism, so if it's a total write- off, any controls will do to replace the (mechanical) bits.

You can get a spare set of the plastic bushes for a song or two
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 18 August 2011, 19:28   #11
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Control seems fine def the cables. Only problem I have now is getting the piece of crap back together, I spent 2 hours just trying to put casing back on. tomorrow is another day! I found this plastic bit and not sure where in the control it belongs?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110818_202721.jpg
Views:	382
Size:	43.5 KB
ID:	61766   Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110818_202852.jpg
Views:	222
Size:	46.1 KB
ID:	61767  
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 08:59   #12
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Yeah, it's the casing is usually the bit that fails on old remotes!

My guess for the plastic bit (nothing to scale it against) is it probably is an insulator for the electrical gubbinry against the case, the two holes lining up with a couple of the screws that hold it together? Either that or it;s a bearing slide for the lid. Any witness marks on it?

How was the mechanism inside?
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 12:21   #13
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Think you were spot on looks like it covers the electrical wire from mechanism, just impossible to get inplace and close lid.
Can I buy a replacement controller? Does it have to be merc? E.g. a reasonable priced one?
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 12:26   #14
Member
 
Country: UK - Wales
Town: West Wales
Make: Vipermax 5.8, SR4.7
Length: 5m +
Engine: 150 Opti, F50EFi
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,299
Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
__________________
Downhilldai is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 13:06   #15
Member
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: Wildheart
Make: Humber/Delta Seasafe
Length: 5m +
Engine: Merc 60 Clamshell
MMSI: 235068449
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,667
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruari 29 View Post
Think you were spot on looks like it covers the electrical wire from mechanism, just impossible to get inplace and close lid.?
I assume you left the main body attatched to the boat?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruari 29 View Post
Can I buy a replacement controller? Does it have to be merc? E.g. a reasonable priced one?
There are only two real differences in most of these controls - the shape & style of the box & the plug on the electrics! I am driving my Merc from a Yam 703, and for a wee while I borrowed a Tohatsu one while I rebuilt the mechanism in the 703

One option (which is what I did) is to move the electrics to your console. You will need to run 2 wires back to the remotes (5 in your case as you appear to be power trim) to allow the anti start in gear switch to do it's job.

Having said that, if your PT control wiring is a separate loom (it usually was on older engines) that may not be an issue & 2 wires to the ASIG switch would do. Then you can use any old secondhand control, or a random "mech only" lever which are relatively cheap. (Although a "mech only" with a PT switch may be a bit rarer, unless you go aftermarket new.

The other handy thing is that they all use the same square peg to connect lever to the rest of the gubbins, so a "manual" one could also work, just use your lever. Just be aware if you mix & match levers the neutral catch pegs are not a standard size, so you may end up with it not stopping dead centre or alternatively not catching in N at all.

The connectors you would need for the "jumper cable" can be found in any auto factors.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai View Post
Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
I guess you have found a problem in the remotes? If it is just the cables you could probably get replacements from the place under Iceland(?) in Oban.
__________________
9D280 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 18:13   #16
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Downhilldai
Thought the cables were at fault, not the remotes?
Yeah it is the cables just cant the whole thing back together, I took off all the casing. Oops,
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19 August 2011, 18:22   #17
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
[QUOTE="9D280"]
I assume you left the main body attatched to the boat?

Thanks for the in depth reply, no I took controller off console, it think it was jammed in forward when I took it apart. Waiting for new cables to arrive
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 August 2011, 17:50   #18
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Problem fixed thanks for your answers. The outcome: both cables were ceased, and part of the mechanism in the controller had popped off. After stripping the controller putting back together its now really smooth.
I found these 3 wires coming from the controller im guessing they are for the taco? Any ideas how I can test?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110821_185003.jpg
Views:	199
Size:	42.0 KB
ID:	61876   Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110821_185036.jpg
Views:	269
Size:	45.5 KB
ID:	61877  
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 August 2011, 18:02   #19
RIBnet admin team
 
Poly's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Boat name: imposter
Make: FunYak
Length: 3m +
Engine: Tohatsu 30HP
MMSI: 235089819
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,622
Yes they are your tacho wires. First I would clean the contacts on the tacho (then perhaps some vaselline on them if they are getting damp).

Now connect the Black Wire to GND, the purple wire to IGN and the grey wire to SEND.

You may need to turn the black arrow/dial - but it is probably in the right setting if it was previously working.

If it is not giving any signal with the engine running - then check you are getting 12-15V dc between black and purple. You can also measure the voltage between the GREY and BLACK - if you have a fancy multimeter which measures "frequency" or with an ordinary multimeter put it on V.a.c. (not dc) and measure - it will be probably somewhere between 10 and 20V depending on engine type and rpm at tick over. That will confirm the wiring from the engine is all ok and any fault is with the gauge (or setting).
__________________
Poly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21 August 2011, 18:11   #20
Member
 
Ruari 29's Avatar
 
Country: UK - Scotland
Town: Stonehaven
Make: Avon Sea Rider 5.4
Length: 5m +
Engine: 50Hp Mercury 4' EFI
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 290
Thanks polwart your a star, here is another laugh for you I also found these 4 wires coming from controller randomly taped up under seat, any ideas?
The elec tilt and trim work fine and engine starts ok?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110821_191137.jpg
Views:	277
Size:	41.0 KB
ID:	61882   Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20110821_191201.jpg
Views:	222
Size:	30.3 KB
ID:	61883  
__________________
www.CastleCharter.co.uk
Ruari 29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




All times are GMT. The time now is 06:27.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.