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Old 13 June 2004, 17:02   #21
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Limeydal,

As promised some pics of the transom to help you set up your trailer. if you need any measurements, angles, etc, PM me.

Also some more pics of my new boat can be seen here.

New XS-600 / Merc Opti 150

No sign of yours in the shop, only a white and blue 550 with a 115 Mercury fourstroke.

Here are the pics, if you want any more let me know.
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Old 14 June 2004, 21:13   #22
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just the job!

swginn,
many thanks; those shots should do it nicely:especially the last one of the whole transom .They give a great feel of the deadrise on this boat.
What instrumentation did you get on yours? Was trying to make out the tubing on the transom.
Hope you are pleased with yours and you will have to post your first impressions of the boat(There's not many users out there yet and havn't seen any postings on this site)
So thanks again: trying to wait patiently for news of mine, but a while to go yet,but thanks for checking
cheers Dal
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Old 14 June 2004, 21:22   #23
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Country: USA
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OK must remember to check your link before I ask Questions!!!
Great Info; and photos .Seems everyone is eager to see how she performs.Glad to hear of yours and others experience with Barnet.Nice to see good customer service still exists.
cheers Dal
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Old 15 June 2004, 04:22   #24
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Country: Ireland
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Boat name: XS-600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeydal
They give a great feel of the deadrise on this boat.
Just measured the deadrise angle for you, it's 23 degrees.
Also the hull is a variable deep V and is actually a lot deeper towards the front of the boat, see pics on other link. It flattens out slightly at the rear to be more suited to sports use.

Also, you (and others) might be interested to read the review that RIB Int. did on the boat. 2 secs and I'll post it.
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Old 15 June 2004, 04:58   #25
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Here it is

Review of X-Rib 600 (now renamed XS-Rib 600 to avoid confusion with Rib-X) by RIB International

Quote:

It,s new and expected to sell large numbers thereby challenging other large volume producers of budget priced RIBs. It's built by an anonymous major British manufacturer of GRP "hard" boats and can be produced quickly to meet big demand. It's also very competitively priced and marketed by one of the most successful dealerships in the UK, What is it? Why, its an X-Rib. Not to be confused with either Rib-X Ribs or RIBEX of course (you're right it's confusing. At first glance you might be forgiven for thinking that this boat is a little similar in appearance to a Tornado. If so, it may not surprise you to learn that the same people, ie: Barnet Marine, are responsible for selling both brands. Apart from her general lines there are distinct differences between the two besides the facts described in my opening comments. Namely the X-Rib's hull, whilst being deep-vee, is not a constant deep-vee as in the case of the Tornado and hence flattens aft to be more suited to all-round sports use. It is though an exceptionally good hull in every way, soft riding, stable, grips well to the water and is well suited to Offshore as well as general family use. The layout is simple and uncluttered and though clearly built to a price, functional and well suited to the job in hand nonetheless. The X-Rib is wholly traditional in her makeup and design. In fact, it's honesty is clear in the sense it makes no pretensions about what it's about or what it sets out to achieve. Of course the X-Ribs design will limit its appeal almost exclusively to the British market, but then this evidently is not a problem to its sellers. Substantial 50cm polyurethane sponsons, high bow profile, good internal freeboard, a wide choice of colours, plenty of accessories/ customisation, big scuppers and strong fittings all add up to a genuinely desirable "no nonsense" style marine 4x4. Ok it may be pretty basic fare, with its flow coat non slip deck surface and basic console designs, but when all is said and done - it works! The ride is dry, the hull affords great performance coupled to the X-Rib's standard Optimax 115hp engine, the balance of the boat is spot on and to top it off, the helm position is just right - making the job of driving the RIB a rel pleasure. If performance and functionality come high on your list over and above style and looks, then this little "sea-goer" could be worth checking out

Thanks to brucehawsker for the copy of the review.
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Old 16 June 2004, 01:36   #26
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lettering ?

