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Old 20 August 2018, 02:22   #1
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Under deck trunking

So new boat, new under deck trunking to fit. As per the old boat I'll be running flexible conduit with custom made fittings at the ends to poke through the deck. Unlike the old boat, the new hull void drains into the rear well so can be easily emptied. The last hull had sealed trunking to prevent water entering the hull but over time, the inside of the trunking got damp and turned into a public health hazard. I'm considering putting perforated trunking in the new hull so it can dry out. What are people thoughts on this? Are under deck ducts usually sealed or draining?

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Old 20 August 2018, 02:35   #2
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Some form of pipe with smooth inside walls would be better perhaps than anything which has holes or is ribbed inside due to its fexible nature, point is at some point someone might want to run new cables through it for electrics, electronics or throttle, gear or hydralic lines and if the pipe or conduit isnt smooth it may be a job getting anything through.

and when installed make sure you run a line of some sort through more than twice its length to use for pulling other cables through in the future.
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Old 20 August 2018, 03:27   #3
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The conduit I have is smooth inside and no problem to add new cables to. Is just the gunk that grew in the last one was foul. My thought was that a few well placed drainage slits would allow moisture out and keep it a little cleaner in there.

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Old 20 August 2018, 05:19   #4
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So new boat, new under deck trunking to fit. As per the old boat I'll be running flexible conduit with custom made fittings at the ends to poke through the deck. Unlike the old boat, the new hull void drains into the rear well so can be easily emptied. The last hull had sealed trunking to prevent water entering the hull but over time, the inside of the trunking got damp and turned into a public health hazard. I'm considering putting perforated trunking in the new hull so it can dry out. What are people thoughts on this? Are under deck ducts usually sealed or draining?

Phil
my ribquest had land drain pipe the light weight stuff loads of holes in it to drain into the keel drain
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Old 20 August 2018, 09:53   #5
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Keep it smooth flexible (no holes) wider than you think you need it...incase you need to add stuff ...(and you will) with plenty of strong pull through cord (each end) then do your best to keep both ends high enough/sealed so water Ingress is minimised
Fairy liquid is a good choice to lubricate the cables and help ease to them through the conduit.

.....All I want in my keel/Hull is maybe a little dust....just to show me how dry it is
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Old 20 August 2018, 12:45   #6
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My anchor locker drained down the keel so didn't matter
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Old 20 August 2018, 17:00   #7
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my ribquest had land drain pipe the light weight stuff loads of holes in it to drain into the keel drain
personally i would go for land drain pipe as you only want a passage guide to keep it all together ,loads of perforation ,if water cant escape it will poison your boat with a stink ,
perforated pipe is avail in 75 100 annd 125 ,white blue or black i think ,May be able to get 150mm but it does get expensive in bigger sizes , if you go and ask a local farmer he will probhably give u a couple of metres i suspect ,it has ridges in the walls but nothing you wont overcome with a pull cord and insulating tape
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Old 21 August 2018, 01:47   #8
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I have a selection of twinwall pipes to choose from and I was planning to use the 2.5" electrical conduit and add a few holes. I'll be running 2 pipes as per the last boat. One feeds the engine harness, cables and fuel into the engine rigging pipe and the other will feed steering hoses, nav lights, antenna, bilge and sounder. No point in making the engine feed any bigger as the constraint is the hole into the engine and the auxiliary tube was plenty big enough on the old boat. It gives me the equivalent area of a 75mm pipe.

The ends will either be in the console or sealed as best I can to keep water out. Just got to figure out where to drill now.

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Old 21 August 2018, 07:11   #9
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Just had a thought. The destroyer deck is supported by two longitudinal stringers roughly 35cm each side of the center line of the boat. The central hull void is definitely drained but does anybody know if the outer voids also drain into the splash well? I was going to run the cables ducts there rather than pop up in front of the splash well. If the area isn't draining, I'll not drain the cable ducts.

