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Old 17 March 2008, 07:36   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
I have thought about this too. I held the auxilliary engine in position on the transom over the weekend, and although it's tight there is enough space at hard-lock both ways. I plan to fit it on the port side, as I have a stern light and flag on the starboard which is all wired in.

If you were storing the engine - would you custom make some sort of bracket inside the boat? The only place I can see it would be out of the way is behind the bench seat. (see illustration)

My only concern with the auxilliary engine on a transom bracket is the vibration - coming of a big wave, etc, which could damage the tilt mechanism, even although I'd probably strap it down for extra rigidity.
Hi

I made up a bracket for my Osprey in mild steel and painted it to try it and then when I was happy made a copy in stainless, i can turn the aux but the idea is to use the main as a rudder, I've not a had a problem with the tilt mechanism but did add a couple of fixing points on the Aframe to tie off too

James
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Old 01 April 2008, 19:53   #22
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Country: UK - Scotland
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It can be done

Hi,
We have a 3.3mariner 2 stroke Auxiliary for our 7-man
Zodiac (main is 40hp Mercury 4 stroke) and use the demountable
bracket and dovetail plate mentioned earlier (I got mine
via Duncans in Glasgow). The bracket easily fits in the bow locker
and the engine clips on the backrest of the 2 man jockey console
we have on our boat. To use the reserve you have to drive the engine fully up and hard over before mounting the bracket and engine. Bit of a fankle in rough water and slight restriction on steerage to s'board but perfectly usable. Pushes it along about 5kts.

Incidentally the jockey seat is a major improvement over the zodiac bench seat
especially if the water is anything but flat calm. Worth converting if you can
pick up a cheap one.

Happy boating

A.
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Old 01 April 2008, 20:23   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ISLANDRIBBER View Post
...To use the reserve you have to drive the engine fully up ...
Hopefully it wont be an electrical fault that means you need the auxillary then
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Old 01 April 2008, 22:46   #24
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Nice one! On the mercury you undo the
release valve and lift it manually.

A
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Old 02 April 2008, 18:35   #25
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Make: Zodiac Pro 500
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Engine: Yamaha 70hp
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Could this be of use?
Adjustable Outdoor Motor Bracket
B348
Up to 20hp. Adjustable through 4 positions. Brackets of anodised aluminium. Pad of varnished wood. Spring and moving parts of stainless steel. Complete with mounting bolts and full instructions.
http://www.towsure.com/product/2438-..._Motor_Bracket
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Old 06 April 2008, 11:59   #26
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Quote:
Hi,
We have a 3.3mariner 2 stroke Auxiliary for our 7-man
Zodiac (main is 40hp Mercury 4 stroke) and use the demountable
bracket and dovetail plate mentioned earlier (I got mine
via Duncans in Glasgow). The bracket easily fits in the bow locker
and the engine clips on the backrest of the 2 man jockey console
we have on our boat. To use the reserve you have to drive the engine fully up and hard over before mounting the bracket and engine. Bit of a fankle in rough water and slight restriction on steerage to s'board but perfectly usable. Pushes it along about 5kts.
I'd be interested to see a picture of your set-up, especially a rear transom bracket shot.

Regards the jockey seat - I appreciate this is probably the sensible option for negotiating a moderate swell and remaining in control, however I have a young family, and part of the deal was providing seating.

I wouldn't contemplate fitting a jockey seat now as there will be tell-tail screw holes on the floor. Probably just upgrade boat in a couple of years. My ideal craft is a Zodiac 550 Open Pro with Yamaha 90HP.
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Old 06 April 2008, 12:10   #27
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Country: UK - Scotland
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Quote:
Could this be of use? Adjustable outdoor motor bracket.
I have thought about this. Again space on the transom is the deciding factor. I like the idea of being able to lift engine clear of the water and above the steering return bar which is attached to the main engine. When the Yamaha 40HP is dead centre, the steering return bar extends 6 inches out (to port) and is roughly 3 inches from the top of the transom.

The auxilliary will need to be able to lift clear of this when in a resting position.
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Old 06 April 2008, 20:59   #28
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VHF, flares and a pair of paddles may be the only option as the space you have to fit it in is so tight. I had the same boat as you and I doubt an engine will fit with the flange on the rear. Maybe you could cut the flange out to fit an engine in but this might compromise the transom strength. A guy I know has the 550 with a 115 and he loves it...we all have our dreams...now what were this weeks lottery numbers...damn not mine...back to the dream
That bracket thingy might lift the engine above the height of the 40. It would allow the auxillary to then be locked in the horizontal position and maybe clear of the 40. Time for the tape measure eh?
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Old 15 April 2008, 20:45   #29
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Deamountable bracket and Dovetail plate

Couple of pics attached showing plate and bracket, hope this helps.

Alan
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Old 15 April 2008, 21:05   #30
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Thats the same bracket and position Iam using . I tried to get another dovetail plate for it , to mount the bracket somewhere else or on the wall for flushing the motor but no luck .
Iam not keen on that waffle plastic pad on the bracket so I have laminated a new one out of 2 pieces of ply which I can offset and cut to size to get the right position .
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Old 15 April 2008, 21:28   #31
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Thanks IslandRibber.

Looks like you managed to avoid having to move the stainless-steel tie-down 'U' bolt on the transom and fit the bracket snuggley. Having the auxilliary out of the way is ideal, however as discussed - I have the bench seat as opposed to your jockey seat, so looks like I will have to fit in situ.
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Old 13 May 2008, 22:57   #32
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Update...

Finally fitted a Plastimo adjustable transom bracket. Only 2 positions, it's either up or it's down! Had to grind off one of the bolt apertures from the stainless-steel mount in order to fit. The 7-man Pro has a angled transom and lip, which has caused me no end of problems. With 3 bolts fitted - this should be more than sufficient for the weight of the Tohatsu 3.5hp (18kg - long-shaft). Had to inverse one of the stainless-steel U bolts on the transom in order to fit.

I also took off the moulded nylon mount in order to cut it down slightly. With the transom bracket positioned far left of the main engine, there was still a slight clearance issue. Managed to cut approximately 1" off the right hand side. Now the main engine goes hard lock to lock with no contact with auxilliary.

One thing I have noticed now the auxilliary is fitted, is that there is a degree of movement. The bracket has some lateral and vertical movement. I suspect that's just adjustable brackets for you - as they will never be as rigid as a fixed mount.

To compound this - the Tohatsu [engine up] aluminium push-bolt seems poorly designed. My concern is that when underway in a moderate sea the push-bolt won't be sufficiently strong and could possibly shear with vibration?

Do any of you tether your auxilliaries for added rigidity? I didn't plan for this, but can't see any other way round it. Bleed'n typical!

Pictures to follow.
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Old 10 August 2008, 21:19   #33
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Finally got around to supplying pictures of the auxilliary in place.

The Tohatsu is in the 'down' position when it's being trailered. On the water it's up. To strengthen it, I've added a wood block to support the aluminium push bolt which frankly isn't up to the job. Also, there is a 1" ratchet strap attaching the auxilliary to a stainless steel U bolt on the bench seat to provide tension (avoids the engine bumping up and down) when underway.
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