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Old 23 January 2015, 07:54   #1
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2011 Evinrude 75 ETEC

Well i have just won a 2011 Evinrude 75 ETEC on ebay and I think I have had it for a steal of a price. It was advertised as spares/repair as although running, it had electrical problems.

The guy worked in a boat yard up in Scotland and this engine came with a hull that he was buying, he said it was too high a HP for him as he was a crab fisherman and the permit was too expensive, so wanted shot of it.

Its not charging the battery at the moment and the engine check light and buzzer is going off, the local dealer has pulled the codes and it says somthing about a 55v circuit is too high. Done a bit of reaseach and i believe this is the EMM board.

It still runs and starts fine in the test tank just it has these electrical issues.

I only paid £1300 for it which i am still amazed how cheap it was, mechanically seems fine with good compression, injectors are all tested/working.

Obviously when its this cheap you suspect stolen, but he was happy to supply the engine numbers and it came with everything and 2 keys plus a history of where he bought it from.

What is the going price for a 2011 ETEC?, must be £4k all day long?

Even if i end up replacing the EMM, i think its a winner, plus this will sit lovely on the back of my Rib! Goodbye to my Merc carb 2 stroke!! :P Hello next gen 2stroke
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Old 23 January 2015, 07:59   #2
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My bet is on the EMM....

£1300 is a good price, if it all ends badly i bed you could sell the parts for about the same.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:14   #3
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I have priced up the parts, a new stator is $250 and an EMM is $850, not sure in £'s just yet as all the sites were quoting in dollars.

Although a defective stator i would imagine would cause havoc with the onboard electricals throwing out the incorrect voltage, so will change that first and see how i get on.

Is it true that i cant fit a 2nd hand EMM from another engine of the same year, i read somthing about it being tuned to the individual injectors or somthing, but from working on injected car engines for years, that seems ridiculous.

Any info would be appreciated
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:15   #4
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if its just the EMM, then you could be in luck, make sure the rest if its ok (compression, gearbox etc)...

As Steve said its worth what you paid all day in parts alone.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:17   #5
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Sounds like the EMM, about £1k to replace, give or take. Usually caused by dodgy battery connections or isolator. If the battery is disconnected or has a poor connection with the engine running, it pops the charging cct in the EMM. Give Mike Vincent at South Coast Marine a call he'll give you a good price for a replacement. If you have an engine report, post it up & let's take a look.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:20   #6
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Yes i have got the engine report here, let me post it up.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:20   #7
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Ohh the stator and fly wheel!! Read my other post -> http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/e-tec-w...wer-60899.html

My issue was low voltage, 55 Volt Below Range

I found Liverpool Power Boats brilliant for ordering parts, most parts next day and cheaper than other dealers on down south.

I have EV Daig if you need any help in the future with codes.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:21   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mctaggart View Post
I have priced up the parts, a new stator is $250 and an EMM is $850, not sure in £'s just yet as all the sites were quoting in dollars.

Although a defective stator i would imagine would cause havoc with the onboard electricals throwing out the incorrect voltage, so will change that first and see how i get on.

Is it true that i cant fit a 2nd hand EMM from another engine of the same year, i read somthing about it being tuned to the individual injectors or somthing, but from working on injected car engines for years, that seems ridiculous.

Any info would be appreciated

Posts crossed. You can't just transplant another EMM from a similar engine, you have to programme in the injector co-efficients. Each individual injector has a unique set of parameters that have to be programmed into the EMM. It's not as complicated as it sounds & takes about 1/2 an hour with the laptop. You basically copy the data from the old EMM & load it into the new one. If you get an engine report, it will tell you straight away if it's the stator/EMM or both.
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:40   #9
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here are the pages from the report he game me prior to me picking it up












Craig
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:49   #10
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Looks like its already had a new EMM?

Engine Hours - 221
EMM Hours - 8

I would check flywheel and stator....
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:52   #11
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Ah yes, good eyes SteveHall, i didnt even notice that It does say it needs a new stator so lets prey thats causing all the electric issues, will be a bloody result if it is
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Old 23 January 2015, 08:56   #12
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Well if you get the flywheel off you will see what state that's in and the stator.

Its amazing how many problems the fault with mine caused - all because some magnets had fallen off.
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Old 23 January 2015, 09:52   #13
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Something's not quite right, the hand written report says that the problem is LOW 55v, but the printout says HIGH 55v. The last time that the fault occurred was at 220 hours which, if the timeline is correct, would be after the EMM was changed (if it has been). The EMM should have 4 LEDS, which should all go out in turn with the engine running, if LED 1 is on with the engine running, it would indicate a fault on the 55V side, BUT the engine should be in S.A.F.E. mode. There is a capacitor usually fastened to the trim/tilt relay, make sure the connections to the capacitor are good. If you have the facility to have the capacitor tested, get it done before you spend any money, a knackered capacitor will cause a high 55v fault.
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Old 23 January 2015, 11:59   #14
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I almost bid against you as I thought it would be perfect for me as I am looking for a nice 75hp.
I hope its good for you.
I walked away from it as I thought it said it had got wet, I thought maybe it has been submerged.
Lots of bargains on ebay at the minute, Just yesterday I watched a 2005 suzuki 75hp 4 stroke go for £1380. What a bargain It was just to heavy for me.
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Old 23 January 2015, 13:06   #15
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The engineer found a corroded connector so went with the assumption it may have been submerged, but that was speculation.

I get to find out properly tomorrow when i get to give it a good going over, thanks for the info and tips on what to look out for.

Craig
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Old 24 January 2015, 07:27   #16
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E-tec repair manual

I hope this will help


page 129 testing the stator
page 140 refers to the magnets


http://cydric16.free.fr/evinrude%20e..._90hp_2007.pdf
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Old 26 January 2015, 09:35   #17
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Well i have given the motor to GowerMarine in S.Wales to take a look. Fingers crossed they can repair it, they have done some great work for me in the past so will see!
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Old 26 January 2015, 11:00   #18
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Keep us posted... and I hope its not too expensive.
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Old 26 January 2015, 11:45   #19
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This is a good site for ETEC owners:

Owners Message Board
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Old 24 February 2015, 13:57   #20
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Well i thought i would give you an update on my Rib and how i got along fixing this engine, well i can tell you that the electrical fault was fixed

Turned out the plug from the stator has melted and messed up the wiring, the plug was cut off and a replacement fitted and the engine runs sweet as a nut with no faults and to top it off i found out that it still has a year of warranty still on it!

Its on the boat now and I am very happy, just need to take it out for a spin and see how she goes
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