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Old 12 August 2012, 10:01   #1
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tube going down !!!

I have a section of tube which has started to slowly de-flate, there are no signs of damage
any where.
Whats the easiest way to find a leak, maybe its the valve letting by ???
Thanks
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Old 12 August 2012, 10:06   #2
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find a leak? use soapy water and watch for bubbles
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Old 12 August 2012, 10:43   #3
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Mmm, tried that, round valve and all seems.. No bubbles!!
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Old 12 August 2012, 11:03   #4
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Pump the tubes up to full pressure. Mix up a strong solution of washup liquid and water (25/75). Sponge the entire boat down (it's better on a damp day) and wait. Keep wetting down any sections that dry off - you'll spot where the leak is. Be aware that if the tube is leaking where it is bonded to the boat, the air might appear out anywhere, so pay attention to all areas.
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Old 13 August 2012, 11:24   #5
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Pump the tubes up to full pressure. Mix up a strong solution of washup liquid and water (25/75). Sponge the entire boat down (it's better on a damp day) and wait. Keep wetting down any sections that dry off - you'll spot where the leak is. Be aware that if the tube is leaking where it is bonded to the boat, the air might appear out anywhere, so pay attention to all areas.
Ok done this and found the leak....
Its on a seam at the rear of the tube on the underside, about 10mm of the overlap has started to come away and its slowly leaking from it.
Can I glue a strip of hypalon over the seam ? will this work ?
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Old 13 August 2012, 11:40   #6
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You could, but in practice it might be difficult to get it to stay down if its getting 'dragged' through the water at speed, does it look likely this may be the case ?
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Old 13 August 2012, 11:51   #7
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You could, but in practice it might be difficult to get it to stay down if its getting 'dragged' through the water at speed, does it look likely this may be the case ?
Yes, the other side has started to lift but is not leaking...
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Old 13 August 2012, 15:39   #8
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Yes, the other side has started to lift but is not leaking...
You'll need a long patch preferably triangular in shape then, pointing forward, is probably going to be your best answer.

You should be able to glue the seam and overlay it with the patch, in truth its still going to be awkward to get it applied though due to its position, there are plenty of tube boffins on here should be able to assist if they see the thread, with a method.

Have you identified what the material is ?
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Old 13 August 2012, 15:51   #9
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According to original paperwork it is hypalon...
Is it to risky to use before repairing? Was taking it on holiday at the weekend 😠
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Old 13 August 2012, 15:52   #10
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[QUOTE="brinky"]According to original paperwork it is hypalon...
Is it to risky to use before repairing? Was taking it on holiday at the weekend ...
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Old 13 August 2012, 16:09   #11
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[QUOTE=brinky;481448]
Quote:
Originally Posted by brinky
According to original paperwork it is hypalon...
Is it to risky to use before repairing? Was taking it on holiday at the weekend ...
Is it the join just at the end of the tube where the cone is on the end of the tube ?
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Old 13 August 2012, 16:10   #12
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ooops!!! posted twice, first attempt with the iphone app.....
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Old 13 August 2012, 16:15   #13
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Yes, there is still about 20mm attached before the edge of the main tube.
Is water likely to get in, or does the pressure keep it out?
Dont want to create a bigger problem...
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Old 13 August 2012, 16:29   #14
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If it's a forward facing seam, it's being dragged through the water with water pressure building in the loose flap. Think about what forces are involved, and what the result will be should the leaky flap fail completely. Then make your own call as to proceed or not.

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Old 13 August 2012, 17:15   #15
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It might hold, but might not if its the cone seam, Ive had one that failed and filled the entire port tube with sea water whilst under way, if your a good bit off shore, thats going to give you a big problem, depending on how your boat is rigged with flotation else where.

If the other side is looking poor too, I'd be cautious of any adventure, as you dont know what the weather will do. Not perhaps what you wanted to hear, but , if the glue is weak, you just dont know when the whole seam will fail completely. Many hulls will still run ok after tube deflation, but like I said, it depends on how your boat is rigged as to its performance in this state, and the weather attacking you.

In my situation, I had a leak at a seam on the bow a few days earlier which I repaired .. the port sponson leaked quietly on its own unbeknown to me whilst under way .. but as is often the case, if one seam is beginning to show signs of wear, others will do too
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Old 13 August 2012, 17:30   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brinky View Post
According to original paperwork it is hypalon...
Is it to risky to use before repairing? Was taking it on holiday at the weekend 😠
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmuz7 View Post
It might hold, but might not if its the cone seam, Ive had one that failed and filled the entire port tube with sea water whilst under way, if your a good bit off shore, thats going to give you a big problem, depending on how your boat is rigged with flotation else where.
Probably wise advice there from Bigmuz but:

(1) It sounds from your original post that it is a very slow leak? Many people go to sea with tubes which go limp within 24 hours. If they go limp within 1-2 hours that is a bit more serious.
(2) It depends where you are planning to go. There's a big difference between getting a blown tube 10 miles from shore, and a mile off a beach.
(3) If your boat has 5 tube sections then even if both the rear ones go you should be fine - although it won't make for a relaxing trip!
(4) If you are not confident that the baffles between tube sections are sound don't go a failure in the rear will quickly become flat everywhere.

Assuming the idea is to stop it worsening during use would some duck tape over the join serve as temporary protection to stop further erosion ?
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Old 13 August 2012, 19:31   #17
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I have been fighting one of these since i got the boat. Small leak on the underside of the stbd rear section.

In the absence of a reliable patch (never under estimate the force that 20+knots of water can exert) even after trying to build a leading edge with excess glue i have found the best solution so far is to keep the pump handy & use it as required.
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