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-   -   Etec Winterisation. (http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/etec-winterisation-44927.html)

Mollers 06 November 2011 13:03

Etec Winterisation.
 
Summer officially ended at Chez Moll today. Both Joes were put to bed.

Little Joe had a dash of fuel stabilizer, a 5 min run on muffs, stalled on fogging oil. Washed, dryed and thoroughly whiffed over with Wurth Ultra 20/40. :)

I again had to RTFM (refer to f'ng manual) to auto fog the Etec. When rinsing down, I decided to remove the mid section GRP covers, 5 bolts and unplug the trim switch. Glad I did, there were some hefty salt crystals hiding in there. I'm meticulous about flushing and washing down after every trip, but it's an awkward spot to get at.
I went over the exposed castings with a soft brush, warm water and a dash of turtlewax shampoo. Finished off by lightly rinsing the whole motor down. Put away with covers off with an industrial dehume doing it's thing.

In short, check behind the mid section cowls. :)

Pikey Dave 06 November 2011 15:35

I just plug the laptop in, download an engine report for the season & click on the winterise button & it does, job done easy peasy:thumbs:

Mollers 06 November 2011 15:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave (Post 428693)
I just plug the laptop in, download an engine report for the season & click on the winterise button & it does, job done easy peasy:thumbs:

Really? I'm Mr. 'Low Tech'. :D Where d'ya get the cable? :)

Pikey Dave 06 November 2011 15:52

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers (Post 428695)
Really? I'm Mr. 'Low Tech'. :D Where d'ya get the cable? :)

Made it, piece of p155. Get an old 9 pin serial cable & a 3 pin Deutsch connector of ebay for about 3 quid. 10 minutes with a soldering iron & Robert's ya muvvers bruvver. The software can be acquired if you know where to look:whistling:

Mollers 06 November 2011 16:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pikey Dave (Post 428701)
Made it, piece of p155. Get an old 9 pin serial cable & a 3 pin Deutsch connector of ebay for about 3 quid. 10 minutes with a soldering iron & Robert's ya muvvers bruvver. The software can be acquired if you know where to look:whistling:

:eek: Might have to stick with the analog method. ;)

BogMonster 07 November 2011 01:21

Good advice, thanks, will have a look at that. I guess a good spray up with WD40 while the covers are off will not hurt. I've already got corrosion (tin worm) under the paint on the lower unit despite the boat never being left in the water overnight and always being washed. I guess it's going to look pretty second hand by the time it is a few years old. Maybe that is why people buy white ones, that way the corrosion doesn't show up!!!

Do you winterise yours on muffs or the flushing adaptor? I've still not got my head around how connecting a water inlet hose to the water outlet can work when the engine is running, so I've always winterised mine at the beach and then flushed it with it off but wonder what others do.

Pikey Dave 07 November 2011 03:40

I always use muffs, I'm with you on the flushing port doodah. It's not right! I always rinse the head down after each trip. I sprayed the heads with the BRP corrostop spray 2 seasons ago & it's still as fresh as the day it went on. Brilliant stuff, but doesn't look pretty. It looks like waxoyl, I think that every time the engines get hot, the stuff softens & reforms as it cools. There's not a hint of corrosion anywhere. I will drop the cowls off though & give them a good going over.

two stroke mick 07 November 2011 03:54

Flush on the muffs. After every use I take the cowl off and give a light speary of fresh water to the power head. I usually put thwe house down into the lower covers to remove salt buildup. I pulled the lower covers off after 60 hrs use and found it to be clean.

Fill the oil tank. When the power head drys I replace cowl

TSM

Chris 07 November 2011 12:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by BogMonster (Post 428727)
Good advice, thanks, will have a look at that. I guess a good spray up with WD40 while the covers are off will not hurt. I've already got corrosion (tin worm) under the paint on the lower unit despite the boat never being left in the water overnight and always being washed. I guess it's going to look pretty second hand by the time it is a few years old. Maybe that is why people buy white ones, that way the corrosion doesn't show up!!!

Do you winterise yours on muffs or the flushing adaptor? I've still not got my head around how connecting a water inlet hose to the water outlet can work when the engine is running, so I've always winterised mine at the beach and then flushed it with it off but wonder what others do.

I got a patch of this on my lower unit and it started where I had a tiny stone chip that I think happened when towing. as soon as it grew to 5p size I took a dremel to it and ground it down to bare metal, then a few coats of thick primer and sanded it back before spraying some etec blue on top. It looked almost perfect even though I masked it off all the way round and never came back over the course of two years.

Chris 07 November 2011 13:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mollers (Post 428659)
I decided to remove the mid section GRP covers, 5 bolts and unplug the trim switch. Glad I did, there were some hefty salt crystals hiding in there.

In short, check behind the mid section cowls. :)

Glad to see not all my posts go unappreciated ;)

http://www.rib.net/forum/f36/etec-co...tml#post304283


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