Installing Fuel Tank - must dos

rjbathgate · 26 January 2011, 03:44

Hello,

I'm planning on ripping out my old (broken) fuel tank in the bow, and replacing it with a shiny new one.

There is no plumbing whatsoever from old fuel tank to outboard -- current outboard runs to tote tanks at the back.

I've got a semi good idea what plumbing I need to do, but wanted to double check... is it as simple as:

new fuel tank --> pipe --> fuel filter --> pipe --> outboard

I'm hoping to be able to have the tote tanks as optional, so might do this:

new fuel tank --> pipe --> two way switch --> fuel filter --> pipe --> outboard
tote tanks --> pipe --> two way switch....

nothings missing from that idea is it?!

Oh, and fuel filters:
http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/can-typ...ry-p-8283.html -- $80
http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/marine-...el-p-8286.html -- $180
http://www.smartmarine.co.nz/disposa...m-p-10579.html -- $10

Why the huge price difference, and what one?!

At present, I only have whatever inline filter is in the actual outboard....

chewy · 26 January 2011, 06:32

The cheap plastic one woesn't separate water, the next one has an alloy head and disposable filters, the last and most expensive has a stainless head and clear bowel at the bottom so you can see any water/debris that have been caught.
I've buy the last one if it was me, saying that I have no filter fitted apart from whats on the engine and never had any problems.

jyasaki · 26 January 2011, 15:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by rjbathgate

is it as simple as:

new fuel tank --> pipe --> fuel filter --> pipe --> outboard

plus fuel tank --> hose --> vent

and fuel tank --> hose --> filler

If it's a metal tank, it should be grounded and anoded (I think.)

Go with the Racor filters (or the European equivalent, I suppose.) Easy to find and well proven track record. The plastic bowl, while it seems gimmicky, makes it pretty easy to see if there's a contamination problem should the need arise.

jky

jky