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Old 14 August 2012, 19:15   #41
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Old traffic cones make good drogues but you'll have to drag it on a longish line for it to work proper .
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Old 14 August 2012, 22:45   #42
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Pete: PM on the way.

jky
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Old 16 August 2012, 03:06   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyasaki View Post
Hi Rokar;

The inflatable shop nearby (Sal's Inflatable Service) recommended cutting a fairly large (3-4") hole, and double gluing (inside and out) the patches containg the OPV's. Said the double fabric and double glue bond would make for a stronger installation.

That said, the design of the Leafield valves says specifically that it's meant to seal on a single ply of fabric. It would, I think, be tough to get the locking nut in through a just-large-enough hole though.

So, bottom line is, I have no idea. Pete Chandler have info on how his were installed.

jky
I have installed some Leafield A6 valves myself, check pictures:

Works fine, fairly small hole, push part 1 trough with a bit of soap, hold it with a string, clean off soap, screw together, done. Have done it on all 3 chambers, still no leaks and works perfectly
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Old 16 August 2012, 11:36   #44
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Bryan;

That was what I was planning to do, and what Sal specifically advised not to do. Not really sure why he insists a double thickness patch is the way to go, when Leafield states the design is for a single ply.

Thanks for the post.

jky
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Old 16 August 2012, 11:44   #45
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I thought, when it doesn't work, I can always make a patch.. But it is like it is originally manufactured Just try it! Piece of cake
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Old 16 August 2012, 12:28   #46
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Bryan, what made you choose the orange valve rated at 3.25-4.31 psi? Also what is your boats normal pressure?

At some point I really should consider putting some in my boat, but I can't figure out which release pressure is the correct one to use with a 3 psi tube inflation pressure?

Also did you find a good price somewhere? I found them for $18.95, so $56.85 with $10.92 for shipping (Total of $67.77).
http://rivergear.com/raft-inflatable...-leafield.html

The Rib Store has a great pressure chart here.
http://www.ribstore.co.uk/cms-assets...urecolours.pdf

As to putting a double layer on the inside I have seen it done by making a regular size small hole, then putting glue inside and on the patch, and rolling the patch into wax paper and inserting it thru the hole, then carefully unrolling it and carefully placing it into position before fully pressing it in place. Think arthroscopic surgeon.
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Old 16 August 2012, 13:50   #47
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Just order them at tidel.biz

Ask Paul what you need and put them in. That's what I did I got the A6 valves, they appear to be standard for ribs
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Old 18 August 2012, 14:44   #48
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Polaris specs my tubes at 2.5 psi. I think I bought the 2.7 psi valves. Also from Man of Rubber.

Bryan, thanks for your input. Might give it a go after the second half of abalone season ends. Or have Sal do it with his patch method. Dunno.

jky
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Old 18 August 2012, 17:08   #49
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I am surprised that you said that about the yam 115 2s, as my dive club in the UK has one and its a bril engine, runs very smoothly and never coughs or splutters, except for when it had blocked idle jets after pulling very small bits thro the filters from the tank.

It might be worth taking the carbs down and blowing out the very fine idle jets as in our case the rubbish got thro the main course water seperator and the fine gause filter under the cover. As this happened a few times we eventually cut a hole in the tank and cleaned it out, its never happened since. When we inspected the bottom of the tank it had sediment like tea leaves and even some water at the bottom. We now have a polycarbonate clear plate so can actually see into the tank and inspect it.

Our engine is a 1996 model and while its been very very well maintained is at times used hard at near full throttle pushing a loaded rib with up to 8 divers in.

Sadly we can't buy a new 2s like it in the UK due to the European anti pollution regs, shame!

Dave J
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Old 19 August 2012, 03:55   #50
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Problem comes from long engine runs at idle or just off idle. Some overheat from not enough water flow, some foul plugs from running cool.

The trolling plate allows higher rpm settings (restoring a more normalized condition at the powerhead) without increasing speed. Pete's buckets do the same thing.

jky
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