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Old 08 May 2006, 19:09   #11
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To be honest I doubt it - I expect you are talking a serious amount of $$ for something like that? I'd love it though

The boating fraternity here tend to be small in number and not all that rich, it is not difficult to ship RIBs from the UK, just expensive (a couple of grand) but in the context of the cost of a new RIB that is not too much - something like a new Humber or (dons hard hat and frantically starts digging trench for shelter) Leeway would be well worth the freight cost to ship down, just that older second hand ones don't make much sense as the freight still costs the same!

But basically it simply isn't a very popular pastime here - though having got a few hours under my belt I don't know why - I love it

Maybe partly because the facilities aren't good, basically if it breaks you fix it yourself or go without (same with many things) and storage/launching facilities are fairly limited.
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Old 08 May 2006, 19:09   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
...but it is all I have got/can get in this neck of the woods ....
Don't damaged vehicles get repainted in the Falklands? Cellulose thinners is good.

Remember I told you in another thread that it's possible to do what looks like a good repair but it may fail some time later? Your peel-off patch is an example of this. I hope your nail varnish remover doesn't put you in this category. You do have to do it properly if it's to last. Moisture is an enemy.
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Old 08 May 2006, 19:16   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwalker
Don't damaged vehicles get repainted in the Falklands? Cellulose thinners is good.

Remember I told you in another thread that it's possible to do what looks like a good repair but it may fail some time later? Your peel-off patch is an example of this. I hope your nail varnish remover doesn't put you in this category. You do have to do it properly if it's to last. Moisture is an enemy.
Cellulose thinners are no problem, can get those, but I was a bit wary of using anything like that in case it dissolved the tube! If you reckon cellulose is OK then I'll get some, I thought I read somewhere that it absolutely had to be solvent something-or-other but if you couldn't get that then acetone was the next best thing. I can't really see why you need them at all though, a freshly abraded surface is surely going to be as clean as you can get??

I do remember that. A few false starts and cock ups are better to happen now than when I embark on the big repair job
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Old 08 May 2006, 19:17   #14
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thanks for the quick reply Stephan - what you say makes perfect sense.
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Old 08 May 2006, 19:34   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BogMonster
Cellulose thinners are no problem, can get those, but I was a bit wary of using anything like that in case it dissolved the tube!
Use cheap standard thinners, often known as gun wash here cos that's what it is mainly used for. Use it when sanding, it swells the hypalon and allows the adhesive to penetrate better. It also makes hand sanding much easier....if you can keep the abrasive grit on the paper!

Use it for cleaning your tubes too. Wipe it over with one rag to remove the dross and then give another wipe to remove any smears. Seal it with 3 coats of floor sealer. The type used for quarry tiles or for putting on your lino floor. It's the stuff that's sloshed on and your mum dares you to walk on it for 15 minutes. Johnson's Klear is what I use here.
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Old 08 May 2006, 20:41   #16
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Please note that the solvent used by most manufacturers of neoprene based fabric is Toluene. It is less agressive than acetone and is used as a primer for glued joints. Suggest NOT using acetone, ( it used to be in nail polish remover but no longer is due to hazard problem) it can destruct some plastic materials and the fumes can cause your brain to sort of go funny. I used to be a production engineer in the auto airbag manufactuing industry, which uses hypalon type material. To properly prime joint surfaces you need two light coats of Toluene spaced about 10 mins apart and allow to dry for another 10 mins. before applying adhesive. Talc. powder is used to coat the rolls of fabric to stop them sticking together and this must be removed and the surface softened. If your follow this procedure you do not need to abrade the surfaces. Higher the amb. temp. shorter the time interval.
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Old 09 May 2006, 00:35   #17
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Don't think there is much likelihood of finding toluene here, sadly. What sort of shops would you buy it in? I have never seen it for sale anywhere that I can remember, though on the other hand I haven't really been looking so I may have passed over it, browsing racks of noxious chemicals isn't really something I do much while away on holiday.

The nail varnish remover I bought has acetone in it, because I checked the ingredients on several different types on sale and all had acetone in so I chose the one with the least other ingredients.

Gun wash thinners are good, we have both types (and 2K thinners) in the shop at work so that is easy to find

Thanks for the info
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Old 09 May 2006, 11:57   #18
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Mek?

I had good results with M.E.K. (Methyl ethyl ketone???) when i was preparing my patches and cleaning my tubes. I put it on a sponge and wiped vigorously and it works great. I know jyaski warns that you need to be careful with this stuff so as not to melt your hypalon so I think you need to be quick when you use it. Has anyone else tried it??
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Old 09 May 2006, 12:14   #19
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I can buy Toluene is hardware stores in the US, Home Depot etc. MEK will work but as already pointed out it is agressive as is acetone. MEK is very difficult to get and is illegal to sell retail in most countries as is causes liver problems as does Trichlorethlyene. The solvent/primer of choice by industry is Toluene.
regards.
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Old 09 May 2006, 15:53   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limey Linda
The solvent/primer of choice by industry is Toluene.
Linda, do a search using the word toluene and the name Manos.
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