Fireing up brand new F100F

[DonPeterD]

First time I’m so lucky I get to own a brand new Yamaha F100FEL. So new, it comes in a box with no oil!
Can’t sleep picking it up this week.

If you’re a “turn the key, and just hammer the stick WOT” kinda guy - this thread will be annoying. Seriously.

Personally I have some serious OCD when it comes to taking care of my stuff. So how do I get this baby up and running, giving her the best possible start?

My thoughts are:
Fill oil.
Unplug spark plugs
Spray PTFE into combustion chambers
Crank engine by hand
Mount plugs
Remove thermostat
Spray corrosion guard in cooling channel and on steel parts/bolts of engine.
Cooling water on.
Prime fuel.
Ignition takeoff!!

What are your thoughts?

[Nos4r2]

Pay a dealer to comission it or say goodbye to your warranty.

[DonPeterD]

It’s free, the dealer can do it - but I’d rather do it myself, then I know it’s done right.
And no, this is with full warranty! (Else I would never do it)

[Xk59D]

I think he means that normally unless a dealer does the pdi your warranty is void.

Make sure you follow EXACTLY what the warranty book says as this isn't worth risking your warranty for.

[DonPeterD]

Errr guys it’s simple, it’s stated clearly in the owners manual: if you get the unit with the label, do not start no oil in engine - then don’t start it
If that’s a possibility we are back to my idea, and that will not void warranty. Anyway that isn’t my question here.

[matt h]

If you got OCD dude why actually start it. Stick in in the living room and just stroke it ..What was the question again?

[DonPeterD]

-Are we alone in the universe?
And how do I prep a F100FEL for start, after it comes out of the box!??

[beamishken]

Set it up on a test tank ,Fill it with the correct grade of oil and If you want to get the oil pressure up first, pull the plug caps or ignition feed whichever is easiest and let it crank until the oil light extinguishes it will probably show water from the tell tale at the same time proving the water pump. then reconnect plugs and start.
The engine will have been factory tested then drained for shipping so oil pump should be primed but as your obviously concerned then no harm in re priming it
re check oil level then start up and run
Don't run too long in tank get it in the water and get it loaded
Then follow your preferred run in schedule

[jeffstevens763@g]

i think you're answering your own question here if you're asking how to PDI the engine you would be better letting the dealer do it for you, it will go on diagnostic software with all the values printed out everything on the engine is checked even down to bolt torques and if it has a fault it's not your problem & no warranty issues.

[DonPeterD]

Great. How about a light spray inside the cylinders? Else they are running dry.

[jeffstevens763@g]

i might be wrong but the engine will have run at the factory and the oil drained so it won't be dry plus the cylinder bores are machined with minute little x's which hold oil

[DonPeterD]

Originally Posted by jeffstevens763@g

i think you're answering your own question here if you're asking how to PDI the engine you would be better letting the dealer do it for you, it will go on diagnostic software with all the values printed out everything on the engine is checked even down to bolt torques and if it has a fault it's not your problem & no warranty issues.

If I had owned the shop, that’s how I would do it.
But do you know for a fact, they run diagnostics the first dealer run?
Then it makes very little or no sense they are offering it to me, untouched in original box!?

[jeffstevens763@g]

my engine was in 2015 and the yam i had before that its done because they travel anything can happen but its your call the PDI doesn't cost so why not have it done OMO

[DonPeterD]

Mostly because the workshop is... known for missing details..!

[beamishken]

I wouldn't worry about spraying the cylinders there will be residual oil from it's factory run best thing is to get it running don't be tempted to crank without fuel as some high pressure pumps don't like being run dry . It would be a good idea to upgrade your fuel filtration system as modern injection engines don't like dirty fuel.
I've seen dealer commisions and it's pretty much hook it up and go
They may plug in a diagnostics machine but won't be checking any torques etc when did you last see a new engine with all the bolts paint chipped off from a retorque, modern engines tend to use stretch bolts which don't require initial retorque.
If your reasonably competent which you appear to be you will be fine

[DonPeterD]

Originally Posted by beamishken

I wouldn't worry about spraying the cylinders there will be residual oil from it's factory run best thing is to get it running don't be tempted to crank without fuel as some high pressure pumps don't like being run dry . It would be a good idea to upgrade your fuel filtration system as modern injection engines don't like dirty fuel.
I've seen dealer commisions and it's pretty much hook it up and go
They may plug in a diagnostics machine but won't be checking any torques etc when did you last see a new engine with all the bolts paint chipped off from a retorque, modern engines tend to use stretch bolts which don't require initial retorque.
If your reasonably competent which you appear to be you will be fine

Thanks - and I’ll ask the dealer in writing, if warranty withstand in this procedure.

[beamishken]

The dealer might be happy to do a diagnostic check once you've commisioned it your saving him work you wouldnt be paying him for so I don't see him being upset. You will obviously need to be diplomatic with him as to why you want to do it yourself
Good luck

[DonPeterD]

The manual states after first 20hr a full oil change is needed. And then again at 100hr.
The 20hr is the first time I have heard that, might be me, but is that normal practice? Shipping the costumer out the door in his new boat, and then back again the next week for 1. Oil change!? Hmmm...

[willk]

Originally Posted by DonPeterD

Mostly because the workshop is... known for missing details..!

Engineers make mistakes and take shortcuts just like everyone. Some are better than others. I think you're right to not allow a PDI out of your sight if you feel concerned.

Originally Posted by DonPeterD

Thanks - and I’ll ask the dealer in writing, if warranty withstand in this procedure.

Good plan - you may need it later!

Originally Posted by beamishken

I've seen dealer commisions and it's pretty much hook it up and go
They may plug in a diagnostics machine but won't be checking any torques etc

And I've seen an engine leave PDI with a leaking gearbox - no drain washer refitted. So it can happen...

Originally Posted by beamishken

You will obviously need to be diplomatic with him as to why you want to do it yourself

Absolutely, you can learn a lot from "working" with a good engineer - and the fact that you are there will keep them focused. Be nice to them, it must be dreadful for them!!!

[beamishken]

Originally Posted by DonPeterD

The manual states after first 20hr a full oil change is needed. And then again at 100hr.
The 20hr is the first time I have heard that, might be me, but is that normal practice? Shipping the costumer out the door in his new boat, and then back again the next week for 1. Oil change!? Hmmm...

The reason for the quick oil change is to remove any machining debris that may have been left at assembly it's probably not required but it is good practice and not something I'd be tempted to neglect