Searider 5.4 Project - Page 2

colcreate · 28 August 2010, 09:51

Flatted off the gelcoat with wet & dry; 180's, 320's, 500's & finally 800's grit to an even matt black finish.
Half the hull has now been machine buffed with Farecla profile 300 liquid using an 8" wool head. The finish is like black glass, well chuffed! Can't wait to get the pods fitted.
This project is turning out better than I ever imagined, to think I nearly scrapped it in the first week.
(the white specs are residue of the buffing compound , it got everywhere)

C-NUMB · 28 August 2010, 12:15

great looking finish and color! I have considered to paint a hull with 2 comp pu color, never taught one can get such good finish with topcoat

TMB · 28 August 2010, 13:31

Fantastic results!!!! Well done!

ribraff · 29 August 2010, 15:32

In some ways it's such a shame you have to turn this over, an amazing finish, well done!

DJS · 01 September 2010, 19:53

The Hull looks fantastic and a credit to all your hard work, I am removing the console on my own boat as it’s in the wrong place and is full off holes from folk who over the years just drilled fresh hole for new electronics.

I had thought of painting it with two pack paint but after seeing you results I am wondering if I should flow coat!!

Please keep the updates coming as it’s an inspiration!!

colcreate · 03 September 2010, 19:57

Hull is now fully buffed! Needs touching up on a couple of edges where I rubbed through but it shouldn't be a problem to touch up with a fine brush and flat off.

I want to start fitting the pods on Sunday (weather permitting) but could do with some advice from other members with 5.4 seariders. I can't remember exactly how the pods were fitted originally and need to know the widths of the mounting strips. I have guessed
and sketched out how I think they might have looked but if anybody can check I would appreciate it. Also any advice from those trade members on how best to do this would be gratefully received.

markg · 03 September 2010, 20:13

not a searider but i used 40x40mm inner strips and 130mm strips on the underside of the flange, just remember to cut the fabric across the bias for the understrips when you are following the curve of the hull, if you are doing it outside and it rains whilst you are glueing, dab the water off with a dry cloth and give it a good wipe down with toluene then a bit of heat

colcreate · 03 September 2010, 20:22

Here's a photo straight after I finished buffing, just needs waxing now!
(I must try and find my 4" holesaw to recut the drain hole).
The black finish shows every fingerprint, spec of dust and wood pigeon dropping.... think I should have sprayed it white!

Loads more pictures on my website: http://avonsearider.co.uk/gallery
MarkG - Thanks for the tips I have just enough hypalon cut on the bias to use on the curves, the rest will have to be cut across the cloth from another piece.

Downhilldai · 03 September 2010, 21:16

Nice job

Hopefully, you shouldn't get much birdshit on it when it's the right way up

colcreate · 05 September 2010, 11:02

Anybody got more detailed info on fitting Searider tubes?
Or would any of the trade members like to quote for doing a proper job?
Fit tubes & rubbing strake (probably other bits as well).

markg · 05 September 2010, 15:59

have you got the fitting kit or have you got to cut it yourself?
have a read of this thread http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...=super+student

colcreate · 05 September 2010, 19:44

No fitting kit I'm afraid. I have an assortment of original Avon fittings (handles, pouches straps etc), 20mt of flat rubbing strake and a couple of mt's of hypalon to work with.
I have fitted tubes before but made it up as I went along and I'm not the tidiest with a pot of glue.... It would be nice to get this one spot on and as close to original first time!
It's at least 2 years since I ripped off the old pods and I can't remember exactly how they were bonded. I think there might have been a backing strip glued to the inner flange & U shaped strip as well as a "T" shaped rubber moulding on the inner face of the transom and some webbing over the top of it but not sure. The old pods had been messed up so badly it was difficult to tell what was original and what was makeshift repairs, both sides were different.
I'm confident I could fit them once I see how they were done originally, but I'm not adverse to spending a bit of cash to get it done professionally either. It would then leave me time to get started on the console and fabricating all the stainless, jobs that I enjoy!

diverdad · 05 September 2010, 20:38

What is that you are sat on in post No 12?

Thanks

Lee

colcreate · 05 September 2010, 22:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by diverdad

What is that you are sat on in post No 12?

Thanks

Lee

14ft length 16" dia copper tube that weighed over 100kg, took 3 large lifting bags to rip it free and send it up!

markg · 06 September 2010, 22:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by colcreate

No fitting kit I'm afraid. I have an assortment of original Avon fittings (handles, pouches straps etc), 20mt of flat rubbing strake and a couple of mt's of hypalon to work with.
I have fitted tubes before but made it up as I went along and I'm not the tidiest with a pot of glue.... It would be nice to get this one spot on and as close to original first time!
It's at least 2 years since I ripped off the old pods and I can't remember exactly how they were bonded. I think there might have been a backing strip glued to the inner flange & U shaped strip as well as a "T" shaped rubber moulding on the inner face of the transom and some webbing over the top of it but not sure. The old pods had been messed up so badly it was difficult to tell what was original and what was makeshift repairs, both sides were different.
I'm confident I could fit them once I see how they were done originally, but I'm not adverse to spending a bit of cash to get it done professionally either. It would then leave me time to get started on the console and fabricating all the stainless, jobs that I enjoy!

you dont have to be tidy with glue, but you do need to be fairly right with the masking tape, if you do get glue where it shouldnt be you can wash it off with toluene, the t piece which you could make from hypalon folded back on itself is the first bond between the transom and tube, the fitting bits are a pain though, if you dont have a fitting kit you will have to cut a piece of fabric, see if fits and looks right where you want it to go, i had to do this with mine , i think you should maybe call avon i have seen an avon tube fitting kit for sale somewhere, maybe paul tilley or henshaws have a pattern, where in the country are you? if you do decide to diy and are not too far i might be able to give you a hand

colcreate · 09 September 2010, 20:10

Thank you to all the forum members who have given me tips and advice on fitting these tubes. I have now had a good look at how re-tubing companies fit them as well as the original Avon methods and am confident I can do the job myself.

geir · 11 September 2010, 18:56

Remarkable job, you'll need to pad the trailer with lambswool to avoid spoiling the finish when launching

ribraff · 11 September 2010, 19:37

Good luck with it, make sure you put the pic's up and if you need any info be happy to help.

colcreate · 11 September 2010, 22:10

Its been raining today so glueing things together outdoors has been a none starter. I stayed inside and did some work on my web site www.avonsearider.co.uk. Theres a bit more text on there now as I want it to be more like a diy guide as well as my personal scrapbook.
There's a boat jumble on tomorrow Sunday 12 Sept, (300 metres from Jct. 18 off M6. Middlewich, Cheshire CW4 7LN) I will be there buying shiny things and other peoples cr*p as usual. Let me know if any of you are going.
Ribraff, thank you for sending over the fitting info it was brilliant.
I have bought another 3m of black Hypalon so can afford to get creative when I do eventually fit the tubes.

colcreate · 09 July 2012, 18:24

It's been a while but i'm finally getting close to getting this in the water!