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Old 17 February 2003, 09:38   #51
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Country: Netherlands
Town: Hoorn
Boat name: skip
Make: revenger 25
Length: 7m +
Engine: mercury 250 pro xs
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Posts: 129
thanks

thanks for all your comments.
I hoped for some answers but I didn't expect so much replies.
I think I just try them.
Does anyone know a good brand (price/quality)?
Bennet? Trim Master? Lenco?

Again thank you all

(poor english language) Niels
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Old 17 February 2003, 09:40   #52
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black and white sucks sorrry

sorry
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Old 17 February 2003, 15:10   #53
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Niels

I don't know much about the different makes of trim tabs, but judging by that photo you ought to start by just triming the engine in!

John
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Old 19 February 2003, 05:05   #54
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Country: Netherlands
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Boat name: skip
Make: revenger 25
Length: 7m +
Engine: mercury 250 pro xs
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trim

thanks John, but this is not how she normaly runs. This was just for fun.
My problem is that at full speed(59knots) the boat is going from left to right bouncing(don't know the name for it).
I was told that for fast boats I have to place the tabs horizontaly.
Do you know anything about that?
It sounds strange in my ears.
thanks
Niels
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Old 19 February 2003, 05:36   #55
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Country: UK - England
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Boat name: Scorpion
Make: Scorpion 8.5mtr
Length: 8m +
Engine: 315hp Yanmar Diesel
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Tabs

Hi Niels

Basicly because the boat is light you are suffering from chine walking. Our old boat used to do this. To solve the problem Alan Priddy to a chain saw to the deck and we fitted larger fuel tanks in the bow. We turned a very bad humber into a good sea going boat. I 'm not sure how much effect you will get from trim tabs as the boat is obviously light.


Julian
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Old 19 February 2003, 11:05   #56
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Country: Netherlands
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weight

It weights about 1000 kg with motor etc. I don't know if that's light or heavy. I have already a 220 ltr tank in the midle of the boat, and am a little afraid to take a chainsaw. But thanks anyway.
Niels
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Old 19 February 2003, 16:25   #57
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Country: UK - Scotland
Make: HumberOceanOffshore
Length: 8m +
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Chine walking

A chine walk often happens when the boat is lifted high in the water, as it is at speed. Due to the natural rocking of the hull on the water, the engine leans over to the side and drives the hull harder to that side. The slightly tipped hull generates more lift on that side and it promptly rights itself. But, because of inertia, the hull travels past centre and onto its other side. The engine then falls over to that side and drives the hull also to that side. Lift is generated and the boat comes back but it now has a little more inertia and falls back over to the first side. This cycle is repeated and increases in effect at each oscillation. Anything which helps to keep the engine under control will be good. Very tight steering with as little as possible free play will help as will more rigid or even solid engine mounts. Solid engine mounts though are not really suitable for leisure use. As indicated in the previous posts, adding weight to the bow will increase the wetted area and this can increase the stability, but there is a limit. A nice straight hull with sharp, clean edges will also help.
JW.
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Old 19 February 2003, 16:53   #58
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wow

wow!
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Old 20 February 2003, 05:00   #59
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Boat name: Seascaper
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Length: 6.7
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I have recently test driven a 7.5m rib fitted with a transon lift allowing a 7 inch stroke limit. Out at sea in a 2ft wave height there was no noticable difference in performance in the 50 - 55 mph top end range. In the sheltered confines of the harbour a small amount of hull lift was noticed at around 53mph

With reference to trim tabs, if you replace your old manual "pull out the peg and drop it overboard", with an outboard with electic trim you will not need to fit trim tabs. Go for a 50hp Yammy and your Flatacraft will go like a rocket.
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