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Old 21 June 2012, 01:38   #11
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Originally Posted by paul tilley View Post
try using it with the tubes deflated , if you think it is safe for your requirements re-inflate and tie a rope over the tube in the bows to hold the tube down in case the bolt rope comes off .you can the use the boat whilst saving for new tubes
So, in theory a RIB should float (and even drive) in calm water with the tubes deflated?

Could you explain how I would tie the tubes (sounds like a vasectomy )
Would a tie a rope through the grab handle and across to the grab handle on the other side? or would the rope somehow be attached to the actual hull?

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 21 June 2012, 05:39   #12
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From the picture you posted they don't look that bad. If they are holding air for 1 day+ and the baffles are intact too then you have a good start.

In theory your boat should float with the tubes deflated. You can test this (probably best to deflate slowly until you start to get concerned).

I think what Paul was suggesting is that a rope from the bow eye on the GRP hull up over the tube at the front and secured somewhere inside the front of the boat (perhaps an anchor locker) will reduce the risk of catastrophic detachment.
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Old 21 June 2012, 06:57   #13
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polwart is correct ,tie from bow eye over tube to inside of boat
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Old 21 June 2012, 13:13   #14
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Originally Posted by ZodiacDan View Post
So, in theory a RIB should float (and even drive) in calm water with the tubes deflated?
I think this will depend on the exact nature of the failure. If a front chamber goes it should be possible to still drive the boat. If an aft chamber goes perhaps not. It will depend on the weight you are carrying and the distribution.

On my Zodiac, the weight it concentrated at the back (engine, battery, fuel, driver). The aft ends of the tubes are in contact with the water most of the time. The front part of the tubes rarely touch the water (the hull rises towards the front) even at idle speeds.

If the tube separates from the hull at the back of the boat the hull is likely to remain afloat but will probably be awash. I don't know if you can drive it this way, but it should not sink.
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Old 21 June 2012, 13:47   #15
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On my Zodiac, the weight it concentrated at the back (engine, battery, fuel, driver). The aft ends of the tubes are in contact with the water most of the time.
Question is where the highest point of the hull sits with relation to the waterline. Losing a tube (or section, I should say) should not affect buoyancy enough to allow water over the hull, at least at rest. Don't know about underway, but I'd think you'd get some amount of lift off the hull, which should help.

I think having the tubes go at the front would be a worse scenario, as any water getting in there (and there will likely be a lot as you beat into seas) will pool in the hull, reducing overall buoyancy.

All speculation on my part, though.

jky
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Old 21 June 2012, 13:57   #16
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Hi CaptJack,

Thanks for your response.

What is the best way to check the bolt rope? Do I deflate the tube totally and then check where the tube meets the main hull

The only picture I could find is this one
:: OutBoard Direct ::

but it is hard to see any detail in the image regarding the bolt rope location.

Thanks,
Daniel
The boltrope is labeled here. When the bow pushes into a wave is when+where it sees the highest forces pulling the boltrope away from the tube. The bow portion of the tube then rips off the hull and folds back over the operator. So that's the most critical area to be checking for old dried out glue and potential failure.
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Old 22 June 2012, 14:52   #17
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Originally Posted by Polwart View Post
From the picture you posted they don't look that bad. If they are holding air for 1 day+ and the baffles are intact too then you have a good start.

In theory your boat should float with the tubes deflated. You can test this (probably best to deflate slowly until you start to get concerned).

I think what Paul was suggesting is that a rope from the bow eye on the GRP hull up over the tube at the front and secured somewhere inside the front of the boat (perhaps an anchor locker) will reduce the risk of catastrophic detachment.
thank you, i will check the baffles. Do I do this by deflating one chamber and seeing if the neighbouring chamber deflates?
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Old 22 June 2012, 16:58   #18
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thank you, i will check the baffles. Do I do this by deflating one chamber and seeing if the neighbouring chamber deflates?
In theory each chamber should be able to take full pressure. If you deflate one the neighboring ones will push the baffle towards the empty one and so appear to have leaked themselves. So try deflating every other chamber. Then inflate the remaining chambers until they are at least full shape - to full pressure if you choose. They should remain full at least overnight. Then repeat deflating the full ones and inflating the formerly empty ones. Then you'll have confirmed that each chamber is holding air on its own and not leaking into either an adjacent chamber or to outside.
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Old 19 November 2012, 23:20   #19
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Tube Leak

Hello,

We have a 2001 zodiac open pro in the Long Island Sound area. This season we had some serious leaking and upon hauling the boat have discovered that the leaks are coming from the seals towards the stern. The underside of the tube seams to have a fair amount of breakdown, but it is certainly the seals where the leaking is happening. I wondered if anyone has ever successfully patched/repaired this problem to get a few more seasons out of the current tubes? Or is it a lost cause as the tubes are now 11 years old? Also, what is the cost of full replacement? Would it make more sense to replace with hypalon? (currently have PVC) or would that be entirely more expensive and harder to do with a zodiac? Many thanks in advance for any help people can provide.

Thanks, GJG
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Old 20 November 2012, 09:11   #20
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If general fabric condition looks old, faded, whatever, you can find in the market fabric rajeunissement products that will make that fabric look in near mint conditions again.. Afterwards can apply a good overdose of Aerospace Protectant 303 for sun's UV extra protection.

Happy Boating
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