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Old 19 June 2008, 11:26   #21
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This thread is out of control.

Stephen asked a theoretical question...

Could we revert to 'cutting a hole in a console' to take a tow rope!
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Old 19 June 2008, 11:26   #22
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Originally Posted by Rogue Wave View Post
It's possible I may be thining of the wong stuff when I call something Nylon rope I mean the blue 3 strand polyprop rope. I don't see much give in that and I certainly don't have a problem towing with that!

To go back to the tractor and trailer freefalling down the slipway to go subse a submarine state then reentering the atmosphere like a leviathon from the deep then I hope the launchee was banned along with the nylon rope. It strikes me as a case of very bad practice that the rope wasn't set up to be controlled properly. Must have been funny after the fact though!
HI R.W the boat poped out the tractor stayed put,thing is we have all types of boats from 13ft speed boats to yachts to 6 ton fishing cobles using the slip , the blue3 strand poly rope is not too bad and is much safer than nylon ,we were told to use polysteel rope by the insurance co ,its got no steel in it but goes dead if it parts ,
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Old 19 June 2008, 12:45   #23
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Originally Posted by prairie tuber View Post
Nylon rope is a huge no-no for any sort of towing or recovery - just as it is never to be used as a waterskiing rope. Use polyproplene or polyethylene rope.
That depends on whether you want something with a bit of "give" or something which will go bang tight and break something expensive. Anybody who has ever seen a 4x4 trying to "take a bit of a run to shift something" on the end of a dead tow rope, or worse a steel cable or chain, will know what I mean. There are plenty of stretched chassis around here to tell the story and all my on shore tow ropes are 24mm nylon

I would certainly say that anybody using nylon should be aware of the properties of it though, as has already been said it can catch the unwary completely by surprise.

I also have a mooring compensator similar to this

http://www.marinemegastore.com/produ...-PLA_16585.htm

which I bought and have never used so I think that might find its way into a tow line as it seems like it might be a good idea - I messed around with it when I got it and it does give a very progressive take up of the strain.
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Old 19 June 2008, 12:54   #24
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Also just out of curiosity what sort of "bollard pull" (if I had a bollard!) would a typical 115hp outboard achieve? I guess it depends a lot on the prop pitch and revs achieved but I just wondered what a typical figure might be -
That's an interesting question. The fellows here might be able to answer that a bit better...

http://www.boatdesign.net/forums/
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Old 19 June 2008, 13:23   #25
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Nylon rope is a huge no-no for any sort of towing or recovery - just as it is never to be used as a waterskiing rope. Use polyproplene or polyethylene rope.
Polyprop WILL break your transom if there are any sudden snatch loads.

Try towing a car with a wire rope and you will know what I mean about snatch loads.

Climbing ropes are stretchy to absorb impact and stop the anchors ripping out.

Nylon rope is essential for towing in rough seas - put a weight in the middle and it will stop any sudden jerks if a fitting breaks.

This video clearly shows how much snatching occurs during towing.



And to see a big mismatch in towing sizes

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Old 19 June 2008, 14:48   #26
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IF you are setting up a boat for towing, then placing to point a near to the centre of gravity will assist with manoverability, and stability of the towing vessel.
If you are worried about the strength of transom then either rope is to big or eye bolt is to thick. To me it is better to break either one of these than the transom. Apply power gradually but remember outboards are designed for top end speed as opposed grunt power, You dont need that much power to move a large vessel. Try leaning on a 70ft vessel along side a quay. it will move.
A few years ago there was a fishing boat that slowed a large tanker from running ashore near torquay during a gale. it held it for a while till a large tug arrived.

Choice of line to use depends on the job in hand, On tugs nylon/ polyprop mix is common as are nylons less so now days though. The important thing is not to exceed breaking strain, Frays and knots all weaken lines, Lots of line for towing astern for me
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Old 19 June 2008, 14:51   #27
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If the rope is snatching let more out
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Old 19 June 2008, 18:58   #28
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Transom strength, rope material and how it is rigged up to one side for a minute.

Conditions on the day are crucial. This could have ended up far worse.

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Old 19 June 2008, 22:58   #29
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That looked nasty. They should have trailed some warps behind the boat being towed in those conditions.
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Old 20 June 2008, 04:14   #30
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That looked nasty. They should have trailed some warps behind the boat being towed in those conditions.
your right codprawn even on old car tyre would have done or a fender to act as a drogue we once had to tow a fishing boat back in in conditions nearly as bad and we used a lifering on the end also proves in the video why you need to tow with a long line apart from adusting to the swell and waves its saves the boat running into the back of the towing boat.
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