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Old 12 February 2007, 11:06   #1
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engine muffs too hard

just been to local boat jumble and bought yet another set of muffs as i thought they would be diffrent but no. how do you make them softer so they fit a lot better to the leg ive squeezed the rod to make a closer fit , but the water still keeps blowing past the ends and not a lot into the engine. i dont fancy running engine if theres not enough water going to get inside, cheers andy
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Old 12 February 2007, 11:16   #2
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It could be that the muffs are affected by the cold, in which case they all will do it. Ours does the same thing, but i just hope that the impellor has enough pull to lift the water around the engine. No probs yet! (famous last words...)
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Old 12 February 2007, 11:48   #3
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, but the water still keeps blowing past the ends and not a lot into the engine. i dont fancy running engine if theres not enough water going to get inside, cheers andy
They all do it, once the motors running it'll suck all the water it needs, don't rev the motor though, tickover only!
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Old 12 February 2007, 12:24   #4
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Dirk is right; when you attach the muffs and turn on the water, it has to go somewhere, and as the engine is not running, it squirts out from under the skirt. Even with teh motor running, assuming you've got good flow going through the hose, it'll spray out.

As long as your tell-tale is working, it should be OK.

jky
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Old 12 February 2007, 12:31   #5
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Mine sprays water everywhere!

Why not rev it? The water is entering the cooling system under pressure which has to give it more than if it was sucking it up, surely?

Just wondering as mine sometimes splutters a bit at idle and I often rev it to clear it in case a fouled plug (or whatever) makes it harder to start from cold next time, no apparent ill effects, tell tale is strong at all times.
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Old 12 February 2007, 13:25   #6
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I had some muffs that where made of what looked like rubber they worked really well, but they got ninked out of my pickup. the ones we have now are a type of plastic and mine spray water every where. i have drilled both muffs and put a section of pipe in so water comes out of both sides. still not great.
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Old 12 February 2007, 13:30   #7
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Why not rev it?
A blip is ok, but not sustained high revs, a hose can't supply enough water.
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Old 12 February 2007, 13:31   #8
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Nothing worse than a cold muff, when you want to run your engine.......

Try a little warm water foreplay in the sink, then go and turn it on...

Pete
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Old 12 February 2007, 14:54   #9
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I was waiting for someone to say something like that! tsk tsk
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Old 12 February 2007, 14:55   #10
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A blip is ok, but not sustained high revs, a hose can't supply enough water.
OK - I only blip mine for a couple of seconds anyway. Tell tale shows no signs of weakening though, in fact it gets much stronger with a few revs on. Mind you our mains water here is about 12 bar which I think is a bit above normal spec
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Old 12 February 2007, 15:02   #11
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OK - I only blip mine for a couple of seconds anyway. Tell tale shows no signs of weakening though, in fact it gets much stronger with a few revs on. Mind you our mains water here is about 12 bar which I think is a bit above normal spec
I,d say we have 1.4 here in Essex and 4 bar in France but i bet you can put a fire out quick.Any reason for being so high.
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Old 12 February 2007, 15:07   #12
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If you all had a decent make of engine, such as a Yamaha you would not need muffs. There is a hose input that circulates water from the top to the bottom- its even a standard gardena type of connection..

jonathan
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Old 12 February 2007, 15:31   #13
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If you all had a decent make of engine, such as a Yamaha you would not need muffs. There is a hose input that circulates water from the top to the bottom- its even a standard gardena type of connection..

jonathan
It works ok but you must not start your engine with this system in use.
This injects the water into the cooling system above the impellor so thete is no water around the impellor and will burn out .
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Old 12 February 2007, 15:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eupa View Post
If you all had a decent make of engine, such as a Yamaha you would not need muffs. There is a hose input that circulates water from the top to the bottom- its even a standard gardena type of connection..

jonathan
E-TEC too. Flush it running or not, per the Owner's Manual. Much more civilized and less worrisome than using the muffs.
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Old 12 February 2007, 18:16   #15
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It works ok but you must not start your engine with this system in use.
This injects the water into the cooling system above the impellor so thete is no water around the impellor and will burn out .
I sort of dispute that statement (though I agree one should follow the manual, and not run the motor on the flush attachment.) Running off a powerhead-mounted flush inlet, the water runs backwards down the pumped water line, so it does, in fact, rinse out the impeller and housing. This can be verified by seeing how much water comes out of the intake screens. With the top mounted flush adaptor running the motor causes the impeller to try and pump the draining water back up, and that's where you run into problems (maybe.) I have heard of several people who routinely run the motor on the flush attachment, and have yet to hear of any horror stories (though I'm not going to be the first, either.)

Units with the lower unit flush adaptors (i.e. a threaded insert that goes into a plugged port on the leg, that you connect a hose to; a la Suzuki) may or may not be run, depending on the manufacturer. Suzuki says it's OK; Honda (as far as I know) says you can't.

Short version: Do what the manufacturer suggests in the owners manual, and you shouldn't have any problems.

jky
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Old 13 February 2007, 05:18   #16
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I,d say we have 1.4 here in Essex and 4 bar in France but i bet you can put a fire out quick.Any reason for being so high.
No idea really - but that is what the water authority quoted in a report about something which was published a couple of years ago. I didn't believe it so put my tyre pressure gauge into the end of a hosepipe and it went off the scale instantly! I seem to recall it said that 4 bar was "normal" elsewhere.
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Old 15 February 2007, 17:34   #17
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Flushing engine

I was told by the mechanic at a dealer to run the engine untill its well warmed up as there is a thermostat that needs to open to let the water reach the whole system.

When i flush my suzuki there is a sudden change as the water from the prop hub begins to run hot . This time of year is easy to notice because of steam rising .

My water supply has 8 bar and it needs that full on to keep the tell tale running at full stream . Its probably more the amount of flow it needs rather than the pressure though .
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