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Old 21 August 2018, 15:50   #10
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Apologies, don't want to hijack your thread but got me thinking...anyone know if Ribcraft fitted trunking with drainage? My Tohatsu wiring when I rewired it last year was wet when I hauled it out. I've had the hull bung out, dry as bone. Over time water has probably entered via the witches hat rubber grommet on the deck. Wonder if I could run a tube into the trunking and pump it out?
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Old 21 August 2018, 17:29   #11
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Apologies, don't want to hijack your thread but got me thinking...anyone know if Ribcraft fitted trunking with drainage? My Tohatsu wiring when I rewired it last year was wet when I hauled it out. I've had the hull bung out, dry as bone. Over time water has probably entered via the witches hat rubber grommet on the deck. Wonder if I could run a tube into the trunking and pump it out?
Blow out with compressed air would be the way I would do it
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Old 22 August 2018, 06:00   #12
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Quote:
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Apologies, don't want to hijack your thread but got me thinking...anyone know if Ribcraft fitted trunking with drainage? My Tohatsu wiring when I rewired it last year was wet when I hauled it out. I've had the hull bung out, dry as bone. Over time water has probably entered via the witches hat rubber grommet on the deck. Wonder if I could run a tube into the trunking and pump it out?
No all solid Conduit.
This can be a problem when Ribbing in Really Rough weather...especially if you get one wrong and ship some Briney ....or on a mooring (uncovered) in really heavy rain for long periods when it can rundown control cables into said conduit.
The solution is to extend the "Witches Hat" via a sleeve (or suitable tubing) ....which then raises the point of entry,or indeed may seal it...and if you can do it in the case of a sleeve so that you adjust the angle rain can't run down either.....this is something I've seen on some Ribcraft Ribs but not all

As for pumping any residual water out... (which would obviously settle at the lowest point and this might be helped by Tilting the Boat up) an industrial strength water vac might sort if you improvise a nozzle to fit into it....or a better option I think it may be better idea to try blow it out (from the consul end again tilted)with a high pressure airline which would also dry it out
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Old 22 August 2018, 06:07   #13
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i made my own witches hat i found the bought ones soon leaked top filled with potting compound from RS supplies
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Old 22 August 2018, 08:13   #14
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[QUOTE I think it may be better idea to try blow it out (from the consul end again tilted)with a high pressure airline which would also dry it out[/QUOTE]

To be honest i dont think you would move alot of water with a high pressure airline ...........reminds me of blowing down the combine harvester after harvest ,if you used compressed air you would hire in a road compressor to get loads of volume at a high ish pressure ,would certainly sort your underdeck passages ,,,,,,However in latter years just picked up on the best of the modern ..Leaf blower ,loads of volume at higher than atmospheric pressure ,reckon that would blow it out ???
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Old 22 August 2018, 10:33   #15
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[QUOTE I think it may be better idea to try blow it out (from the consul end again tilted)with a high pressure airline which would also dry it out
To be honest i dont think you would move alot of water with a high pressure airline ...........reminds me of blowing down the combine harvester after harvest ,if you used compressed air you would hire in a road compressor to get loads of volume at a high ish pressure ,would certainly sort your underdeck passages ,,,,,,However in latter years just picked up on the best of the modern ..Leaf blower ,loads of volume at higher than atmospheric pressure ,reckon that would blow it out ???[/QUOTE]

No? Not even helping it down hill?
.....The leaf blower idea is not a bad oneCertainly works on a Cricket Pitch!
...It would help to have a seal of some kind whatever you'd use but a Big leaf blower (I've got a Backpack model) does pack a punch!...Best option is of course is seal it off properly in the first place!
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Old 22 August 2018, 12:26   #16
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Cheers guys, leaf blower, compressed air, neither of which I have!

Is there no merit in sucking out with some sort of hand pump and length of polythene tubing? besides, I need to get this to the entry hole in the console which is as tight as a gnat's chuff. The witches hat is all sealed up, as best I can, but it will still leak if submerged.
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Old 22 August 2018, 12:47   #17
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Probably worth a try with a thin house. A bulb type fuel transfer pump might do it and if it doesn't, it's only a few quid down the pan.

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Old 22 August 2018, 13:02   #18
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Cheers guys, leaf blower, compressed air, neither of which I have!

Is there no merit in sucking out with some sort of hand pump and length of polythene tubing? besides, I need to get this to the entry hole in the console which is as tight as a gnat's chuff. The witches hat is all sealed up, as best I can, but it will still leak if submerged.
The stirrup type pump sucks which you pump the boat up with if you have one
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Old 23 August 2018, 07:51   #19
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The stirrup type pump sucks which you pump the boat up with if you have one
No, I've got Bravo foot pumps.

£4 from Ebay! Will post up the pictures of the recovered liquid!
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Old 23 August 2018, 10:59   #20
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defo worth a go and ok for transferring fuel if not
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