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Old 25 June 2007, 19:13   #41
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Whats a searider
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Old 25 June 2007, 19:15   #42
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Whats a searider
Oh, come on... I'm not going to have to use the sarcasm detector on an Osprey owner am I?
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Old 25 June 2007, 20:52   #43
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I don't know your engine but it occured to me that if the tilt and trim system was filled with fluid while the engine was in the lift position, there would become a fluid block at some point as the engine is lowered because there would be no place for the excess fluid to go. When you solve the trim hydraulics problem, the position of the trim stop rod is important because it prevents the engine being trimmed in too far. Trimming in too far can produce severe steering behaviour, which could eject you from the boat, so it's worth going gently while determining the bar's position.

Lowering your engine is straightforward. Since you will need to destroy your lower engine bolts to slacken them, replace them first but leave them slightly loose. Place a block of wood and a jack under the skeg of the engine, remove the top bolts and lower the engine until the desired top holes line up with the holes in the transom and then replace the top bolts. Remembering about fully tightening the lower ones too.

I wouldn't adjust the engine height until the trim problem is sorted. The height may prove to be correct.

I don't know why your transom has cracked but my guess is that the transom construction is hollow and it only has an infill in the area of the engine mountings. If the transom flexed under load, which I would expect it to do, there will be a load on the join of the inner and outer transom faces and that join looks to be a simple butt joint and it's not able to withstand the load. For a proper fix you need to remove the engine. There are various ways to repair it depending on the lengths you are prepared to go to. Just filling it with gel resin is not a satisfactory solution.

All imho, of course.
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Old 26 June 2007, 02:26   #44
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hopefully yours hasnt but have a good look over the engine mounting and all the metal work structure for the engine.

i had a honda 90 and a dealer said they are prone to cracking around the mounting supports etc, mine was ok but have a good look over yours just to be on the safe side.
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Old 26 June 2007, 03:33   #45
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Hi Nos,

yep, but they dont appear to be moving enough - ill have another look tomorrow. I've never checked the fluids as i assumed they have during servicing so it probably a good idea to check ...

Mark
Just a thought,

my engine has an overtilt device,(so you can't trim to engine out to far) it's adjustable by the owner, is there any chance honda have one of these for avoiding timming in beyond a certain point ?
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Old 26 June 2007, 14:55   #46
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I have a split in the same place as you on my zodiac 4.2 ive just put gel coat on it and check it each time and hope the the outboard doesnt fall off.
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Old 26 June 2007, 17:23   #47
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update.......

Good news, sorted the trim out - nothing wrong with it i just stopped it early when a nosie started assuming that was as far as it would go - as opposed to letting it go all the way (so im a donkey!) but it does seem noisey

now that i have trimmed down I can confirm that the cavitational plate and the hull are aligned - basically the hull is only about 10mm lower - so i beleive this is fine - if i dropped the engine then it would end up about 10mm lower than the hull which I'm guessing is the worst option ?

I'm really glad about this and it makes sense as the boat does drive ok, always seems to trim out ok, but just seems to vent during manouvres more than i'd expect.

SO I DONT NEED TO MOVE THE ENGINE DOWN !!!!

I have also got hold of the original honda installation guidlines (so Nos im gonna PM you a copy) which seems to cover installation, size of prop, bolt torques, etc. I cant make sense of it yet but it will confirm (i think) if the props right or not, and if the bolts were too tight contributing to the crack!. It does state that top bolt holes should not be within 1" of the top of the transom - which this is not thankfully - but i cant imagine why a manufacture would only recommend 1" as this seems too little to me...

[Nos, if you get chance can you have a look at the stuff I'm sending you as it might help sort the props size - the last mechanical issue!]

I'm gonna plan to repair the fibreglass - I also like the idea of a plate - where could i get one made up from,do i need one inside and outside, and how would you seal it to the hull?

Cheers
Mark
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Old 26 June 2007, 17:31   #48
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Originally Posted by chris t View Post
I have a split in the same place as you on my zodiac 4.2 ive just put gel coat on it and check it each time and hope the the outboard doesnt fall off.
Hi Chris

How long has the gel coat lasted?
have you had to keep repairing it or just the once?
did you notice if the transom was hollow behind the crack and if so did you fill this with anything?

thanks Mark
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Old 26 June 2007, 17:38   #49
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Hi Chris

How long has the gel coat lasted?
have you had to keep repairing it or just the once?
did you notice if the transom was hollow behind the crack and if so did you fill this with anything?

thanks Mark
I think we put some gel coat on it about 3 months ago and so far it is still ok and has no cracks.
sorry can't remeber if it was hollow or not, we just pushed the gel coat in until no more would fit.
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Old 27 June 2007, 09:31   #50
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Advise on Transom Plate needed please

Hi Guys

thanks for the info about by zodiac transom issue. Looks like the trim/tile and engine height is ok so its a case that its poor design,etc

Like the idea of a transom plate - has any one done this?

currently the engine sits on a plywood pad. I assume I would remove this and fit over the plate or just discard it completely?

do you know where I can get them made up at a reasonable cost?

and how do you fix/seal these to the transom; apart from the 4 engine bolts?

any information appreciated as i need to get this ordered asap

thanks
Mark
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