SIBing some Small Isles by The Gurnard

[The Gurnard]

With the warm winds of summer now a long distant memory, I sit in my house huddled over a little electric heater. Outside... the winter gales try their best to rip the tarpaulin off my SIB which is stored in its winter berth, on a trailer beside my house. As torrential rain and sleet slide across the glass of my single glazed windows .. I have to remind myself that summer will return.
I guess Im one of those SAD bar stewards (Seasonal Adjustment Disorder) so to cheer myself up a little.. I turned my thoughts back to last summer ... and although it was not the best SIB year for me ... I did manage a couple of epic journeys.
Without doubt my fondest memories of last summer SIBing was of a 100 mile journey taking in Loch Nevis and two of the Small Isles.. the Islands of Eigg and Muck. It consisted of a three day wild camp adventure.

Below is a small map and beyond the map.. the start of my wittering prose and photographs of the journey. I hope they help bring a little summer SIBing inspiration to you too.



My adventure started at a campsite just north of Arisaig. Although I often wild camp ..if Im going to be SIBing for a few days.. I prefer leaving the car and trailer in a campsite . .rather than abandoning it beside the road. It gives peace of mind the car will still be there on my return. Besides..I like Portnadoran Campsite.



There is lots to do at Arisaig.. it is famous for its seals and skerries ..and the water is always crystal clear. The island of Eigg is off shore and under cloud.. in this photo.



Because it is very tidal and has lovely sandy shores..its easy to set up a mooring when the tide is out. I have a large galvanised cork screw which I sink into the sand .. and attach a buoy and rope to the screw with a suitable length of chain. I have been known to moor at the end of this sheltered bay.



However I was not parking my SIB up on this adventure ...so shoved SIB and trailer down the grass bank beside my camp pitch.. hauled it across the rocky shore .. wrestled SIB off the trailer .. then went to set up camp as I awaited the returning tide.



After pitching tent.. having a coffee ..and the predictable after coffee pee.. the tide was soon lapping at the back of the boat.



Moments later I was cruising happily along the coast towards the town of Mallaig ..which sits at the entrance to Loch Nevis.. arguably one of the remotest and most beautiful sea lochs in Scotland.



To be continued...

[Chris Caton]

great pics n a great part of the world, worth a touch of sleet

[The Gurnard]

Thanks for looking in Chris... and I agree .. the Arisaig Area is a truly magical land.
As I neared Mallaig, I was delighted to see a long column of smoke and steam .. chugging and chuffing its way along the seafront.



I instantly knew it was “The Jacobite” steam train which runs herds of tourists between Fort William and Mallaig...and back again.



Many nickname the train the “Hogwart Express” after the Harry Potter movie which featured the train crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct.



The train was taking Harry and his mates to the magic school which featured in his movies.



I wasn’t going to a magic school.. but I knew I was about to embark on a magical journey ..into an enchanted land.
To be continued ....

[Boatnomad]

Fascinating as always

[kerny]

I never ever get bored with your posts Gurnard they are all just awesome mate .

Thank you.... and I wish you many, many more adventures for the coming year. All the very best to you Gurnard

[Olly570]

Great pics and good read, I'm originally from that area and spent my first 15 or so years SIB-ing about up there - great to see 👍

[Wozizname]

As ever your threads are always a great read with fantastic photos which us fellow SIBers find inspiring
Not doing my 'Itch' any good at all though to get back out on the water very soon!
Just mentioned a trip up the Thames from Putney Bridge to the Barrier and take in the sights over the Xmas/New Year to the Mrs and
Looks like trip on my own then

[The Gurnard]

Hey ...thanks for all the kind comments guys.I get a lot of fun reliving my adventures and posting about them.. so only too happy to know you enjoy them.

Perhaps I should add that a SIB adventure into Loch Nevis is not to be taken lightly. I had been planning this journey for a while ... waiting patiently for a three of four day weather window with calm seas. It was the last week in June when the high pressure area finally arrived and I made my way past Mallaig. It was just a pity the calm seas didn’t coincide with sunny sky ..but I couldn’t have everything.



I momentarily poked my nose into Mallaig Harbour ...but the eight foot high cement sculptured fisherman and daughter who guard the pier .. seemed to beacon me on my way. They were conceived by a local sculptor who lives on the remote Knoydart peninsula



Leaving the fishing port.. I turned right..and looked straight into the wide mouth of Loch Nevis. Brooding clouds capped the summits of the majestic mountains surrounding this remote loch, however they didn’t distract from the atmosphere of the area



I decided to savour the moment by first crossing the mouth of the loch to the far side and then exploring Sandaig Bay. It is a sheltered sandy beach surrounded by some rocky islands. Even in a calm sea, there was still a considerable swell which reminded me how things can quickly change if a wind started to blow. I love the feeling of acceleration as a large wave picks up the SIB by its rear end and starts to hurl the boat towards the shore. I try to stay on its crest for as long as I can by adjusting the outboard speed.



Landing on a small sandy beach near Sandaig Bay, I quickly turned the SIBs nose into the oncoming swell and anchored it by the bow. The tide was now on the turn and my boat is too heavy to move on my own if left high and dry by a falling tide.



