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Old 01 November 2018, 11:47   #1
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engine stalling

opinions needed.

whats everyones opinion on my engine stalling? engine ran fine until i changed the fuel bulb for a brand new one but i think it's only coincidence.
fuel tanks cleaned out all filters changed, fuel line all good along with engine service with no electronic issues on the computer.
senario is engine primed till bulb solid as normal engine starts first pull and runs ok then as in the video the revs start to drop and it stalls, if i run it straight away in gear at say 2000 rpm it will run all day without a blip but soon as i let it tickover it stalls.
i've tried it on two tanks with seperate lines and its the same, if i prime the bulb soon as i hear the revs dying it picks up and runs as per the video.
i suspect it's a low pressure pump issue engine hours 80 over 3 years.
not been able to get it to a service agent yet he's too busy i contacted suzuki no reply.
any help advice appreciated.

edit LP pump is a throw away item




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Old 01 November 2018, 12:10   #2
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did you put the fuel bulb in the wrong way around - check the arrow on the bulb, it should point in the direction of flow. apologies if this is a daft suggestion
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Old 01 November 2018, 12:16   #3
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did you put the fuel bulb in the wrong way around - check the arrow on the bulb, it should point in the direction of flow. apologies if this is a daft suggestion
bulb correct direction even left in the vertical position & horizontal cheers
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Old 01 November 2018, 12:49   #4
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id refit the bulb & see what happens
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Old 01 November 2018, 13:38   #5
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id refit the bulb & see what happens
but it does it on a different line and bulb in fact i'd say worse and its shorter in length
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Old 01 November 2018, 13:40   #6
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i'd join you suspecting it's a fuel pump issue - I think there was a thread on fuel pump issues recently
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Old 01 November 2018, 14:44   #7
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I have a fuel pump pressure gauge if you want to pick it up from Mansfield or Farndon, just tees into the supply pipe to the carb before you spend on a new one.
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Old 01 November 2018, 15:56   #8
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If it's carburated I'd suspect carb needing cleaned. Idle jet or air balancer blocked.
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Old 01 November 2018, 16:22   #9
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No it's efi with ecu diagnostics.

I can't remember now... do the diagnostics report on fuel pressure? I would have thought so. If no-one else has posted yes/no I'll have a look around later to see if I can find out.
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Old 01 November 2018, 16:41   #10
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Another "silly" suggestion - but worth checking, and quick to check - check that all the pipes are free of cracks or holes. I had an issue with the engine on a RIB safety boat - found it was due to a cracked hose sucking in air - not fuel!

I know that you have tried it with separate lines, so maybe you only need to check the common lines (near the bulb??)
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Old 01 November 2018, 17:25   #11
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Re diagnostics as far as I can see no fuel pump pressure recorded... just the pump duty cycle percentage.

Diagnostic screen shown around 1min 50sec of this video.

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Old 01 November 2018, 21:54   #12
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Originally Posted by knube1 View Post
I have a fuel pump pressure gauge if you want to pick it up from Mansfield or Farndon, just tees into the supply pipe to the carb before you spend on a new one.
Thanks Knute I'll get back to you on it
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Old 01 November 2018, 22:12   #13
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No it's efi with ecu diagnostics.

I can't remember now... do the diagnostics report on fuel pressure? I would have thought so. If no-one else has posted yes/no I'll have a look around later to see if I can find out.
As David says EFI I don't think fuel pressure is recorded the computer read out does anything electronic I was told nothing mechanical I'm not an expert but having the problem for two seasons is peeing me off trying to prove the fault at the mechanics shop hasn't worked I now have the video to show but my theory is that the pump can keep up with fuel demand when the engine revs high but not on low revs but what puzzles me is my engine will run for 15 mins when it's primed normally and the fuel lead taken off but it will stall well before that now. So the amount of fuel is minute for tick over The other problem is the pump is a sealed throw away so you can't prove the problem.
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Old 02 November 2018, 14:34   #14
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I'd say you have a small crack in a fuel pipe. I had a very similar thing, nearly drove me insane trying to find it. in the end I took off each section of pipe, (and I do mean take off, don't just eyeball it.

Found mine in a short length of pipe coming off the fuel pump. The crack was under the hose clip! When I flexed it I could see it, when I looked at it, it was a hair line crack. Just enough to suck air in and only when I throttled off.

Given it runs when you pump the bulb it has to be fuel shortage.
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Old 02 November 2018, 20:49   #15
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Hi Jeff think I would ask for another engine as this is the second major fault that you have had not looking good for Suzuki I your corner for two engine's to fail
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Old 02 November 2018, 22:57   #16
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Hi Jeff think I would ask for another engine as this is the second major fault that you have had not looking good for Suzuki I your corner for two engine's to fail
Isn't this a sign of things to come though? with all the extra gizmos and complexities I can see self repair of outboards being a thing of the past
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Old 03 November 2018, 08:44   #17
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Well I should have said the casing on the first one was all wrong and moving and now this just ask for a new engine I do agree that engine's will soon have to be done by a dealer especially the way that ecu's are working they have you by the short and curlies no matter what way you look at it [emoji16][emoji16]
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Old 03 November 2018, 09:17   #18
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Neil I think it's a possibility I'll have to strip it down. so far it's been intermittent at the dealers bloody annoying though two seasons now. Got to find the fault HH before I go down new engine route
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Old 03 November 2018, 10:43   #19
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Jeff is this part of the not idling problem you had round Skye or did that get sorted and this is a new problem?
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Old 03 November 2018, 15:37   #20
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Originally Posted by Fenlander View Post
Jeff is this part of the not idling problem you had round Skye or did that get sorted and this is a new problem?
Yes David this is after I went through the two fuel lines I have pressurised them and the fuel separator cleaned both tanks out then had a full service and put on the computer with no faults he ran it for a week and all was ok, on Skye primed the engine all new fuel set off after warm up gave it a blast all good went on idle bang stalled and that was it. I did find it hard to get going initially but found if I started it put into gear primed the bulb it would shoot forward at speed and remain there until I idled again. I got quite good at it in the end but going into caves was a no no and spoilt the trip to some extent. I'm in South Wales at the moment so I've bought new fuel line and bulb the fuel line was new 2 1/2 years ago just wonder if it's de-laminating inside restricting fuel flow at low revs. The mechanic is too busy at present to fit me in but I sent the video he recons it's the pump but I'm going to make sure my bit is ok. What I haven't tried yet is test the lines by vaccume rather than pressure rubber can seal under pressure but leak with a vaccume as the fuel pump would do. Not being able to look at the pump internally is a pain being a throw away item. I might be missing something but all was good until I changed the fuel bulb but I have two well now three so don't think it's that I'll re- hose etc and try again.
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