I have been searching around the forum trying to find a description of how to fix the damage between the cone/tube joint on my searider 5.4. The area appears to have been repaired before, and came apart on my maiden voyage of this restoration project. I know the tubes are pretty beat up, and I am planning on replacing them next year, but I would like to keep them going through the summer. I saw the thread of putting in new stubbie tubes and it seems like a great fix, but I am hoping to do this inexpensively as I will likely scrap these tubes in the foreseeable future. I have made a sketch showing a detail of the damaged area.
Any help would be great!
I'm going to have to put in the exact same spot very soon. My tube isn't leaking yet but the grey outer to my rib skin has come off leaving the meshlike material.
Because of the area I was going to make the patch as big as possible to ensure the lip of the patch isn't being hit by the water. I've never done it before so no idea how it will turn out.
Does anyone know who I should contact about getting a patch?
Wow, thanks for all the help!
I spent a little more time investigating the damage and realized that the cone and the entire joint was in really poor condition. The cone-tube joint basically fell apart and looked like it had been glued before, and the cone had a layer of hypalon glued over the top which was completely delaminated. I have pulled off the entire cone, and started to clean up the bonding area. I am thinking of making a new cone by carefully tracing the old one's panels, and then bonding it into the tube. Before bonding it in, I am thinking of cutting out part of the tube which is damaged, and then using this as an access for the cone bonding and patching this last. Then adding a large V patch to finish it off.
Any advice, words of warning, or tips? I am aware to check the warp and weft of the new hypalon when patterning, and I have some clifton adhesive.
I tried and failed to glue a new cone end in mine. I wouldnt dream of trying it if I could get a grown-up to do it for me.
The idea is simple, but the reality is ending up with large parts of yourself glued to either the boat or the floor, leaving various bits of hair behind, swearing a lot and ending up with a bigger mess than you started...
A Boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by fibreglass, into which you throw money...
I've learned to do very difficult tbe repairs in very difficult circumstances (back deck of a boat at sea). If I don't get a fix I'll be unemployed so I have a very positive attitude to repairing toobs.
These are the most important tols for the job, as if the prep is right then the sticking is good and the job is good I'm hoping that the toobs are not delaminating by themselves as this is impossible to fix.
Using the old bits for a template is sensible as it would be too difficult to cut by eye.
i'll write the rest of the stuff later when i come off watch
Here it comes again, I don't stand a chance
Soul possession, Got me in a trance
Pullin' me back to you - Deja Voodoo
Thanks for the info so far!
I have gotten a sanding drum to attach to my drill with some 80 grit which works surprisingly well at preparing the surface. I will also get some toulene to prep before gluing. I am interested to learn about techniques to actually do the bonding, I know the required glue process, but i could use some tips in actually putting the pieces together, where to start, how to keep the parts from sticking to each other etc...
I have thought about inserting a beach ball into the tube a little forward of the repair and inflating it to keep the inside surfaces from sticking to themselves when collapsing?!