Are you thinking of putting any lettering on those new tubes?
Reason is ,I have hypalon lettering I was thinking of using on my new XS-rib but was unsure if better to go ahead and buy new in urethane(if available) Guess a coat of Polyurethane glue to seal the hypalon letters and a second bond coat to stick to tubes should do it.What do you think? Anyone have experience with lettering on polyurethane tubes?
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Old 16 June 2004, 05:43   #27
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i won't be putting any lettering on my tubes. I'm just going to put vinyl on the centre console and the outside of the transom as soon as I think of a name. I've no experience of gluing Hypalon, but the glue you need for polyurethane is Bostik 2402. Barnet Marine wil supply PU lettering in any colour you want or if you want to save a bit or be creative you can just get some of the PU and cut out your own lettering.

Instructions for gluing PU to PU are as follows:


1) THE AREA TO BE GLUED.SHOULD BE CLEANED WITH ACETONE, THIS CAN BE PURCHASED FROM ANY CHEMIST. ALSO CLEAN THE SURFACE OF THE PATCH THAT IS TO BE APPLIED. IF A RUBBER MOULDING IS BEING BONDED TO THE FABRIC IT IS BEST TO "ROUGH" THE SURFACE FIRST WITH SANDPAPER.

2) MARK OUT THE AREA ON THE TUBE THAT IS TO BE GLUED WITH MASKING TAPE, CUT THE PATCH TO SHAPE MAKE SURE BOTH SURFACES ARE CLEANED WITH ACETONE.

3) MIX THE GLUE IN THE PROPORTION PROVIDED AND APPLY A COAT OF GLUE TO EACH SURFACE TO BE BONDED. ALLOW THIS COAT OF GLUE TO GO TOUCH DRY THE GLUE USED SHOULD BE BOSTIK 2402

4) ONCE THE FIRST COAT OF GLUE IS TOUCH DRY APPLY A SECOND COAT AND ALLOW THIS TO GO TOUCH DRY.

5) ONCE THE SECOND COAT IS TOUCH DRY START APPLYING THE PATCH FROM ONE CORNER, AS SOON AS THE SURFACES MEET THE BOND WILL BE INSTANT SO ALIGNING THE PATCH FROM THE WORD GO IS IMPORTANT. RUB THE PATCH WITH A HARD SMOOTH OBJECT TO REMOVE AIR.

6) ALLOW 24 HOURS FOR THE GLUE TO CURE. CLEAN OF EXCESS GLUE USING ACETONE, ALLOW 72 HOURS FOR FULL CURING.

FOR BEST RESULTS A WARM DRY ATMOSPHERE IS IDEAL. THE PREPARATION WITH ACETONE IS ESSENTIAL FOR THE GLUING PROCESS TO WORK PROPERLY.

PLEASE EXERCISE CARE WHEN WORKING WITH ACETONE AND TAKE ALL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS NECESSARY
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Old 16 June 2004, 11:13   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by limeydal
Anyone have experience with lettering on polyurethane tubes?
If you go to the Sign shop at the bottom of Newhall street in Willenhall, they'll make you up an adhesive stencil. While you're waiting, walk 376 yards up the road to Boat and Jetski World and buy a tin of Hypalon paint. Walk back 362 yards, call in the cafe for a bacon and tom and by the time you've finished your stencils will be ready. Do not put any money in the RNLI tin. (JK told me to say this) Drive home via Sun street, call in the Great Western and drink three pints of Old speckled hen. This will help calm your nerves when you apply the stencil.

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Old 16 June 2004, 11:23   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidmanning
call in the Great Western and drink three pints of Old speckled hen...
Wow, culture and fine beer has reached the West Midlands.

I thought it was exclusively Banks's and "Lumphammer" territory up there!
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Old 16 June 2004, 11:29   #30
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Originally Posted by Richard B
Wow, culture and fine beer has reached the West Midlands.
Yeah, but the swinging scene isn't as good as Reading's. Limeydals from just outside the protected area so he isn't allowed access to proper beer.

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