I need a new engine :(

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 17:25

My engine is buggered. After 2 days soaking in the strongest penetrant I can find the l/u still won't budge even with half a tonne pressure on it. Arse.

Looking at a 60hp VRO evinrude-is this likely to be too heavy for my sr4?
Don't suppose anyone has a 40-60hp knocking around they can sell me for up to £600?

codprawn · 30 April 2006, 18:14

There MUST be a way - have you tried heat on it?

What exactly is stuck?

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 18:20

The driveshaft is frozen into the powerhead. Can't put heat on it, it'll bugger the bottom crank seal and I'll have to cut a big lump out of the side of the leg to do it. I'm now getting nervous that I may damage the crank if I use any more force.

I've put so much through the casings that the leg is starting to crumble at the joint.

I DO have a spare S/S driveshaft but I really don't want to dismantle the l/u on an 80's saltwater engine to remove the old one after I cut it apart. I doubt it'll seal properly again.

ADS · 30 April 2006, 18:32

Doesn't sound good NOS, I assume your mechanically competent but it may be worth taking it somewhere to get it looked out? I assume you were trying to change the impeller?
Used engines wise this time of year £600 doesn't buy you an awful lot, the old twin carb Mariner 40's (produced by Yamaha) are indestrucable, and produce good power, a mate had a 1978 one and it was brilliant, better than my Suzook 2stroke 40 any day. For 50/60hp's the Yamaha 2stroke us hard to beat but is also quite expensive.

This ones tasty but well above your budget, still cheap though!http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/OAB305

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F98155 same as yours, seems cheap

http://www.boatsandoutboards.co.uk/view/F96615 Good value!

best of luck with it

ADS · 30 April 2006, 18:33

post repeated, please delete

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 18:39

Unfortunately that merc's not the same as mine-it's from the early 70's and a museum piece or I would have grabbed it by now. ROUGHLY the same powerhead but different (and crap) ignition and a different saddle so my PTT won't fit.

Just the wrong time I guess.

That Mariner looks like a good idea. I've got my eye on a 1990 60hp VRO Johnson as well but not sure about the weight on an SR4-they are 104kgs-maybe a bit less as the VRO has been removed. Any opinions on it?

ADS · 30 April 2006, 18:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nos4r2

Unfortunately that merc's not the same as mine-it's from the early 70's and a museum piece or I would have grabbed it by now. ROUGHLY the same powerhead but different (and crap) ignition and a different saddle so my PTT won't fit.

Just the wrong time I guess.

That Mariner looks like a good idea. I've got my eye on a 1990 60hp VRO Johnson as well but not sure about the weight on an SR4-they are 104kgs-maybe a bit less as the VRO has been removed. Any opinions on it?

The Johnsons. aren't bad they smoke abit, but get on with the job in hand. Ollyit has a Yammie 60 on his, not sure of the weight of them, and im sure I read David Manning put a 70HP on his

Having the VRO removed is a good thing

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 18:50

The 60 VRO and the 70 VRO are apparently based on the same engine so you can see why I was wondering about the weight-did David Manning run a Johnson triple?

I DO like the idea of 60hp at the prop rather than the 45 my merc puts out.I've clocked it at 38mph on GPS and no tide with the merc. I think it'd be rather fun with 30% more power...

Tim M · 30 April 2006, 21:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADS

The Johnsons.

Dont like old OMCs; heaps of junk in my experiance.....

BogMonster · 30 April 2006, 22:10

How old is this buggered engine, just out of interest?

Also wondering why taking the VRO off is a good thing (as a Johnson owner) does it cause bother?

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 22:27

Not 100% sure how old the buggered one is-it's ex military so never had any numbers on it but it might have been to the Falklands on tour. At the newest guess it's 1986/87. The annoying thing is that the engine itself is fine apart from the siezed driveshaft. I might even be able to get another season of use out of it but TBH I don't want to take the risk of not changing the impeller.

VRO removal is a personal choice I guess.

A well maintained VRO system is fine, but I'd be relying on 16 years of good maintenance if I bought a 1990 VRO engine and most engines aren't that lucky.If an autolube/VRO system fails it'll take down the engine so premix is less risky but premix fouls plugs more.

ADS · 30 April 2006, 22:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tim M

Dont like old OMCs; heaps of junk in my experiance.....

I have to agree about the old ones, although I didn't want to upset any Johnson owners.
This little beast belonged to a friend of mine, and this is its party trick on idle, apparently according to the Jonnyrude dealers it was meant to do that, had new impeller etc, and it wasn't two stroke smoke. Was bloody reliable though, although felt abit down on power.

Nasher · 30 April 2006, 22:53

I can't believe there is not a way to get it out.

Are you ever down Pompey way?

I'd gladly have a go for you.

Nasher.

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 23:08

It's not that there's no way to get it out, it's that there's no way to get it out without trashing the motor. I've used so much force that the leg and lower unit castings have started to crumble around the edges.

The next option is to attach the L/U to a forklift with a ratchet strap and the back of my truck then drive forward-unless someone has a better idea?

If you happen to have any unusual tools that'd deal with it Nasher it'd be a pleasure to let someone else have a go.

Nasher · 30 April 2006, 23:43

The only thing I can think of without seeing it is to try taking the powerhead off the drive shaft.

Remove all the bolts holding the powerhead down to the mid section, then suspend the engine upright an inch off the ground using an engine crane attached to the powerhead lifting brackets.
Then protect the end of the crankshaft thread and give it a wallop with a chubb hammer.

The shock may break it free and the rest of the engine can only drop an inch to the ground.

If you could somehow lash the lower unit to the ground and get some tension on the lifting chains then all the better.

Nasher.

Nos4r2 · 30 April 2006, 23:56

That'd work on most engines but the only lifting point on the powerhead is to use a screw-in insert in the flywheel centre.

Not sure whacking the end of the crank with a hammer is a good idea though!

BogMonster · 01 May 2006, 01:51

Quote:

Originally Posted by ADS

I have to agree about the old ones, although I didn't want to upset any Johnson owners.
This little beast belonged to a friend of mine, and this is its party trick on idle, apparently according to the Jonnyrude dealers it was meant to do that, had new impeller etc, and it wasn't two stroke smoke. Was bloody reliable though, although felt abit down on power.

My Johnson produces a bit of steam like that (but nowhere near as much) all the time once it has warmed up, but the tell tale squirt is OK, the temp warning never squawks and it runs fine. Should I be worried? Do other engines do that?

I'd go Japanese if I bought a new engine I think, but this is on the boat and it churns kelp OK so what the hell

Tim M · 01 May 2006, 07:38

Quote:

Not sure whacking the end of the crank with a hammer is a good idea though!

Well if it's buggered what's the worst that can happen???

Nos4r2 · 01 May 2006, 09:13

Lets put it this way, I can sell it as it is and tell the buyer the gearbox won't come off but it runs.

I'll get 1/3 as much for it if the crank is bent.

Nasher · 01 May 2006, 09:30

Sorry

Can't see how you can bend the crank doing what I suggested, damage the thread yes if you dont protect it, but the hammer blow is a short sharp tap rather than an overhead assult with a sledge.
And obviously you have to know when to stop.

How badly are the casings now damaged, and how much do you want for it like it is?

Nasher.