Mariner optimax 200 HP Air Lock

diverdad · 07 July 2009, 20:30

Hi all, I have a rib with a 200HP Mariner optimax (2 stroke) 2005.
It has been stood for nearly a year due to other commitments.
I have it on my drive and when I went to start it, it would turn over but not fire up.
On go the jump leads, still nothing.
Pulled out a plug and checked for sparking, plug sparked but well carbon'd up and dry.
The bulb did not really get hard when pumping, that is when I noticed the air bleed valves on the pump and one on the injection manifold on either side, (the air bleed valves are like car tyre valves).
I pressed the middle bit in and air hissed out then a load of fuel, (everywhere in fact; all over me and the garden).
I turned over the engine whilst dad bled the valves (in no particular order). The engine did splutter and nearly started, but then nothing.
I took out all the plugs to check them, they are in a bit of a poor state and need cleaning up, I even managed to snap one!! Fantastic what a great evening I am having!!
The plugs are ngk ir izfr5g, after a quick search I have found some on the net but I will check with my own local supplier 1st before I order.

I noticed the 2 stroke reservoir is empty and from memory it was an issue from when I bought the engine from new, (I had to unscrew the cap whilst the engine was running to allow it to fill up).

The question I am asking is am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

Lee

mattiasb · 07 July 2009, 21:18

Hi,
Had similar engine, different problems, I'd however try an external fuel source and bleed the "old" fule out, before ripping everything else out.

GL
Matt

uncle al · 08 July 2009, 06:45

do not open those schrader valves they are for test gauges only you could hurt yourself 0r cause a fire with petrol swilling around or high air pressure into /through the skin

bedajim · 08 July 2009, 07:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

Hi all, I have a rib with a 200HP Mariner optimax (2 stroke) 2005.
It has been stood for nearly a year due to other commitments.
I have it on my drive and when I went to start it, it would turn over but not fire up.
On go the jump leads, still nothing.
Pulled out a plug and checked for sparking, plug sparked but well carbon'd up and dry.
The bulb did not really get hard when pumping, that is when I noticed the air bleed valves on the pump and one on the injection manifold on either side, (the air bleed valves are like car tyre valves).
I pressed the middle bit in and air hissed out then a load of fuel, (everywhere in fact; all over me and the garden).
I turned over the engine whilst dad bled the valves (in no particular order). The engine did splutter and nearly started, but then nothing.
I took out all the plugs to check them, they are in a bit of a poor state and need cleaning up, I even managed to snap one!! Fantastic what a great evening I am having!!
The plugs are ngk ir izfr5g, after a quick search I have found some on the net but I will check with my own local supplier 1st before I order.

I noticed the 2 stroke reservoir is empty and from memory it was an issue from when I bought the engine from new, (I had to unscrew the cap whilst the engine was running to allow it to fill up).

The question I am asking is am I missing something?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!

Lee

You may need the oil lines bleeding/priming, you can do a lot of damage playing around in the dark, it cost me under £400.00 pounds for a big service including plugs, impeller etc, and they would prime the 2 st oil too, just an idea

9D280 · 08 July 2009, 07:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

I noticed the 2 stroke reservoir is empty

I assume you mean the oil tank? if that's empty the "low level" switch will not allow the engine to run as it needs oil to stop it siezing.

Assuming you have sooked air down the oil pipe due to an empty tank then there is likely also an oil flow switch as well, which will cut the engine to prevent it all siezing upI guess you will probably have to prime the oil line again.

Turbodiesel · 08 July 2009, 20:44

Does the high pressure fuel pump run when you switch the ignition on? You should hear it buzz!.

Turbodiesel · 08 July 2009, 20:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by 9D280

I assume you mean the oil tank? if that's empty the "low level" switch will not allow the engine to run as it needs oil to stop it siezing.

Assuming you have sooked air down the oil pipe due to an empty tank then there is likely also an oil flow switch as well, which will cut the engine to prevent it all siezing upI guess you will probably have to prime the oil line again.

There is no oil flow switch, the Opti uses crank case pressure to pressurize the main oil tank which forces oil upto the header tank on the engine. If you need to bleed it just run the engine (if you get it going!!) with the engine oil tank cap off and run it until the tank overflows then very quickly put the cap on. The oil level will Not stop the engine from starting, it would just put it into guardian mode limiting your rpm. There is an oil level switch on the header tank (engine tank).

diverdad · 09 July 2009, 12:18

Hi all, thanks for the posts so far.
To keep you up to date, I have looked at the posts and I think the 2 stroke oil tank in the front of the engine being empty is the issue.
I managed to snap a spark plug as I was checking them the other night.
I purchased some new ones and was in the process of putting them in.
When I came to the one where the plug snapped the plug was finger tight as soon as I put it in the hole.
I removed it and checked the threads.
There are a couple of shards of thread that are not good.
I am going to purchase a tap to clean it through so it will not cross thread and bugger things up even further!!
I have checked the plug it is 14mm but I am not sure of the pitch, does anyone know what pitch I should be looking for?

