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Old 24 January 2007, 18:28   #1
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Transom wet internally

Just had a ping pong ball auto drain fitted (supplementing an elephant trunk)
and the guy who did it said the transom was 'wet internally' so he couldn't glass the hole to seal it. He used Sikaflex instead.

Q1. Is cured Sikaflex a decent seal?

Q2. I'm told the transom isn't rotten and is not likely to fail any time soon. It's got me worried though - How will I know when it becomes dangerous? No facetious answers please...

Q3. Can I do any DIY remedial action on the transom?- painting, sikaflexing around the steel outboard mounts etc? Any one else had this happen? The boat has not been in the water for 3 months, so it's about as dry as it'll ever be.
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Old 24 January 2007, 18:35   #2
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Quote:
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Q2. I'm told the transom isn't rotten and is not likely to fail any time soon. It's got me worried though - How will I know when it becomes dangerous? No facetious answers please...
Damn. I was just going to say "when you hear a crack and a splash and turn around to see a hole where the engine used to be"

Sikaflex is a sealant/adhesive but whether it will stick to soggy wood I don't know, doubt it though?
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Old 24 January 2007, 18:40   #3
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I,ve had no experience of tramsom repairs But know about wood.The wood will swell when wet and if glassed both sides it is posible it can crack the fibre glass.The wood will go rotten by drying then getting wet drying then getting wet etc.An example The Mary Rose.And a garden fence post always goes rotten at the point it goes in the ground but not where its wet in the ground.You will i think not be able to dry it out so any harm is done now.perhaps the engine bolts were never sealed and this is were the water got in .If it stays wet the deteriation will be very slow years.So perhaps you dont need to worry so much about it .What hull is it.And what size outboard hang on it
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Old 24 January 2007, 18:45   #4
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Stikaflex is a good seal it wont stick to wet wood but will dry forming a skin then when dry put another layer on sticking onto both edges of fibreglass that should do it.
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Old 24 January 2007, 18:51   #5
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What hull is it.And what size outboard hang on it
Delta 5.5m deep v, 90Hp 2strokeMercury

I'll leave the Sikaflex for a week, then lather on another load then.

Plus get someone to watch the transom for flexing when I put the power on.

Good news from other threads is I haven't noticed any cracking around the mounting plate or deck joins.

Extra engine insurance - is there a way of attaching a safety strap to the outboard or should the steering gear hold it should the worst happen?
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Old 24 January 2007, 18:59   #6
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I would say if you can see it flex visially start to worry but i,m sure you wont.as far as securing if you have an a frame use a 10 mm plastic coated wire used for moped bikes to lock them up if it gives you peice of mind.
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Old 24 January 2007, 22:54   #7
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Get it stress tested dude, put your mind at rest. There are loads of things that you can do to make sure.
Start with checking your insurance cover!!!!!!
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Old 25 January 2007, 11:06   #8
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A photo would be good. Any cracks around the top of the transom that might let water in, or around the elephants trunk so the problem is just at the bottom of the transom. Are the engine bolts sealed ? and is the wet though both layers of ply or just one? (there is a layer of GRP between the two)

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Old 25 January 2007, 15:50   #9
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Picking it up on Sat - I'll put some photos up at the weekend.
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Old 28 January 2007, 14:32   #10
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Panic over!
A more accurate description would be 'slightly damp at most'.
After reading some of the horror stories on here I had visions of water and wood pulp pouring out of the drilled hole - however, it transpires that there was 'a bit of steam' coming off the drill bit - I suspect there was a small amount of standing water that wasn't mopped up before drilling...The core was 'dry the following day.'
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Old 28 January 2007, 15:50   #11
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Quote:
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Q1. Is cured Sikaflex a decent seal?
Yes, excellent! should keep the moisture in nicely!
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