How to Make Your Own Windscreen

July 2, 2009 at 8:53 pm by


After seeing many posts regarding windscreens, and the fact I have yet another pattern to add to my collection. thought that I may give my input and assist other DIYer’s

A.) cut some card board to represent shape that you are looking for

B.) transfer card board shape to section of acrylic, always have acrylic longer than req for now,


C.) the acrylic, best choice lexan (but bloody expensive) makralon ready available, most sign makers will give you an off cut,,or main suppliers are amari plastics, William cox, Robert horne, thysenn Garfield, autohass to mention a few, plexiglass also come’s cheap which I use more frequently than any thing else, only cause its free (sure I can find a suitable piece here)

D.) back to business, this is the diy way, I make templates from ali as its not a one of job for me, tape acrylic central on console as shown using good heat gun; (again I have a radiant heater)warm up acrylic till it starts to move, let cool off slightly then heat again till soft enougth to form, pull around console edge as shown, warm up when in position then hold till cooled of, repeat procedure for other side,






E.) after cooling cut with band saw or jig saw and taper or radius, as you desire for your application LITTLE TIP- use selotape over cut line before cutting this will lubricate blade as you cut and with lexan/makralon stops it melting back together,, sand all edges nice and smooth, then further wet dry as best as possible, now I am spoilt I have a MEK flame polisher, lovely finish, but its possible with Duraglit and some elbow grease, this is Bayer Green in photo clear acrylic but green edge when polished,(D>M> sir this is your’;s)





F.) fitting I always use white nylon number plate screws, if it goes tits up and some one does grab a screen with out a rail around it, it will snap the screws before decapitating you or being broke.

G.) Heating product twice helps it stay in shape and forming is easier, take your time it will move so easy once warm do not force it, gloves are good for obvious reasons, I use a bit of 1.0mm fomex as I like my hands,

H.)Drilling, so many break them once complete, std metal drill 6.5mm for me get it and just quickly drill it into concrete just on floor or some thing 2 sec’s just to take the edge of it, stops it snagging, plus take your time, after all the hard work you have done why ruin it now, be patient.

I.) Polishing, MEK is ace but not really a DIY product, plenty wet n dry 800grit then glitto or brasso will get you the same finish, worth the effort me thinks,






Contributed by nugent

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