I wanted to investigate a small hut that I had noticed from the sea. It seemed strange to see such a man made structure in the barren landscape. When I got closer..I realised what it was. It was the cable hut where the submarine telephone cable came ashore to feed the remote Knoydart community. From a distance..it looked like it needed more than a lick of paint to freshen it up.




Closer inspection proved it was still working. I spent twenty years of my youth repairing BT lines so smiled when I saw the state of this cable hut. It is the best example of BT neglect that I have ever seen.



However ..it didn’t surprise me. Knoydart communications are almost non existent. The community is not connected to the road network of Scotland. .. and to reach the village of Inverie involves a seven mile boat journey ..or a twenty mile hike over the mountains.
I also knew that shortly.. my handheld VHF would be as much use as a chocolate telephone. When SIBing in remote Loch Nevis.. you are entirely on your own. Only the stags and eagles will hear you scream if things go wrong.

To be continued...

[SteveHall]

This is brilliant. Thank you


Sent from my iPad using RIB Net

[Olly570]

Another great read 👍

[Brian]

If only I could take photographs half as good as you......

[beerbelly]

looks great a little sad for me tho as we were going to go to arisaig next summer but have booked to go to a site on the island of luing now hopefully it will be just as nice.looking forward to the next instalment

[camelgas]

Enjoyable read, as always.

[The Black Pig]

Any journeys planned for down SW ?

[The Gurnard]

Thanks again for the encouragement guys. I have more adventures than Para Handy had to tell... I just need the dutch courage to post about them.

Beerbelly.. Im certain you will love Luing.. the Cuan Sound in full flood on springs is a great place to play in a SIB ..but only on calm days. If you feel really adventurous .. a trip to the Garvellachs is a must. Im hoping for a wild camp there next year .. among the beehives the monks of old made for meditation. They went there in coracles ..so a SIB will easily do it in good conditions.

I get nose bleeds if I go too far South Black Pig..Im a Teuchter by heart.

Back to Sandaig Bay.. it is a lovely remote area ..and the only footprints on the shore..were actually hoof prints.. of the wild stags that roam the area. It is unfortunate the sun wasn’t shining for my photos.





I did catch one glimpse of the sun as I left the bay. In a split second of brilliant light ..it cast a spell and turned the sea a lovely emerald green. Then it was gone ... and I was back to a grey and white seascape.





I was now heading east into Loch Nevis itself...





You know you are in Loch Nevis when you pass “Plastic Mary” standing on a rocky knoll.. giving her blessing to all who pass.






Actually “Plastic Mary” is a very unfair term for the Madonna. She was placed there in good faith by the Catholic Community and she is actually made of GRP..not plastic.





Moments later I was passing the inner cross ..on my way to Inverie





This is what Inverie looks like with slightly less Scotch mist on the hills.. I took the photo on my last visit there..but went by commercial ferry and not SIB




I was now looking forward to a night in the most remote pub in the UK ....

To be continued ...

[Biggy]

I started reading this at 7am yesterday morning, never posted as I didn't want to interrupt your thread.
Since joining this forum I've followed a lot of what you do. I find your posts are always entertaining, educational and inspiring. I take my hat and coat of to you pal.
Every one of your adventures shows the capability of a so called "flappy floor boat", it's great to see the potential of a sib. I for one would be delighted to follow/join you on an exploration.
Roll on the SIB gathering.

[Barrowboy]

Great stuff, as always, Gurnard. Look forward to the next instalment

[The Gurnard]

If Inverie looks a little depressing under the heavy sky in this photo.. it was anything but. It was warm with hardly a breath of wind. It was also still a little early in the year for the dark clouds of midges that can descend from the heights on nights like this ...in a few weeks time.



I passed the village and landed on Long Beach. There is a lovely community campsite there and it is where I intended staying for the night. I wasn’t too happy leaving the SIB on the exposed shore.. and tide times were a bit out of sync to re launch it early in the morning if I beached it.



So searched around and found a more suitable place ... a river mouth at the end of the campsite. The perfect parking spot for my boat..and it was deep enough so I could get an early start in the morning.



I chatted happily with the Aussie accented guy living in this boat. He mentioned he first arrived ten years ago..and has never left since. I confess... at the time I envied him a little.. but now.. listening to the wind howl outside my house ..and how cold it is in December..I no longer long for his lifestyle.



I set up home for the nigh near the boats in the river. Home was of course my trusty Tesco Value tent. Since then... I have retired it. When my old mom passed away and left me a little inheritance.. I splashed out and bought a brand new Vango banshee 300 tent. Im looking forward to trying it out in the spring.



Once camp was up ..I took a walk along the campsite. It is quiet and mostly hillwalkers that use its facilities for the princely price of four squid per night.



Which is worth every penny as there are toilets and a wooden shelter plus BBQ area. Loads of free firewood too..



Then I walked the short distance into Inverie village itself. I was looking for the “Old Forge”..the most remote pub in the UK.



Its not difficult to find either... there are only a dozen or so houses on the main street



I settled down to scoff the house special. Fresh Loch Nevis Langoustines.. almost the size of lobsters.
Oh..and a glass of their delicious “Black Magic Juice”.



In fact ..I had several glasses ..which had a very strange effect on me.. as you will find out in the next instalment ....

[jeffstevens763@g]

really enjoying this cheers keep it coming

[Firefly]

Nothing quite beats mucking about on water...