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Old 23 March 2008, 13:51   #11
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Epoxy Resin
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Old 23 March 2008, 14:52   #12
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Originally Posted by Dirk Diggler View Post
Erm, don't seem to remember mentioning anything about gelcoat.
Erm, I don't seem to remember suggesting you did.
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Old 23 March 2008, 17:18   #13
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I'm ignorant about curing any rot, but I would use epoxy for sure to seal and not polyester. Check out West systems.
You really need to get it as dry as possible before you seal in any moisture. If you can gey some heat and a dehumid under a tent for a few days, probably well worth the effort.
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Old 24 March 2008, 11:47   #14
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Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.
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Old 24 March 2008, 11:57   #15
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Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.
jwalker, I haven't the first clue about wood so I won't ignore you! After talking to the joiners next door to me I do know that teak is almost impossible to get hold of these days. But if the wood is sheathed in resin or GRP I think using teak or teak faced wouldn't be necessary anyway.
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Old 24 March 2008, 12:12   #16
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A good alternative to teak, that you can treat would be straight grained white oak or birch. I use the oak. High tensile strength and you don't have to worry about finishing the edges as you do with marine ply.
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Old 24 March 2008, 12:13   #17
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Martini, I've just had a wee thought, since you were talking about teak. If you have in the boat or are going to use real teak, as in oily Burma teak, you may find that it is difficult to get proper adhesion to it unless it's thoroughly degreased and I seem to remember that the oil inhibits the curing of polyester resin if it's a thin layer.
Of course, you may already know this, in which case ignore me.
teak has a natural inbuilt oil, hence its marine usage...its also a bear on machine tool blades..........clean with acetone before gluing.

Teak is readily available if you know where to look ...it is one of the most expensive timbers though and most of your usual suppliers wont stock due to its price, last time i looked it was around 40 square ft O/S (offsaw)....Oak is around 12
some railway sleepers are teak and can get mixed in with oak ....a lot of furniture makers substitute it with Iroko .....which causes me to itch badly......for gluing teak etc they recommend gorilla glue which is polyurethene hence the need for cleaning with acetone first

I
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Old 24 March 2008, 16:23   #18
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You will get teak here ,www.atkinsandcripps.co.uk they have lots of branches and outlets.

the depot I use near to Plymouth sells lots of teak to marine projects / princess yatchs use it . Its expensive but for the amount you probably need its not going to break the bank .

Iroko is the nearest sunstitute .

From my experience PU glue isn't much use at all especially on oily woods like teak and iroko or even oak.

If anyone is in need timber machined to size I can help
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Old 24 March 2008, 16:39   #19
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But if the wood is sheathed in resin or GRP I think using teak or teak faced wouldn't be necessary anyway.
Agreed, the only reason I used it was because there is a chandlers in Gosport that sells offcuts cheaply. If your looking for packing pieces then strips of 12mm marine ply offcut would do just as well with a good coat of epoxy. Mine had so many holes in from all those brass screws there was no way to re-use them.

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