I will keep you posted as things progress!

Thanks
Lee

PeterM · 10 July 2009, 10:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

When I came to the one where the plug snapped the plug was finger tight as soon as I put it in the hole.
I removed it and checked the threads.
There are a couple of shards of thread that are not good.
I am going to purchase a tap to clean it through so it will not cross thread and bugger things up even further!!

Lee

Had this on one of my plugs at the end of last summer - ended up going quite badly wrong so had the head off & 'fixed' properly - last thing you want is a plug coming out at full chat !

See here for the full discussion ........

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...light=timesert

I do have a pack of 4 spare ' iridium' plugs hanging around if you need any more at a cheaper than normal price - dont ask how I ended up with 4 spare on a 6 cyl engine !

Pete

Matt · 10 July 2009, 13:18

Cos it was cheaper to buy a box of 10 than 6 individual.

PeterM · 10 July 2009, 13:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt

Cos it was cheaper to buy a box of 10 than 6 individual.

I wish ! I was stunned at how much the dealer wanted - so ordered some cheap off t'internet. Then threw my toys out of the boat when it wouldn't start one day (not related to plugs) & I missed most of th cowes - tor- cowes race and towed the boat to the yard and told them ' bloody fix it or keep & sell it' . They then stuck new plugs in as part of the 300hour service and I had a few spares arrive in the post the next day !

9D280 · 10 July 2009, 15:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

There is no oil flow switch, the Opti uses crank case pressure to pressurize the main oil tank which forces oil upto the header tank on the engine. If you need to bleed it just run the engine (if you get it going!!) with the engine oil tank cap off and run it until the tank overflows then very quickly put the cap on. The oil level will Not stop the engine from starting, it would just put it into guardian mode limiting your rpm. There is an oil level switch on the header tank (engine tank).

I had the feeling the Opti's oil sstem might be a bit more High tech than my usual power plants......

Chris · 10 July 2009, 19:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

There are a couple of shards of thread that are not good.
I am going to purchase a tap to clean it through so it will not cross thread and bugger things up even further!!

Watch you sont end up with bits dropping into the cylinder.

It might be worth stripping the head off to get this done properly as suggested.

uncle al · 10 July 2009, 20:40

put grease on the tap and go gently and be carefull if you try to tap the spark plug hole

Downhilldai · 10 July 2009, 21:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

...the plug was finger tight as soon as I put it in the hole.

Was the thread of this plug tight when you unscrewed it from the head?

diverdad · 12 July 2009, 21:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbodiesel

Does the high pressure fuel pump run when you switch the ignition on? You should hear it buzz!.

Yes it does.
Thanks
Lee

diverdad · 12 July 2009, 21:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by Downhilldai

Was the thread of this plug tight when you unscrewed it from the head?

Yes, it was the port were the plug snapped as I tried to unscrew it.
It is the middle port on the left (port side) bank of the block.
The plug is very rusty.
Ironically the plug below is in pretty good condition.

Lee

diverdad · 12 July 2009, 21:26

So far the new tap has not arrived yet, I will run the tap through on Tuesday eveining (provided it has arrived by then).
I would just like to say thanks for all the posts offering advice.
I will let you know the outcome!!

Thanks
Lee

Downhilldai · 12 July 2009, 21:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris

Watch you sont end up with bits dropping into the cylinder.

It might be worth stripping the head off to get this done properly as suggested.

Quote:

Originally Posted by uncle al

put grease on the tap and go gently and be carefull if you try to tap the spark plug hole

I'd strongly recommend you follow the advice given here.

PeterM · 13 July 2009, 12:24

I'd go with getting the head off & doing it properly . I considered the 'simple/ cheap' way - but decided I dont want to destroy the bores/ engine/ head for the sake of a few hundred quid to pay someone else to do it all right .

If its not right it'll cost BIG money to put right after you grind up the swarf in the cylinder.

If it was tight when it came out - it may be that it was x-threaded for a while - hence the 'rust' colour on it - but I know they angles are a bugger to get right when you screw them in or out ! I snapped a new one just as I lent on the plug spanner abit in the wrong direction!

Just my opinion - but hope it works out well .