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Old 21 September 2010, 15:12   #11
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What Brad said, flowcoat will do the job.
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Old 21 September 2010, 15:15   #12
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Do I have to paint the whole hull or can I finish where the antifoul did (on the water line).
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Old 21 September 2010, 15:54   #13
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If you're planning on coating the entire area covered by the antifoul, I wouldn't recommend flowcoat. You'd be better off using a recognised marine paint. Flowcoat would be ok for covering the small areas of exposed GRP.
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Old 22 September 2010, 14:24   #14
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Thanks for the advice, I think I will continue to clean the hull up and try to keep the original gelcoat finish by repairing the scratches etc with flowcoat.

If it looks pants when Iím finished I can always paint it up to the water line
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Old 22 September 2010, 16:14   #15
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I've been renovating a Searider with serious gelcoat damage (see thread Searider 5.4 Project ).
Personally I prefer to replace "like for like" certainly if there are chips and gouges to flll or contours to rebuild.
You should not use polyester filler (car body filler) for these repairs as it is resin bulked up with powder which is hydroscopic, so again gelcoat is the way to go.
It looks from the pictures that you probably need to cover the whole of the hull as it will be impossible to blend in extensive gel repairs.
There are some great 2 pack paint systems available and you will probably be happy with the "out of the tin" finish where as re-coating with gelcoat (flowcoat) will require more work.
For gel to be successful it needs an excellent mechanical key so you need to be very thorough in your preparation and use a coarse grit to prepare. Gelcoat will stay tacky in air, flowcoat is gelcoat with a wax additive which rises to the surface during the chemical process and excludes the air allowing the gel to dry as it would in a mould.
The wax needs to be removed (acetone or sanding) before re-applying subsequent coats.
After extensive prep using gelcoat as a filler, I sprayed 3 coats of straight gel onto my prepared hull then finished it of with a final gelcoat with the wax added (flowcoat) to seal. Spraying gel is tricky and requires quality equipment but you can also apply with a roller and brush. Humidity and temperature are also factors so you need to do this indoors or at least under cover, same will apply to most paint systems.
Once applied gel/flowcoat will need an awful lot of flatting off with wet & dry and then polishing with a compound but I believe you get a better more resilient finish. See my thread and website for more info, I will be adding a lot more detail over the next few weeks.
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Old 28 September 2010, 09:59   #16
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Hi Col, thanks for the advice. I spent Sunday afternoon removing the rest of the antifoul and Iím going to spend this weekend trying out a few ideas.

Iíll be giving up smoking this Saturday so Iíll need to keep myself busy
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Old 02 October 2010, 13:50   #17
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Today went quite well, I sanded with 240 grit wet and dry and moved up the grades until 600 grit. I've still got a lot more sanding to do (up to 1200) and then polishing with some G6.

I ordered some international orange gel & flowcoat but the colour match is way out, so I think I've got the colour wrong?
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Old 02 October 2010, 14:02   #18
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Have you contacted avon to ask which pigment they use?
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Old 02 October 2010, 14:53   #19
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Just found this:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...ational+orange

As this is a 1990 it looks like its Tangerine Orange

Does anyone know the RAL or BS number for this?

Also any advice on where to get the fowcoat mixed would be great too
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Old 02 October 2010, 15:41   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whisper View Post
Just found this:

http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...ational+orange

As this is a 1990 it looks like its Tangerine Orange

Does anyone know the RAL or BS number for this?

Also any advice on where to get the fowcoat mixed would be great too
BS Number seems to be in post 2: http://rib.net/forum/showthread.php?...=tangerine+RAL
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