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Old 06 August 2014, 10:20   #1
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How to remove transom outboard lock

Hi all,

Can anyone help me understand how I can remove this lock without a key.

First thought was locksmith?

Second was getting heavy with it but have not got a clue where to start
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Old 06 August 2014, 10:39   #2
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This is guesswork from the pics:

Looks like if you cut the barrel of the cylinder just in front of the cables (third pic) you should gain access to the hidden bolt head. If it's hardened steel, you're in for a job. Use some coolant (water) to avoid burning the transom.

That's assuming you can't pick the lock (corroded solid, or whatever.)

If you can get to the other side, cutting the bolt opposite the lock may prove easier.

jky
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Old 06 August 2014, 10:49   #3
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I'm reliably informed ( by my local Suzi dealer) a Scaffold Pole over the end and a bit of wellie will do the trick!...not I suspect for you!
I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care!
I have a New lock if you need one Alex.
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Old 06 August 2014, 14:33   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
This is guesswork from the pics:



Looks like if you cut the barrel of the cylinder just in front of the cables (third pic) you should gain access to the hidden bolt head. If it's hardened steel, you're in for a job. Use some coolant (water) to avoid burning the transom.



That's assuming you can't pick the lock (corroded solid, or whatever.)



If you can get to the other side, cutting the bolt opposite the lock may prove easier.



jky

Cheers for this I was also thinking that barrel is the easiest bit to hacksaw in order to remove that piece and get to the nut...cheers


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Old 06 August 2014, 14:34   #5
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I'm reliably informed ( by my local Suzi dealer) a Scaffold Pole over the end and a bit of wellie will do the trick!...not I suspect for you!

I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care!

I have a New lock if you need one Alex.

Yeah I can see the scaffolding bar going wrong in the wrong hands!!!


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Old 06 August 2014, 15:11   #6
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Try drilling through the keyhole first if you can get to it.
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Old 06 August 2014, 15:28   #7
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Slitting disc on a 4.1/2 angle grinder

Gloves, eye protection and cover the area where the sparks land
Don't ask how I know
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Old 06 August 2014, 15:38   #8
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Slitting disc on a 4.1/2 angle grinder

Gloves, eye protection and cover the area where the sparks land
Don't ask how I know
Exactly what I'd do as well.
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:16   #9
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Exactly what I'd do as well.
Me too
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:27   #10
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Me too
And me, removed one off my SR with a angle grinder
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:36   #11
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Agree, angle grinder & protect area with sheets & boards from sparks!
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:37   #12
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I'd cover the engine tubes ect with a dust sheet and use a Metal cutting disk and cordless Grinder...and take care
Sorry, did someone say something?
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:40   #13
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I guess most of us agree then? Ha!
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Old 06 August 2014, 16:49   #14
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I guess most of us agree then? Ha!
Time to Drill a Hole in a Console then, oh, and end famine too!
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Old 06 August 2014, 17:27   #15
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Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?
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Old 06 August 2014, 17:30   #16
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Quote:
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Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?
If its like the one I had its cast alloy.... so give it a whack with a hammer
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Old 06 August 2014, 18:01   #17
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Go for the padlock not the cast bit. That way if your careful you can re-use it with a new padlock.

Chris
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Old 06 August 2014, 23:27   #18
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Well thanks all for the responses. I think that is fairly unanimous although I could do with a few more responses just to be absolutely sure

So which bit am I angle grinding, is it that little rod thing on the last pic?
Seems to me that the locking bit is the right end of the rod in the third pic. Unlocking the thing allows the pin to slide to the left, clearing the wall of the cylinder, after which you remove the lock towards the camera. If that's true, cutting the rod won't get you anywhere, as the stub will still be stuck in the lock part.

You'll need to cut the cylinder part beyond where the pin goes in (or at least halfway along the pin diameter) such that the pin is no longer holding everything in. Remove the lock and you should have access to the nut or bolt head.

jky
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Old 07 August 2014, 02:11   #19
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I have also drilled the head off the bolt from the other side if it has better access, small bit and work up keep it cool with water
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Old 07 August 2014, 04:26   #20
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If its like the one I had its cast alloy.... so give it a whack with a hammer
The pipe-freezing spray used by plumbers helps when trying that (or so they tell me )
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