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Old 21 August 2012, 15:10   #1
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zodiac 733 tube removal??

So I am getting ready to remove the tubes from my 733. they need to be patched and given a little TLC. What am I getting myself into? I see 10,000 bolts that hold them in. Are most of the mounting plates the same? do I start at the front, back, doesn't matter? How much stuff do I need to keep in order? It's military so I'm guessing it's pretty idiot proof.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 21 August 2012, 17:18   #2
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I have a Willard...I think that I have the same bolt pattern as you (I think that I know which rib you have.)

I labeled mine with sharpie when I took them off:

left outside: LO1, LO2, etc. stern to bow
left inside: LI1, LI2, etc. stern to bow
RO, RI...

I just wanted to be safe. My holes were not evenly space...there were sections that were and there were sections that weren't.

Not quite 10,000 but I think it's a little over 150. I remember buying bags of 25 bolts at West Marine and needed 175. If you happen to need new bolts (I did), don't be scared when you see ~$1.25/ bolt there...bags of 25 are ~$8.
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Old 21 August 2012, 18:22   #3
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Hi....Unlike the Willard, the Zodiac 733's I've seen have a rope encased in hypalon that slides in and out of an aluminum extrusion on the outboard side (Willards use thru-bolted flat bar) - so you shouldn't have to deal with any bolts on that side except perhaps a few that may hold the bow section if there is an anti-stuffing strap or hypalon flap. Inboard, they are held in place by 1/4" flat bar that is thru-bolted to stainless inserts epoxied in place.

Typically removal is easy - remove the inboard (and bow) bolts and flat bar then pour lots of soapy water into the aluminum extrusion from inboard for lubrication and pull the tubes off from the bow one side at a time. Getting them back on is sometimes more troublesome but is is the reverse process with more persuasion.
bryan
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Old 21 August 2012, 19:02   #4
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Sunrider, I believe it's a Zodiac but it has bolt on tubes. Bigtalljv, you picked this one up outside of Stockton, CA??? (correct me if I'm wrong)

Since have got no engine/outdrive, are you converting to outboards? If so, talk to RyanPratt. He says anything less than a full flotation bracket (not an Armstron or Porta Lift) will make it ass-heavy (just his opinion, but at least look him up on here and ask).

Attaches are pics of the boat I think you have. Again, correct me if I'm wrong!!!
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Old 21 August 2012, 20:40   #5
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yep, that's my boat!

It does indeed have bolts inside and out. Fortunately the bolts look to be in pretty good shape so I don't think I will have to get new ones. I guess it's not too much to do NCP's labeling routine.

I'm going with outboard(s). I have the plans, from Sunrider himself I believe, for the Zodiac aluminum bracket. I also have a very good fabricator locally so that's my direction right now. I have some other work in front of me first. They apparently used this boat to prove to the new kids there are no brakes on boats. It has hit quite a few things bigger or stronger than it.

Thanks,
Jason
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Old 21 August 2012, 23:26   #6
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Hi, a healthy dose of obsessive compulsive disorder helps!
Take lots of photos and label all of your retention plates as they are all (mine anyway) handmade.
Good luck, mine is hitting the water at the end of the month, the first time since the end of April.
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Old 29 August 2012, 22:24   #7
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OCD engaged, everything is labeled and the tubes are off. It's pretty easy actually. Remove all the bolts and they fall right off. Tedious, there are lots of bolts and all but one came out nicely. One fitting unscrewed with the bolt but it looks like it just screws back in with maybe some adhesive. I think Zodiac even used anti-seize when they assembled this way back when. I don't think the navy ever took the tubes off.

The question I have is that the little plates are all pretty seriously corroded. Some to the point they are split or have more than 75% thickness loss. I am planning on making new ones. I am guessing these lasted 25 years so AL is probably OK for new ones, no need to go stainless? I think drilling that many holes in stainless would be a bit tedious and I'm not gaining all that much.

Jason
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Old 30 August 2012, 00:08   #8
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The guy I bought my Willard from had made new ones. Seems like it's a standard size aluminum bar. I bet the aluminum will last (again) for quite some time, though, there will be some corrosion between the aluminum bar and the stainless bolts. For someone without a shop, aluminum would be way to go as you can use standard drill bits and saws.

I did have a friend redo his out of stainless and he said it cost him $400 in materials .... but he had access to a buddy's shop and did the labor himself. It looks great but I'm putting my money elsewhere in the boat.
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Old 30 August 2012, 17:43   #9
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Use 5000 series aluminum, and you shouldn't have much in the way of corrosion problems (bit more expensive, but if you're spending that much time drilling holes, well...)

Make sure you use anti-sieze or other corrosion inhibitor between the aluminum strip and the stainless bolt.

jky
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Old 30 August 2012, 18:36   #10
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If you have an interest, I have some unused 1/4"x1" 5086 aluminum flat bar somewhere in my shop that I cut and drilled holes for to fit tubes for a Willard 7m I was reconditioning, but never used. If you will let me know the quantity, dimensions and hole spacing required for your project I'll take a look and see how many I have and if they might fit...mine are all the same - about a foot long if I remember correctly........
bryan
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